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      11-10-2020, 01:36 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW11 View Post
update- Today I installed the NEO to cigarette socket, the the (supplied specially spliced and made by vendor) spliced 3 wire output cable from the NEO to the Viofo and I have multiple problems.
The Viofo will not go into parking mode; the Viofo is not automatically recording when I start the car; the NEO charged to 100% but does not say it has any usable charge for some reason...and doesn't give Viofo power when I turn car off and never goes into parking mode. I have no idea what is wrong or if I am doing something wrong. The cam records when I put it on manually and works fine but I have to turn Viofo off and on a couple times manually to get it to record. I have no parking mode working and thats why I bought the NEO. Something is not working and I have no idea what the problem is. It is very frustrating I thought this would of been an easy installation thats why I went this way instead of black view 900X with LTE Module and hot spot,,, Let me know if you have any ideas what I should do? thank you
Which Viofo did you buy? I've heard of the A129 having problems with Neo where many people have the same issue as you (not going to parking mode, not recording automatically).
My knowledge is very limited but I'll try help as much as I can. Let's start from the basics first. Do you have pictures of how you've wired the spliced cable to your neo?
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      11-11-2020, 02:02 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VipinLJ View Post
Which Viofo did you buy? I've heard of the A129 having problems with Neo where many people have the same issue as you (not going to parking mode, not recording automatically).
My knowledge is very limited but I'll try help as much as I can. Let's start from the basics first. Do you have pictures of how you've wired the spliced cable to your neo?
Good afternoon VipinLJ- thank you for your appreciated advice. Im having more multiple problems now besides parking mode... this is a picture of the Spliced Output Cable that vendor provided me please note the tags on the wires and the colors- does this look correct to you? thanks.

the top picture is the cable coming from the Viofo A129 Pro and the bottom picture is the cable coming from the Cellink NEO

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      11-12-2020, 10:16 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by BMW11 View Post
Good afternoon VipinLJ- thank you for your appreciated advice. Im having more multiple problems now besides parking mode... this is a picture of the Spliced Output Cable that vendor provided me please note the tags on the wires and the colors- does this look correct to you? thanks.

the top picture is the cable coming from the Viofo A129 Pro and the bottom picture is the cable coming from the Cellink NEO

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Ahh. So you do indeed have the A129 Pro. Unfortunately, like I mentioned before, a lot of people who are using that with the NEO have the same issues as you. I don't think they've found a fix for it yet. I'm not 100pc sure though.
I'll check mine tomorrow and see how they are labelled and get back to you
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      11-12-2020, 11:52 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by VipinLJ View Post
Ahh. So you do indeed have the A129 Pro. Unfortunately, like I mentioned before, a lot of people who are using that with the NEO have the same issues as you. I don't think they've found a fix for it yet. I'm not 100pc sure though.
I'll check mine tomorrow and see how they are labelled and get back to you
The vendor is sending me another spliced cable kit, they suspect the cable is the issue. Hopefully it will fix problems. Thanks
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      11-13-2020, 04:12 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by RSnic View Post
You mounting looks terrific!!

Did the hardwire kit for your camera have a "brick" -- a step down transformer from the 12v to something less?? If so, how did you handle that? The reason I'm asking is that I just got a VioFo A129 Pro dashcam and its hardwire kit has one of those "bricks" (albeit fairly small)?
You sure that brick isn't an inline fuse holder? Or maybe a ferrite RF reducer? I can't remember seeing any auto accessories like these have a step down transformer, as most are naturally designed to use 12v.
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      11-13-2020, 06:08 PM   #94
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Am pretty certain it's a small transformer stepping 12v down to 5v -- it's printed on the face label
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      11-13-2020, 11:06 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by BMW11 View Post
The vendor is sending me another spliced cable kit, they suspect the cable is the issue. Hopefully it will fix problems. Thanks
Let me know how that goes. I couldn't check it out today since I was swamped. I should be able to do it tomorrow hopefully!
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      11-17-2020, 05:15 PM   #96
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What does fuse 71 control on a G20
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      11-18-2020, 10:58 AM   #97
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What does fuse 71 control on a G20
Ambient lighting.
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      11-18-2020, 06:07 PM   #98
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Had the dash cam working and then it stopped. I have yellow constant wire into fuse 38 and red accessory wire into 71 using piggyback fuse holders. I have Blackvue 900x with hardwire kit. The inline fuse on hardwire kit reads 12v for the yellow wire when tested with multimeter but the inline fuse for the red wire only reads 1 volt. However when I put the blade fuse back into slot 71 which powers the red wire and test the fuse I get 12v. Any ideas folks.
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      12-12-2020, 03:53 AM   #99
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Used Joedeejay diagram of always on and ignition on fuses. I picked 38 for always on and 54 for ignition on. Both these are unused in my car. I turned parking mode off so that it would not record in my garage at night. It worked great for a month. Camera would switch off after about 15 minutes when the ignition on fuse went dead. But now the dash cam has started staying on all the time. If I take out the piggyback fuse from 54 it then switches off. So it appears that 54 is remaining live now for some reason. 38 has no effect since parking mode is switched off. Any thoughts or advice on this one.
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      12-13-2020, 09:32 AM   #100
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Poor response folks. Update. Fuse 54 has now returned to going off within 5 to 10 minutes of switching off ignition. But two days ago it stayed live for 5 hours after ignition was switched off.
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      12-17-2020, 05:37 AM   #101
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I've hard wired in to fuse 59 the Aukey front and rear dash however it has really effected DAB reception. Even if I unplug the rear and just have the front powered on. Has anyone else had this?
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      03-16-2021, 03:50 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd_dracula View Post
Does anyone know where the location of the "FB Front Right" fusebox is on the G20s?
I am assuming driver's footwell? Car is RHD

