[rostrata]

Got the downpipe in a day or two ago and decided to put it on this morning. Install, as many others have stated, was stupid easy. A bit time consuming but otherwise not difficult at all. Think I might have even been a little insulted that instructions were included. 🧐

Fitment and finish were absolutely excellent. Didn’t even pull the bottom covers off the car. Just put the damn thing on jack stands.

Remapped the car (on MHD with flex fuel CAN) to indicate aftermarket downpipes and went for a drive. No drone. No rasp. Very close to stock unless getting on it. I wound up with a polished version and I’m glad I went that route. It’s pretty. Anyway, ass dyno definitely indicates more… ass. Not going to dyno it again for quite some time so all I know is I think I’m at a sweet spot where I’m happy. That’s all that matters.

Tech tip below if you you’re interested….

Helpful tip for those of you that may have issues with the v-band clamp and getting both flanges to come close enough to get the clamp tightened… use your floor jack at the slip joint. Keep the slip joint loose and the hanger bolts loose as well. Also drop out the 13mm bolt on the exhaust for some extra room to move. Then put your jack under the slip joint and slowly raise it up until you see the gasket crush and the flanges come together tightly. Tighten the v-band and then pull the jack out. You’ll likely need to retighten the v-band again as stress from the joint will shift once jack support is removed. Then tighten the hanger bolts, put the exhaust bolt back in and then tighten the slip joint. In that order.

PS!!! ALL the bolts are 13mm!! The G20, at least the M340, does not employ any E8/10/12, 14mm, or any other odds and ends. Just a couple of different length 13mm sockets is all you need.

Additional tip for getting the downpipe off if it’s stuck. A 24” piece of 2x4, pressed against the downpipe from the top of the vehicle, right against the O2 sensor flange, and a mallet. Hammer the piss out of it until you see it begin to twist or move. No damage to the stock pipe. A few splinters off a 2x4.

Also, as said above, the removal of the belly pan or and of the covers is not required. Sure, you can do it but it doesn’t really get you anything.

Lastly, if your replacement gasket is sitting loose and wants to fall out, a drop of CA glue (superglue) will fix that issue. No worries about exhaust leaks or anything. The gasket will be fine. The CA glue will burn off.

[James Cole]

Great review!

Is the tone less deep?

And ls there a way to deal with the cel without a tune?

[rostrata]

Tone is actually quite deep. Much deeper than stock. And btw, I have the stock exhaust and very likely won’t change it.

As for the CEL, no idea on a non-tuned car that doesn’t shadow code the CEL. I know some people have gotten some of those very long extensions for their O2 sensors (not just the 90 degree ones but they’re extra long) and have had good success. I suppose it just depends.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Thank you for the review

[Gryph8n]

I have an evolution racewerks downpipe on my M440i and love the tone. It is deep and rumbles. Using a JB4 tube and getting good power increases. The only annoying thing is the CEL which I can clear with JB4. Is anyone using a O2 spacer? Is so, which one works?

[Randy Johnson]

Thank you for the review. I may be getting this dp.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Randy Johnson

Thank you for the review. I may be getting this dp.

its on sale until the end of this week.