[Encanto]

Originally Posted by ETan

I have changed the IO input for Main routing. Removed FR, FL, RL, RR for subwoofer 1 and 2 (channel E & F) and replaced with Aux L and Aux R. Creating a big difference in the positive way. More massive bass appears. I’m happy with the new setting.

There is no bass on FR, FL, RL, RR channels.

I was expecting that this MEC-Analog would automatically show as the only inputs of the woofer channels outputs in the DSP Tool, not that you had to figure it out on your own. Those are the only channels in the RAM that have bass (~200Hz and below), other channels are high passed (~150Hz and above) -that is the reason that you were noticing a lack of bass.

[Calamari]

Originally Posted by ETan

I have changed the IO input for Main routing. Removed FR, FL, RL, RR for subwoofer 1 and 2 (channel E & F) and replaced with Aux L and Aux R. Creating a big difference in the positive way. More massive bass appears. I’m happy with the new setting.

What should AUX L&R be? For what are these outputs ?

[Calamari]

Originally Posted by Encanto

There is no bass on FR, FL, RL, RR channels.

I was expecting that this MEC-Analog would automatically show as the only inputs of the woofer channels outputs in the DSP Tool, not that you had to figure it out on your own. Those are the only channels in the RAM that have bass (~200Hz and below), other channels are high passed (~150Hz and above) -that is the reason that you were noticing a lack of bass.

It seems that UP7BMW has a different configuration. With this amp, left subwoofer is getting signal from FL and RL, and right subwoofer is getting signal from FR and RR.

Attaching a screenshot of input scheme from standard Limousine sound setup

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by Calamari

It seems that UP7BMW has a different configuration. With this amp, left subwoofer is getting signal from FL and RL, and right subwoofer is getting signal from FR and RR.

Attaching a screenshot of input scheme from standard Limousine sound setup

The 7BMW and 7DSP amps are 4ch inputs/8ch outputs standard.

The 7BMW is set for the HiFi system of the F30 - the OEM HU outputs 4ch, low level full range signals. Those are the 4ch inputs of the 7BMW, so there is bass in all channels.

The HiFi system in the G20 has an OEM HU that outputs its audio signals via Ethernet to a RAM module in the trunk. The RAM power the speakers via 7ch high level outputs -5ch are high passed (front, rear, center = mid and tweeters), 2ch are low passed (woofers = bass). No full range channels.

The 7BMW or the 7DSP require full range signals as its inputs. As there are no full range signals in any of the channels of the RAM so that's where the MEC-Analog module add-on comes in -it adds two extra inputs to the 7BMW or 7DSP so a 6ch input configuration can be created. These 6ch inputs are required for the 7BMW/7DSP to internally create a full range signal from front/rear/woofer RAM signals - front + rear + woofer = full range.

The MEC-Analog inputs are the woofer outputs of the RAM.

I would suggest to use all inputs (F/R/Aux) as the sources of all outputs so a full range signal is available at all speaker outputs, you can go lower or higher in the frequency range than the non-full range OEM signal for better tuning.

[ETan]

Originally Posted by Encanto

The 7BMW and 7DSP amps are 4ch inputs/8ch outputs standard.

The 7BMW is set for the HiFi system of the F30 - the OEM HU outputs 4ch, low level full range signals. Those are the 4ch inputs of the 7BMW, so there is bass in all channels.

The HiFi system in the G20 has an OEM HU that outputs its audio signals via Ethernet to a RAM module in the trunk. The RAM power the speakers via 7ch high level outputs -5ch are high passed (front, rear, center = mid and tweeters), 2ch are low passed (woofers = bass). No full range channels.

The 7BMW or the 7DSP require full range signals as its inputs. As there are no full range signals in any of the channels of the RAM so that's where the MEC-Analog module add-on comes in -it adds two extra inputs to the 7BMW or 7DSP so a 6ch input configuration can be created. These 6ch inputs are required for the 7BMW/7DSP to internally create a full range signal from front/rear/woofer RAM signals - front + rear + woofer = full range.

The MEC-Analog inputs are the woofer outputs of the RAM.

I would suggest to use all inputs (F/R/Aux) as the sources of all outputs so a full range signal is available at all speaker outputs, you can go lower or higher in the frequency range than the non-full range OEM signal for better tuning.

I have changed the Main Input Routing, and the sound is richer now.



Maybe still some tweaks and someone else to verify if the settings are right.

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by ETan

I have changed the Main Input Routing, and the sound is richer now.

Attachment 2398603

Maybe still some tweaks and someone else to verify if the settings are right.

Front Right should be FR + AUX R.

Line Out inputs should be AUX (L/R), (trunk sub via RCA).

[ETan]

Originally Posted by Encanto

Front Right should be FR + AUX R.

Line Out inputs should be AUX (L/R), (trunk sub via RCA).

You're right, that will make a big difference.
I don't have a Sub in the trunk. I only have the standard subs under the seats.

[Calamari]

Originally Posted by Encanto

The 7BMW and 7DSP amps are 4ch inputs/8ch outputs standard.