Fuse 46 works perfect, times out after a couple minutes. Thanks!
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      06-02-2021, 04:44 PM   #103
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Some good info here, thanks all.. although everyone seems to be using different fuses for switched.

One question, why are people routing down the passenger side (left side I’m U.K.) when the fuses used are on the right… is there any logical reason nobody’s running down the right hand side to fuse box?!
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      07-26-2021, 09:46 AM   #104
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I installed a Vantrue N4 3 camera set up in my G20 this past Saturday. Used F38 with a fuse tap that has a 5A to be able to have power for parking mode. Run the ground wire to the bolt for the air bag. Car sat for 2 days and the low voltage message came up on start up this morning. I ended up unplugging the both the main camera and the the fuse tap from F38. This is the hardware kit that came with the camera set up. I didn't move the switch on the transfer control box. I left it on what ever the setting was out of the box. I am thinking that might be the reason. But not sure. What would be the better option to have it switch to? 12v/24v or 11.6/23.2v?
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      07-26-2021, 01:41 PM   #105
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I've been running the setup I mentioned a few pages back for a while now (basically since the day I posted that). Car has spent days in my garage without being started or even opened (for upto three weeks in a row). No low battery issues or anything else. Been working perfectly. And it records every time the garage door is opened too. So yes.
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      07-26-2021, 03:22 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VipinLJ View Post
I've been running the setup I mentioned a few pages back for a while now (basically since the day I posted that). Car has spent days in my garage without being started or even opened (for upto three weeks in a row). No low battery issues or anything else. Been working perfectly. And it records every time the garage door is opened too. So yes.
I ended up changing the setting on the transfer module to see what that does.
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      07-27-2021, 12:03 AM   #107
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I ended up changing the setting on the transfer module to see what that does.
What did you set it to?

Your module only has 12v and 11.6v. I'd do 12v. Mine had a couple more. I think I've set mine to 12.4v. Can't remember for sure.
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      07-27-2021, 06:11 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VipinLJ View Post
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Originally Posted by mikeyb74 View Post
I ended up changing the setting on the transfer module to see what that does.
What did you set it to?

Your module only has 12v and 11.6v. I'd do 12v. Mine had a couple more. I think I've set mine to 12.4v. Can't remember for sure.
I set it to 12v from 11v. Hopefully that corrects the low voltage at start up.
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      09-21-2021, 01:32 AM   #109
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Is there any reason I'd ever use a slot (is that what they're called?) that's occupied by an existing fuse already when there appear to be so many empty unused slots in the car? It seems to me like using an empty one should always be better, since you won't modify the existing circuit (no chance that the add-a-fuse isn't working properly and somehow blows the existing fuse, or that you accidentally connect the two fuses in series rather than in parallel).

Trying to figure out how I should wire a battery pack for a dashcam into the fusebox. Seems like I'd probably want an empty ACC slot (not looking to drain the car's battery while the car is off). I simply plug in the add-a-fuse leaving the bottom fuse empty (since the port was unused before) and then plug like a 15A fuse into the top so I can get 9A from it, and then plug that into the the external battery pack (i.e. B-124X).

Just checking with the more experienced folks around here. Am I missing anything here?
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      09-22-2021, 09:57 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepingplant View Post
Is there any reason I'd ever use a slot (is that what they're called?) that's occupied by an existing fuse already when there appear to be so many empty unused slots in the car? It seems to me like using an empty one should always be better, since you won't modify the existing circuit (no chance that the add-a-fuse isn't working properly and somehow blows the existing fuse, or that you accidentally connect the two fuses in series rather than in parallel).

Trying to figure out how I should wire a battery pack for a dashcam into the fusebox. Seems like I'd probably want an empty ACC slot (not looking to drain the car's battery while the car is off). I simply plug in the add-a-fuse leaving the bottom fuse empty (since the port was unused before) and then plug like a 15A fuse into the top so I can get 9A from it, and then plug that into the the external battery pack (i.e. B-124X).

Just checking with the more experienced folks around here. Am I missing anything here?
You can use empty slots as long as there's current supplied all the time or when the car is in acc mode. No issues there.
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