02-22-2019, 03:10 PM | #1 |
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[Updated with Pics![Long Post!] Carbon Black X5: STEK Dynoshield and GTechniq ceramic
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Long post - sorry! I've searched and tried to read most of the threads here about PPF and Ceramic coatings, but I still have some questions. Would appreciate your feedback on this as I will be getting my new X5 in approximately a month's time.Thanks ahead of time for the forum members' support here. [Update: Pics are below in Post #20!] Have gone for Carbon Black 40i (M-sport) + Ivory Merino extended leather on the interior. 21" staggered tires setup. Based in Dallas, TX. 1) Prep: I will be taking this straight from the dealer to a detailer and will be starting with paint inspection, detailed prep and polishing as the first set of steps (among others as needed) 2) PPF: After comparing STEK versus SunTek Ultra versus XPEL , I plan to go with the STEK Dynoshield film. *Claimed* warranty of 10 years against delamination, yellowing, bubbling and cracking. I like it because of its smooth finish, high gloss and built-in hydrophobic properties. I am not fond of potential orange peeling from the XPEL being added to some pre-existing baseline orange peeling in the factory paint. there are reports of it being reduced/fixed in the latest version (XPEL ultimate plus), but I am not fully convinced and don't wish to take a chance. So in order of personal preference, I am prioritzing the PPF films as follows: STEK > SunTek > XPEL [skalberti, thanks for your data points here and on #6!] 3) Ceramic coating: Next, I plan to have the GTechniq Crystal Serum Ultra applied (professional application only; 10h rating, *claimed* 9 years) topped with EXO v4 coating for a combined effect of further enhanced gloss and enhanced hydrophobic properties. Because I am a complete novice at detailing, I want the first steps to be done right and by a professional who knows what they are doing. My hope is to able to do this myself in 2-3 years when these ceramic coatings have to be reapplied. Plan is to buy the supplies and then apply it myself at my garage. This way, I have an upfront (high-ish) cost but a lower cost to sustain and preserve the coatings. 4) Windows: can I get some recommendations please? thinking of clear tint with UV protection in the front windshield and in back windows + back windshield [ the latter are pre-tinted anyway], and then have the front two days tinted to match the rear if possible. TX laws have a > 25% light transmission requirement, so I don't know if this will limit being able to match the rear tint. I've read reports of the back windows being at 15-20%, and if so, I may have to live with the fronts being a little lighter than the rear - which is how it comes from the factory anyway - so this is not a huge show stopper. But need a film with good UV and heat rejection properties to deal with the heat here in the south. 5)Grille: thinking of replacing factory grille with an IND one (chrome outline, black slats, and mid-section painted CB) . Given the small surface area - does it make sense to even bother PPF-ing this ? If I have chips on the black front slots, will it expose the chrome underneath? If so, is it better to wait from BMW factory M parts till end of next month? 6)Installers (DFW region): Looking at DFW Clear Bra based on skalberti's positive feedback [thanks!]. But open to other recommendations as well! Also the STEK website lists this same company and same address under a different name/URL (http://www.clearcoatfilm.com/) - this is the only STEK listing AFAIK in the DFW area. 7)Interior care: ( will be doing this myself) Leather: Going to use BMW products suggested at the beginning and then switch to either Sonax or Zaino for subsequent applications. [Thanks Mystro!] Trim: I have chosen the Fineline wood glossy trim: any recommendations to protect and preserve this? Goals in priority order: a) Maximize and preserve overall paint gloss and finish. b) Minimize highway chips ( PPF is expected to help here). I know this should be #1, but I am being honest here! c) Make it reasonably easy to wash and maintain it clean - without need for extensive detailing (ceramic to help here). Hope on paint maintenance is to wash it off with water and wipe down with good quality towels or air-dry with a leaf blower, and maybe add a suitable product once a month to keep up the shine - I hope this isn't too naive !?! I need to see if my preferred touchless car wash nearby uses PH-neutral soap, in which case there might be bonus of using just a basic wash and air-dry wash package without any brushes or chemicals to ruin the coatings. Questions: 1) Any holes in this approach ? 2) Does it make sense to PPF the whole car ($5k) or just focus on the front half of the car? (~$1.5k) including front doors and everything forward of it, including mirrors) 3) If i use the latter approach above, then won't it create an uneven paint finish/gloss on the car? Will this unevenness be further amplified when I ceramic coat the whole car? 4) 7 years from now, if me or someone else tries to remove or reapply the PPF, will it leave a bad residue? 5) Does STEK film include the adhesive (like Suntek) or is it separately added and installed (like XPEL used to have it)? 6) how difficult is it to remove an existing ceramic coating and reapply a new one? If i use Crystal Serum (pro applicaton only), can I downgrade to a more consumer grade version down the road? or given the plan, should I stick to consumer grade products right from the beginning ( = replace Crystal Serum Ultra above with CS Light?) Thanks for reading all this and for any feedback! Last edited by X519; 04-13-2019 at 10:01 PM.. |
02-23-2019, 05:39 PM | #4 |
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You can't go wrong with STEK or Suntek for the PPF. The guy I use in Carrollton exceeds my expectations every time. I'm very OCD too. I did the full hood, nose and head lights, mirrors, partial fenders and rocker panels below the doors. You can do more than that, but it's not necessary. I just cover the impact zones and the rockers which take a beating from rocks and shoes getting in an out of the car. You'll want to paint correct, have the PPF applied and then do the ceramic. Good luck!