The 7BMW is set for the HiFi system of the F30 - the OEM HU outputs 4ch, low level full range signals. Those are the 4ch inputs of the 7BMW, so there is bass in all channels.

The HiFi system in the G20 has an OEM HU that outputs its audio signals via Ethernet to a RAM module in the trunk. The RAM power the speakers via 7ch high level outputs -5ch are high passed (front, rear, center = mid and tweeters), 2ch are low passed (woofers = bass). No full range channels.

The 7BMW or the 7DSP require full range signals as its inputs. As there are no full range signals in any of the channels of the RAM so that's where the MEC-Analog module add-on comes in -it adds two extra inputs to the 7BMW or 7DSP so a 6ch input configuration can be created. These 6ch inputs are required for the 7BMW/7DSP to internally create a full range signal from front/rear/woofer RAM signals - front + rear + woofer = full range.

The MEC-Analog inputs are the woofer outputs of the RAM.

@Encanto I would suggest to use all inputs (F/R/Aux) as the sources of all outputs so a full range signal is available at all speaker outputs, you can go lower or higher in the frequency range than the non-full range OEM signal for better tuning.

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

It's all clear now. The main difference between 7BMW and 7DSPw.MEC-Analog is the MEC-Analog that allows the amp to get full-range inputs.

Encanto please correct me if I'm wrong, but this would lead me to conclusion that adding a MEC-Analog module to 7BMW amp, and using the PP-BMW-1.7RAM adapter can make the 7BMW amp work with G-series BMWs with RAM units.

Am I right?

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by Calamari

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

It's all clear now. The main difference between 7BMW and 7DSPw.MEC-Analog is the MEC-Analog that allows the amp to get full-range inputs.

Encanto please correct me if I'm wrong, but this would lead me to conclusion that adding a MEC-Analog module to 7BMW amp, and using the PP-BMW-1.7RAM adapter can make the 7BMW amp work with G-series BMWs with RAM units.

Am I right?

Correct.

[Calamari]

Originally Posted by Encanto

Correct.

Encanto Much appreciated.

Cool. This makes the 7BMW future proof for my next BMW :-)

[ETan]

Originally Posted by Calamari

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

It's all clear now. The main difference between 7BMW and 7DSPw.MEC-Analog is the MEC-Analog that allows the amp to get full-range inputs.

Encanto please correct me if I'm wrong, but this would lead me to conclusion that adding a MEC-Analog module to 7BMW amp, and using the PP-BMW-1.7RAM adapter can make the 7BMW amp work with G-series BMWs with RAM units.

Am I right?

That’s Right. I have this setup now.

[AustraliaG20]

Hi all, I've done a quick write up on this amp with the Bavsound speaker setup.

https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...3#post26676623

[Calamari]

Thanks for the write-up AustraliaG20.

I ended up replacing OEM woofers, too. I couldn't resist :-).

Now with the Focal iSub2 woofers, the low range is much tighter, more precise and the system is perfect for rock, jazz, reggae, and other types of music where bass guitar and kick bass drums run the show.

[TropikThunder]

Originally Posted by ETan

I have the factory speakers that comes along with the HIFI option. Which is tweeters and woofers in front and rear doors, center speaker and 2 subwoofers under the front seat.

The ASD is still on.

I will search the forum about tuning the DSP.

I thought the HiFi didn't have tweeters in the rear doors (as Calamari said)? Also, what did you use for a remote-on lead? I didn't see a wire connected to it on the 7UP DSP photo in post #32 (there's a yellow "+12V" wire and a black "GND" wire but not a blue "REM" wire).

[TropikThunder]

Originally Posted by Encanto

The UP 7BMW and the UP 7DSP are the same units, the difference is the 7BMW has its 12+ and ground connections in the same Molex 20-pin connector as its inputs and outputs, the 7DSP has its 12V and ground in a separate connector and not in the Molex. The 7BMW can also be powered by the 12V and ground in the separate connector.

If you got a 7BMW for your F30 HiFi and now you get a G20 HiFi then you can install the 7BMW in the G20 HiFi as long as you use the new G20 RAM harness and the 2ch add-on module.

Does the RAM harness have a remote-on lead (I didn't see one in the description)? If not, what's the remote-on source for the UP7 amp?

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by TropikThunder

Does the RAM harness have a remote-on lead (I didn't see one in the description)? If not, what's the remote-on source for the UP7 amp?

The UP7 has signal sense as remote, or use the REM terminal in the power input socket.

[TropikThunder]

Originally Posted by Encanto

The UP7 has signal sense as remote, or use the REM terminal in the power input socket.

Thanks! Gotta say, you’ve been a tremendous source of information here, I appreciate it.

[Calamari]

Originally Posted by TropikThunder

I thought the HiFi didn't have tweeters in the rear doors (as Calamari said)? Also, what did you use for a remote-on lead? I didn't see a wire connected to it on the 7UP DSP photo in post #32 (there's a yellow "+12V" wire and a black "GND" wire but not a blue "REM" wire).

