[RCM78]

My local dealer sells Audiotech Fischer. I bought the amp MEC Analog card and 1.9 harness from them. Bimmertech sold me the mounting bracket.
Install was pretty straight forward.

I downloaded the car set up file from Audiotech Fischer so all the routing was done.

Measurements were done with a MiniDSP UMIK-1 calibrated microphone.

The tuning I've done so far was very effective at filling in the low mid and sub frequency's the factory system is missing. I still have the factory HK speakers installed.

I moved the correlated pink noise file from Helix DSP PC-Tool to my phone and played it through the system via car play.

I used Tune-EQ to flatten the response of the input signals one channel at a time. I also used the EQ'd speaker response to set my crossovers.

Once the input signals were flat and crossovers set, I moved to the output section.

Using the ATF Daily House Curve I used Tune-EQ to match each channel to the curve.

The only manual adjustments I made were cutting the center channel by 5db and boosting the subs by 3 db.

Lastly, I ran pink noise through the entire system and checked it against the house curve. It's dead on. I didn't expect that.

At moderate volume the system sounds correct. At loud volume the door speakers are reaching their excursion limits. I have them crossed at 200hz.

The factory subs are decent midbass drivers but theres little energy below 60hz. I have the hi-pass set at 200hz.

All slopes are set at Butterworth 24db/octave to minimized phase cancellation.

With the factory drivers installed I don't see the point in going any further. The system sounds 10X better than before but a speaker upgrade is definitely necessary.

Next steps are to figure out what speakers to use. I'm leaning towards the Morel IR-BMW42's for the doors and IP-BMW42 for the center channel. I dont think I'll bother with the rear or fill speakers. Probably just turn them down 10db.

The underseat subs are a weak point for sure. I like the new Helix Compose Ci5. But, I wonder if the Ci7's would be better tuned as a midbass driver?

Lastly, a sub in the trunk. I like those side stealth enclosures you can buy on Ebay. The seller told me a JL Audio 10W6 would work well.

I'll treat the doors, trunk, and speaker surrounds with sound deadener along the way.

I have a question for anyone that knows...
Once I replace the speakers and add a sub in the trunk, can the system with the factory wiring be tuned as a three way system? I'd like to tune the tweeters, mid-drivers, mid-bass drivers, and sub separately.

One last detail. I was able to tune the system with my mac using Parallels.

[JJKiii]

Wow, congrats on taking all this on and sounds like good results. How did you do the time alignment? Did you check the box for “Dynamic Bass Enhancement” (DBE)?

I got my amp from BimmerTech and also their underseat woofers, left the remaining speakers stock. Was supplied various tune files to try and settled on one but added a 3db boost with DBE.

Was told by their tuning wizard Maciej that this is a challenging system to tweak since the input to the Match UP 10DSP is not a clean signal, it's the output from the stock amps.

Sorry but can't help with your questions, good luck!

[RCM78]

Originally Posted by JJKiii

Wow, congrats on taking all this on and sounds like good results. How did you do the time alignment? Did you check the box for “Dynamic Bass Enhancement” (DBE)?

I got my amp from BimmerTech and also their underseat woofers, left the remaining speakers stock. Was supplied various tune files to try and settled on one but added a 3db boost with DBE.

Was told by their tuning wizard Maciej that this is a challenging system to tweak since the input to the Match UP 10DSP is not a clean signal, it's the output from the stock amps.

Sorry but can't help with your questions, good luck!

I haven’t time aligned anything yet. I’ll go through a complete tune after I replace the speakers.
Just placed the order for the sub stealth enclosure from visual ice on eBay.

[I800C0LLECT]

If you time align that should help the mid bass quite a bit. I don’t think you can treat it as a 3-way since the tweeter and mid are working off the same signal. But, tweeters play such short wave lengths…use the midrange as the measurement for time alignment and it should be fine.

Overall i agree, stock system is actually very good. Weak points are no dedicated subwoofer and lack of real crossover between mids and tweeters.

[phc77]

Originally Posted by RCM78

I have a question for anyone that knows...
Once I replace the speakers and add a sub in the trunk, can the system with the factory wiring be tuned as a three way system? I'd like to tune the tweeters, mid-drivers, mid-bass drivers, and sub separately.

I have the same car and the Match UP10.
For now, you need to concentrate on the subwoofer. I think you need at least a 30 cm subwoofer in this car. Good bass is necessary for the system to reproduce the midrange correctly.
The 10 cm HKs are very, very good, but at very high volume, it's as if they didn't have a high-pass filter; I cut them at 331 hz. I have Ci3s to replace them in case they are destroyed, but I prefer to keep them for now as they sound really good.
Switching to Morel or another brand could lead to disappointment because there's no room in the door.
Don't rush to change the 20 cm under the seats either.
First the subwoofer, then the 20 cm if necessary. Knowing that there's not much room there either, I think the Ci3 in 2ohm would make more sense than the Ci7 which has a lower Fs but will need more space..
It's very easy to switch to a front three ways fully active with this amp. We'll talk more about this when the time comes, but the subwoofer should be your priority.