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02-23-2019, 07:37 PM | #5 | ||
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Thanks for the replies, folks!
haha, you called me out! Yes indeed . I have driven other nice cars for perspective, and am aware of the general teething issues mentioned here, so trying to maintain a balanced view, but I can't help myself lol, it is a really good SUV. Quote:
Quote:
Going to go for STEK on the front only and GTechniq Ultra + 2 coats of EXO v4. -------------- So for STEK and GTechniq, we have an interesting situation here. 1) The carrolton place mentioned above is the only licensed place for STEK and a place called tenflat detailing is the only licensed and approved detailer for applying the CS Ultra. So two monopolies isn't a great setup for those here locally, but I talked to Chris for the PPF and he was really good and knows what he is talking about, so I don't mind. 2) So I have to do paint prep and PPF at the first shop. Then take delivery and trundle over to Ten Flat for the ceramic CSU. Hopefully, I don't have do yet another paint prep step and I hope I don't have to wait 5 days at each place. -------------- Offline feedback on the questions so far: Unevenness and cost: unevenness is supposedly negligible. PPF quote for whole car is $6k. Full front is ~$1.6k. Choosing the latter. adhesive: STEK film is similar to Suntek in adhesive construction. All done in one place and they don't have to ship to 3M for a separate adhesive application. Removal: sweet spot here. Techs told me that is the right threshold for removal. Not so easy that it comes off on its own, but not so difficult that after intentional removal or for maintenance that it becomes a nightmare. Other notes: - STEK is supposedly better for stretching out and holding the edges better than Suntek and also lesser yellowing. - Since it is glossy and hydrophobic to begin with,I was told that a Ceramic top coat is not needed if I PPF'd the whole car. Said it was needed for other films but not really for STEK. - I was cautioned that the additional ROI for *gloss* of doing ceramic + STEK is not that significant. But since I am doing partial PPF, I will be going ahead with the ceramic step. Ten Flat is closed today and so I will be calling them on Monday to enquire about costs and downgrading from the initial CSU + EXO V4 to just the CSL + EXOv4 down the road. Will keep you all posted |
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02-23-2019, 08:55 PM | #6 | |
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I made the mistake of not getting appointments for these things in advance. Never knew these detailing people are booked out. so yes I am also novice like you. What BMW products are you using for interior care? and where did you purchase them from? Last edited by wanderlustX5; 02-23-2019 at 09:00 PM.. |
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02-23-2019, 08:57 PM | #7 |
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Paint correction is a must, I was embarrassed honestly to show pics of mine before I had it paint corrected and ceramic coated last week. CB is an incredible color when maintained property. Make sure you wash with quality materials and do it yourself. My wife was running ours through the car was and swirled the fuck out of the paint. I'm hand washing from now on after getting it all fixed up.
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02-23-2019, 09:10 PM | #8 | |
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Appointments - yeah, some of these places are booked a month out, sometimes by private clients and sometime also due to volume bookings by some select dealerships or body shops. Add to the fact that this is time and labor intensive - then the schedules fill up real fast. I am having to juggle my timeline estimate from BMW and dealer and book these accordingly. BMW products: Credit to forum user Mystro here. He definitely knows his stuff and has got great credentials . I am linking to his post from another thread here: https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=29 I am still to order these, but I presume you can find this at the dealer or the BMW parts website. I'd read the full thread linked to get the full context and additional suggestions. Sonax and Zaino keep coming up as a suggestions. What exterior color and interior color config do you have? Best of luck and feel free to post pics please |
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02-23-2019, 09:14 PM | #9 | |
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Thanks for sharing. I saw your posts on this earlier and also of the pics of you washing it in front of your garage. Do you mind sharing the details of your detailing work done externally? Where did you get yours corrected and what PPF and/or ceramic did you end up using ? Cost numbers would be helpful to know as well! Thanks in advance ! |
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02-23-2019, 09:14 PM | #10 |
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X519 are you actually in Dallas? I have a guy in Carrollton and argyle that does a kick ass job.
