[crpediem_2]

Originally Posted by Greekstyle

Turns out when I stuffed my hand back in the rear compartment where I mounted the amp to connect the line out, i popped out the connector that goes to the 3rd row climate control. That is fixed now but I am having a hell of a time blending the Subwoofer with the under-seat woofers.

I am encountering a phenomenon where at lower volumes the bass sounds deeper and as I increase the volume, it really starts to drop off until I start hitting 80% volume and then it starts hitting again. Would you be able to provide your settings for the underseat woofers and your trunk sub?

This first pic is of the routing I used:

The second pic are the setting for the underseat subs

The third pic are the settings for the rear 12” subwoofer.

[Greekstyle]

Wow. Thank you for this. I see that the output 1 is set to -19DB. I assume you are making it up with an increase in the gain on the actual amp?

[crpediem_2]

Originally Posted by Greekstyle

Wow. Thank you for this. I see that the output 1 is set to -19DB. I assume you are making it up with an increase in the gain on the actual amp?

Yes, that is correct. I wanted to give myself enough headroom in order to tweak the bass to the output level desired And to provide some flexibility. so I set the gain on the amp to about 2/3.

[graphys]

Hi;

How exactly should I adjust the amplifier for very high signal and system volume? I read the entire topic but since I am very new, I could not find a solution.

[DRD_G20]

Originally Posted by graphys

Hi;

How exactly should I adjust the amplifier for very high signal and system volume? I read the entire topic but since I am very new, I could not find a solution.

I'd be really interested in this as well. Will be going the Match route and just ordered my Eton speakers

[Mark430]

Can someone explain to me what is the actual difference between Fischer Match UP 8DSP and Bimmertech Alpha One UP8? Is that basically the same amplifier? Do both of them need to be connected to the car battery?

[NH BIMMR340]

The hardware is the same. You're paying for their custom tunes based on your vehicle type/ trim and additional tune tweaking post install. The Alpha one doesn't get directly connected to the battery. Power is supplied through the harness.

[RCM78]

Originally Posted by NH BIMMR340

The hardware is the same. You're paying for their custom tunes based on your vehicle type/ trim and additional tune tweaking post install. The Alpha one doesn't get directly connected to the battery. Power is supplied through the harness.

Are you sure about the power? It’s the same amp, just rebranded. I’m pretty sure the power requirement is the same.

[DRD_G20]

Originally Posted by RCM78

Are you sure about the power? It’s the same amp, just rebranded. I’m pretty sure the power requirement is the same.

The power req should be the same, though the original harness for the RAM is meant to carry current to power 2ohm speakers, meaning the original ones, case in which the OEM harness will be ok. Replace OEM speakers with 4 ohm speakers and suddenly you're not in the same scenario any more.

Now for any future Match UP 8DSP buyers, I hope you won't make the same mistake as me.

There are two versions of the MATCH PP-BMW 1.7RAM, one is for the UP 7DSP Edition (M171308) and another UP 8DSP Edition (M171310). The pinout for them in 99% the same with the exception of the subwoofer outputs.

UP 7DSP/BMW has its subwoofer output in the middle of the connector and UP 8DSP/BMW has them in the left hand side of the connector. Good news is that you can extract these pins and reposition them so that the UP 7DSP Edition will work with the UP8.

This is only a problem when you retain the OEM subwoofers which are 2 ohm and the UP 8DSP/BMW wants to see a minim load of 4 ohm on F & E outputs as per the manual. If you replace the subwoofers from the start then this "mistake" will be invisible.

So watch out when ordering your parts

[Greekstyle]

Originally Posted by crpediem_2

Yes, that is correct. I wanted to give myself enough headroom in order to tweak the bass to the output level desired And to provide some flexibility. so I set the gain on the amp to about 2/3.

Will set mine up similarly. I found out that my remote bass knob was wigging out. On max it worked just fine but any kind of reduction would result in low boomy bass at low volumes and almost nothing at higher volumes. also slight movements to the cable would make the bass increase/decrease. i pulled the damn thing out the amp and have stable bass levels now. I primarily use poweramp on my android for music. I have a ton of playlist with songs downloaded from late 90's (napster days) up to current tracks. Quality is all over the place. I wias using knob to adjust bass between tracks as some were way too bass heavy and others were severely lacking. With Poweramp, i can actually assign an EQ to an individual track or playlist. I will have to take some time to just adjust bass for the tracks that fall out of "norm". I am at a place now where I am very happy with the sound. I also found out my installer for my focal fronts was not too bright, or at least their employees, as one tweeter was connected to the 3db attenuation wire and the other side was not.

[DRD_G20]

So guys, I think I'm onto something here, and I hope it helps others as well. Its related to how the turn signal, PDC, ASD sounds are amplified after an amplifier replacement or should I say how loud (annoying) they are.

First my setup. I have a 2020 G20 330i with the Hi-fi option and RAM. I replaced all my speakers with one from Eton as well as the amp with Match UP 8BMW (8DSP is exactly the same thing). Sub's are still stock.

I started with an bone stock/ flat setup file to get things rolling then I used a setup file from a forum user Calamari (thank you !) which I think is excellent as we have the same hardware setup. For lack of better words, music was banging. Nice midrange, crisp highs, good bass even for stock subs.

However, there was one problem ... turn signal, PDC, ASD were mad loud, very disturbing. ASD was unbearable, you could not have a conversation when in SPORT. In short ASD cannot be fixed, only disabled via BimmerCode (BimmerLink only disables it till next car startup).

As for the turn signal, PDC etc, I compared my base tune with the one from Calamari. Apart from the obvious HP, LP filters and frequency EQ, the channel gain for each speaker was the same and still the system sounds sounded mad loud comparing the two tunes. (see first pic)

Then after reading the forum, online manual, I had a look under DCM -> Signal management -> Main Input -> Input Gain.
I noticed that the base tune is set at 11Vrms while the other tune was set at 3.9Vrms

This is the reason why the music sounds great (ignoring EQ etc) but also the system sounds are mad loud. This also affects your "hiss" lvl when no music is playing, the lower the input gain (i see it as a sensitivity) the louder the "hiss" is.

The DSP software only allows an incremental modification of the Input gain (from loudest 2.8; 3.9; 5.5; 7.8; 11Vrms to quietest). Our only chance is to strike a balance between musicality and the system sounds by playing with this value.

I currently have this set at 5.5Vrms and the turn signal and other sounds are bearable without the music taking a big hit. Mind you, the higher the input gain value, the quieter the system sounds and music gets.

I hope this helps those looking to adjust the system sounds to an acceptable lvl

[phc77]

Go to “Advanced Gain Setup”, play some music and you'll be able to see whether the input level is sufficiently high or saturated.

Another thing, given your configuration, you should select “Bypass” in Lowpass Filter Section of Front L Full and you'll start to hear the music.

[DRD_G20]

I'll give it a try to hear how it sounds. Are you using the Match UP 7DSP ?
I see your voltage range is higher than mine.

[phc77]

I have the MATCH UP10, so I have more channels, but everything else is the same.

The aim is not to reach the maximum voltage, as this will generate unbearable distortion.

You need to find the maximum point on your volume control button that you can reach without distortion.

There's a wealth of information here:
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/k...e/DSP-PC-Tool/
In particular this:
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/medi...l_Vol2_Web.pdf