[RCM78]

Originally Posted by phc77

I have the same car and the Match UP10.
For now, you need to concentrate on the subwoofer. I think you need at least a 30 cm subwoofer in this car. Good bass is necessary for the system to reproduce the midrange correctly.
The 10 cm HKs are very, very good, but at very high volume, it's as if they didn't have a high-pass filter; I cut them at 331 hz. I have Ci3s to replace them in case they are destroyed, but I prefer to keep them for now as they sound really good.
Switching to Morel or another brand could lead to disappointment because there's no room in the door.
Don't rush to change the 20 cm under the seats either.
First the subwoofer, then the 20 cm if necessary. Knowing that there's not much room there either, I think the Ci3 in 2ohm would make more sense than the Ci7 which has a lower Fs but will need more space..
It's very easy to switch to a front three ways fully active with this amp. We'll talk more about this when the time comes, but the subwoofer should be your priority.

I will be installing a JL 10w6 sub in a trunk stealth enclosure. Not quite 30cm but it’s a quality sub.
That’s my next step before I go through a full tune. Honestly though, I don’t like the HK tweeters. I find them harsh, so a speaker upgrade is necessary to me. I also intend on converting the front to an active system for more control. Any advice you have on that is more than welcome.

[m440i804]

Originally Posted by RCM78

My local dealer sells Audiotech Fischer. I bought the amp MEC Analog card and 1.9 harness from them. I [...]

What’s the best price for the listed items? Can you message me your dealers name? Can you post any pics of install? Mostly amp mounting?

[RCM78]

Originally Posted by m440i804

What’s the best price for the listed items? Can you message me your dealers name? Can you post any pics of install? Mostly amp mounting?

The dealer is Bumper to Bumper in Freehold NJ. I don’t remember the price but it was cheaper than crutchfield.

[RCM78]

Has anyone found a solution to the louder system gong, turn signals, and prompts with the MatchUp 10DSP?

[phc77]

Originally Posted by RCM78

Has anyone found a solution to the louder system gong, turn signals, and prompts with the MatchUp 10DSP?

Have you already looked here :

[RCM78]

Originally Posted by phc77

Have you already looked here :

Oh yeah, turned them all the way down.

[RCM78]

Started gathering everything I need to upgrade the speakers. Plenty of soundskins material and a speaker ring kit.
Morel IR-BMW42's for the front and rear. Placed an order today for a pair of TM8's from Stereo Integrity. Underseat enclosure spacers, and finally a bunch of panel clips since I've heard they break easily.

Gonna need a weekend to get this done!

[m440i804]

Originally Posted by RCM78

My local dealer sells Audiotech Fischer. I bought the amp MEC Analog card and 1.9 harness from them. Bimmertech sold me the mounting bracket.
Install was pretty straight forward.

I downloaded the car set up file from Audiotech Fischer so all the routing was done.

Measurements were done with a MiniDSP UMIK-1 calibrated microphone.

The tuning I've done so far was very effective at filling in the low mid and sub frequency's the factory system is missing. I still have the factory HK speakers installed.

I moved the correlated pink noise file from Helix DSP PC-Tool to my phone and played it through the system via car play.

I used Tune-EQ to flatten the response of the input signals one channel at a time. I also used the EQ'd speaker response to set my crossovers.

Once the input signals were flat and crossovers set, I moved to the output section.

Using the ATF Daily House Curve I used Tune-EQ to match each channel to the curve.

The only manual adjustments I made were cutting the center channel by 5db and boosting the subs by 3 db.

Lastly, I ran pink noise through the entire system and checked it against the house curve. It's dead on. I didn't expect that.

At moderate volume the system sounds correct. At loud volume the door speakers are reaching their excursion limits. I have them crossed at 200hz.

The factory subs are decent midbass drivers but theres little energy below 60hz. I have the hi-pass set at 200hz.

All slopes are set at Butterworth 24db/octave to minimized phase cancellation.

With the factory drivers installed I [...]

I’m about to add amp to my 22 m440, but I don’t see the hk booster module. Most pictures I have seen show the ram unit and booster module one above the other just behind the carpeted cover.

Can anyone tell me where the booster might be located?

Thanks

[phc77]

On G22, RAM on the side, Booster on the ground

[phc77]

On the ground = on the floor

The booster is located just below the small storage box containing the key and wheel lock.

[quatec]

Originally Posted by RCM78

Has anyone found a solution to the louder system gong, turn signals, and prompts with the MatchUp 10DSP?

I’ve upragded Basic sytem to matchUp 6dsp plus Helix Ci5 and Ci3.
Also have silmiliar problem with system sound and additionally with fake engine sound which are unbearable.
I’ve lowered imput signal voltage in DSP its much better but at the cost of amp power

[phc77]

Originally Posted by quatec

I’ve upragded Basic sytem to matchUp 6dsp plus Helix Ci5 and Ci3.
Also have silmiliar problem with system sound and additionally with fake engine sound which are unbearable.
I’ve lowered imput signal voltage in DSP its much better but at the cost of amp power

Signal Detection Sensitivity (on the left) should not be modified, as it generates accessory noise.
Advanced Gain Setup should be used to manage gain.
Then ISA.
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/k...P-PC-Tool/isa/

ASD must be deactivated, no solution offered by BMW (see Bimmertech). ASD is hidden in the audio stream between 100 and 250hz.

[RCM78]

Like PHC77 says.
Buy Bimmercode and the OBD adapter to turn off the fake engine noise. It's called ASD in Bimmercode.

As far as system sounds, They are going to be louder.