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02-23-2019, 09:18 PM | #11 | |
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02-23-2019, 09:24 PM | #12 |
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Get you a good power washer a bucket and these or similar washing materials. Get a good quality wash mit and quality microfiber towels. I start by power washing the car to get the grime off then foam it then go section by section with the mit and spray off each section at a time so the soap doesn't dry up on the car. Once I've done all the sections I go back and give it a must and start drying and it's sparkling clean. Get you some of that California cover all for the tires that really puts the icing on the cake 🎂.
I used clearbra north Dallas for the paint correction and feynlabs ceramic. He has a shop in Carrollton and argyle. I live in flower mound so I used the argyle location.
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02-23-2019, 09:34 PM | #14 | |
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All, BTW, this poster did an absolutely stunning job for his CB F15. Lot of work and patience needed! Link: https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1184358 Everytime I was tempted to order Tanzanite blue (another $2k + have to wait till April), I kept coming back to this link and saying to myself CB is still nice |
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02-24-2019, 08:15 AM | #15 | |
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02-24-2019, 08:16 AM | #16 |
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02-24-2019, 08:17 AM | #17 |
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The UV/heat blocking ceramic film is a must. I live in San Antonio, and there is a local XPEL installer who used to own part of the XPEL company. I would recommend getting the clear tint on the moonroof, windshield and ALL the previously tinted back windows. There is no UV blocking capacity (or heat) on factory tinted windows. By day, my job is taking skin cancers off people. With my kids in the car, and to protect the interior long term, UV protection all around is a must for me.
I have had LLUMAR heat blocking tint products in my cars as well and they all are great. Most of it depends on the installer. There is a good one here at Mark Motors in Boerne if you are willing to drive, but Dallas is so big i'm sure you can find someone locally. |
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02-24-2019, 08:46 AM | #18 | |
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02-26-2019, 01:57 AM | #19 | |
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closer to Lucas Small world indeed!
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=========== Spoke to the owner of TenFlat detailing for the ceramic coating. Going to do GTechniq CSU Black package (CS Ultra + two coats of EXO V4). Slightly above average on cost, but quality of work is great. Liking what I am seeing and hearing. Base coat of CS Ultra guaranteed for 9 years if applied by an accredited detailer and with yearly check-ups. EXO-V4 is rated for 2 years, although with care 2.5-3yrs can be achieved before needing a top-up of the EXO. Only the top coat needs to be refreshed. The base coat need not be renewed or re-applied. Now the hard part...waiting for delivery |
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04-13-2019, 09:59 PM | #20 |
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Finally, some pictures ...
Took delivery, got the PPF done, and also got the coating done. Extremely pleased with the results. Kurt (owner) at Tenflat Detailing was phenomenal. All my concerns were addressed upfront and I am super happy I went this route. Hard part was the waiting .... Baseline paint at initial inspection was around 85%. Got a 2-stage paint correction done and we aimed for, and ended up at 95%. Going further was going to take a lot more time and money and so we felt comfortable at this level. I also got the full wheels done [after removal], got the M-sport calipers coated and then the mount points also coated gently to get some initial protection against rust - not really a concern here in DFW, but to give it a good baseline as much as possible. The brakes shed a lot of dust, so now it will be easy to just wash/rinse it off fairly easily. For the windows, I got a Ceramic film (Madico) installed for UV protection and heat rejection. 30% throughout. The rear ones are pre-tinted glass (privacy glass), and with the shades - one can always get extra control of light/heat. Left the car all day at work (no covered parking) in 97 F sun, and hopped in at the end and it was still cool and fresh as a daisy. For the front windshield, I used a 80% VLT film, with UV rejection properties to further reduce heat and mitigate fading of interior, especially that leather dashboard. I told my installer about concerns/risks associated with the DLP unit, the BW system and the leather dash - but they are good and managed it without any issues so far. Combined with the BMW leather care products with UV resistance - that ought to control any fading of the front dash and seats. Finally, the exterior of all windows were coated with Glassparency to improve water beading off the exterior glass surfaces. Last edited by X519; 04-13-2019 at 11:24 PM.. |
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04-13-2019, 10:07 PM | #21 |
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More pics ...
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04-13-2019, 10:12 PM | #22 |
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Last set for now :)
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