In EU, HiFi system doesn't have tweeters in the rear doors.

[Bumker]

I just installed the match-up 7 DSP amp with Ram in my BMW G20 and it's day and night with the HIFI system.
The OEM amplifier of Ram modul is clearly undersized for the original Hifi speakers.

I am just starting the fine tuning with the equalizer.

honestly the sound produced with the 10 OEM speakers drived by the match up 7 dsp is similar to the Burmaster that I had on my old mercedes W205.

good upgrade.

[k4sh_90]

Originally Posted by helmet91

Next dumb question from helmet91:

Where in the trunk does a person find the RAM? I have an access panel on the right that has the fuse box. And there's the battery under the floor. I don't see anything else that's obvious.

My build sheet says I have:
645 Radio Control US
65A CD Player Prep (where the hell is that located??)
676 Hi-fi sound system

So, judging by post #20, I should have the RAM... but where?

For what it's worth, Bimmercode lets me turn off ASD in the RAM.

Thanks again!

RAM module should be on the left side. Will have to pull down the carpeting to get to it.

[pneumodoc]

Originally Posted by Bumker

I just installed the match-up 7 DSP amp with Ram in my BMW G20 and it's day and night with the HIFI system.
The OEM amplifier of Ram modul is clearly undersized for the original Hifi speakers.

I am just starting the fine tuning with the equalizer.

honestly the sound produced with the 10 OEM speakers drived by the match up 7 dsp is similar to the Burmaster that I had on my old mercedes W205.

good upgrade.

I'm a bit torn. Would really like to move forward with the Match UP7 DSP, but doesn't seem easily available in the US, and wary about issues like the ASD, wipers, etc being crazy loud. Also was waiting to see if Bavsound does a version that is more plug and play.

[copene]

(BIG TIME POST EDIT)

(EDIT) First things first: I found that the head unit CLIPS and introduces distortion with an SMD-1 by pulling out the bare wire on the center channel (unused) and putting the meter on it. Want a clean signal to start with? Turn the volume absolutely full and then back up 10 clicks on the volume dial. This is your clean signal MAXIMUM so NEVER go past that.

Hey guys, does anyone have any clue if you can somehow code off the automatic bass reduction when the volume is increased? I have a 2020 X3 with the 676A RAM module and I've done the MATCH UP 7 DSP upgrade and added a PPI i650.1 sub amp for a small sealed 12". I upgraded all the speakers to the Bimmertech Alpha One series, including the 8" floor woofers. But after spending thousands of dollars I soon realized, I'm still throttled.

You're stuck with the factory crossovers outside of the line out (external subwoofer) and deciding where you want the 8" mid subs to start. The 4 "full range" speakers are locked with no bass by the RAM unit and trying to get a smooth transition between the 8" mid woofer and the 4" speakers is tough. The problem is, the fucking volume increase and decrease CHANGE the EQ's in the RAM unit. You could have something sounding great, turn it up to 85% and it sounds like absolute shit. The uppermids get cranked and the low end is automatically throttled. I'm guessing this is to protect the tiny shitty speakers that come factory installed. I decided to EQ with the pink noise a bit louder to combat the dynamic EQ that gets triggered at higher volume. This is a compromise as at low level it may sound a little bassy but as you increase it starts sounding really good.

The Bimmertech speakers. (HUGE EDIT HERE) - I was not impressed because I couldn't get an EQ that I was happy with. I just re-EQ'd the truck speaker by speaker but this time I measured 3 TIMES in a row for 20 seconds each time and set EQ after every time out. This finally put the EQ very close to my curve. I used a 150Hz high pass for the FL/FR/RL/RR with a 12db roll off and bypassed the upper frequencies. I set the SUBL and SUBR one at a time crossed over at 60Hz to 300Hz although I'm pretty sure they roll off at 250Hz regardless. I set my SUB (LINE OUT) to 25Hz to 60Hz. For the sub I'm using 24db roll off and the rest of the system is 18db roll off.

I'm happy to say, the speakers are finally sounding good. There are huge dips in the 160Hz range that the EQing has applied so I'm guessing the factory has this frequency range pumped to try to make it sound like it's got low end in the 8" underseats. The mids are finally not killing me like my previous runs with the DSP. I think the problem is, you see these dramatic dips and want to manually tune the hell out of them but you have to resist. I can't explain now important this is. Yes, you will have to still do a little bit of adjusting but I find it's only at the bottom and top of the spectrum. Everything 8Khz and over needs to be tamed by 3-5db and the low end for my external sub needed a bit of a boost in the 32-40Hz range so you can feel it thump when it needs to.


I would love to be able to 100% skip the RAM module but it looks like it's impossible. Also, adding AUX L and AUX R into the "full range" I/O does add the bass back into the little speakers but the internal fuckery you're causing by doing this is actually worse for the system once you start measuring.

I'll post the build pictures for you guys so that you can fit all the amps in the side panel back there later on.