[AGONXF30]

The G20 with the B58 has proven to be very reliable. Heck the F30 with N55 and B58 are very reliable.

1. Change your engine oil at 5K-7K max (with highway miles you can push it closer to 10K, but that is a lot of highway miles, shorter or mixed trips I would do 5K-7K with 5K in shorter drives). Do a break in oil change at 1 to 2K.

2. Let your car get up to 165+ degrees Fahrenheit before attempting to go into hard boost.

3. Let your EGT come down to reasonable levels after droves. Even easy drives can have the car at some 900 degrees Fahrenheit. I would say below 800 is reasonable for the B58.

4. Change your coolant at every 50 to 70K.

5. Change the ZF oil at 50 to 80K. 50K if your are driving hard, 80K if your are driving normally.

6. Change your xDrive differential and transfer case oils 30 to 50K, again depending on the driving techniques.

The B58 and ZF are very reliable. So take care of them and they will take care of you.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by AGONXF30

5. Change the ZF oil at 50 to 80K. 50K if your are driving hard, 80K if your are driving normally.

ZF recommends 150000km change interval if there is no high temperature/load and known history.

[AGONXF30]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

ZF recommends 150000km change interval if there is no high temperature/load and known history.

“Automatic ZF transmissions are filled with our specially developed ZF-LifeguardFluid transmission oil. At very high operating temperatures, oil ages faster than under normal conditions. Depending on driving style (e.g. sporty driving or lots of high-speed drives), ZF Aftermarket therefore recommends a transmission oil change every 100,000 km or after 8 years at the latest.”

https://aftermarket.zf.com/sea/en/af...on-oil-change/

This is from ZF, but there was a bulletin released late last year for their new reformulated oils in which they did claim 150K KM (93K Miles). Now even in that billetin ZF was very cautious to cover thier own arse and say that depending on the driving conditions, temperatures, etc., the fluid might have to be changed sooner.

Old ZF literature used to have a range from 80K KM to 100K KM (49K Miles to 62K Miles). I have adhered to the 100K KM (62K Miles) and I have replaced my fluid every 60K Miles. When the fluid is replaced, the transmission only accepts about 5L or so, which means quite a bit of older fluid remains. My fluid was still relatively clear at my last change at 120K Miles, I am up for a third one here soon. I do keep an eye on transmission temperatures, and for the ZF8HP the normal range is around 180 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. It can go up to 230 on hard driving and that should not be an issue so as long as its not prolonged.

So it is in my humble opinion that if you drive the car moderatively hard change it at 60K miles, if you are really really hard, such as launching all the time, tracking it often, going very fast on the highway, etc., a change closer to 50K miles or even sooner might be needed. If you drive like driving miss Daisy then closer to that 90K Miles might be a possibility, but given that a box cost upwards of 10K USD (Specially if you need a new transmission control unit and valve body, which alone is 5K USD), I would change the oil at 60K Miles and call it a day.

[bavarianride]

Yes, the latest recommendation from 7/19/2021 says 150000km miles.

https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemed...fluid-8-it.pdf

The wording is that no fluid change is needed, but due to many factors, 150000km OCI is recommended. High-temperature/high load usage and/or unknown history shortens that interval further.

"ZF automatic transmissions are generally filled with lifetime oil. However, due to the many factors influencing the service life of transmissions in individual operation, ZF recommends an oil
change after 150,000 km for its transmissions.

In operating conditions with high temperatures and loads, or with unknown vehicle use in the
past, it can make sense to change the transmission oil at shorter intervals."

Originally Posted by AGONXF30

This is from ZF, but there was a bulletin released late last year for their new reformulated oils in which they did claim 150K KM (93K Miles). Now even in that billetin ZF was very cautious to cover thier own arse and say that depending on the driving conditions, temperatures, etc., the fluid might have to be changed sooner.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by AGONXF30

I do keep an eye on transmission temperatures, and for the ZF8HP the normal range is around 180 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. It can go up to 230 on hard driving and that should not be an issue so as long as its not prolonged.

How do u monitor transmission temperature? Temperature should be a key contributor to transmission oil degradation.

I have G20 330i 8AT, it rarely goes above 4krpm shifting up/down.

The same was true of my previous F30 328i, it was sold@8.5 yrs and 80k miles with original AT fluid, and the current owner is @10 yrs and 10.5k miles still with original fluid.

I had a friend with a E39 AT going on 20+ yrs and 250k miles on original AT fluid, his mechanic told him not to touch the fluid and drive it till it dies.

[Chubbiejones]

Originally Posted by rodriguez_xxv

Thanks for the info! Have you experienced any issues with any work under warranty after installing the lowering springs? The only other thing I would do to this car right now would be to lower it very slightly. But a little worried about voiding the warranty.

I have coilovers installed and I’ve never experienced any issues when my vehicle was at the dealer for warranty related issues/repairs.

[AGONXF30]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

How do u monitor transmission temperature? Temperature should be a key contributor to transmission oil degradation.

I have G20 330i 8AT, it rarely goes above 4krpm shifting up/down.

The same was true of my previous F30 328i, it was sold@8.5 yrs and 80k miles with original AT fluid, and the current owner is @10 yrs and 10.5k miles still with original fluid.

I had a friend with a E39 AT going on 20+ yrs and 250k miles on original AT fluid, his mechanic told him not to touch the fluid and drive it till it dies.

It is called MHD monitoring which taps into the ECU/TCU for many parameters.

Here is the thing with the fluids. You do you and if you want to follow ZF and believe all the environmentalist that oils will last a lifetime. Go ahead. I like to keep my cars running well and the reason my 11 years old ZF8HP with nearly 170K Miles still behaves as it did when new. So I personally will NOT recommend to someone who expressed they want to keep their car for a long time, to change a fluid at 93K Miles (Which is what 150K KM converts to).

You also drive the vanilla 3er and it seems you do not get on it at all. We are the same in the G05, the RPM rarely go over 2K as the B58 is really torquey down low. I will still change its transmission oil before 70K Miles, possibly 60K Miles as I have done with my other ZF.

[bavarianride]

I see, I thought u meant iDrive hidden menu has extra temperature options that I haven't figured out.

And yes, I don't step on my B46 that much except outrunning Tesla's @cloverleafs, the rpm still stays 4k-4.5k max before ZF drops the gear to pull further away.

The current owner of my previous F30 ZF8HP also runs strong@10+ yrs and 100k+ miles like new. He is in the lifetime camp, I will report back if his ZF8HP goes bust(I think he will change it soon).

Originally Posted by AGONXF30

It is called MHD monitoring which taps into the ECU/TCU for many parameters.

Here is the thing with the fluids. You do you and if you want to follow ZF and believe all the environmentalist that oils will last a lifetime. Go ahead. I like to keep my cars running well and the reason my 11 years old ZF8HP with nearly 170K Miles still behaves as it did when new. So I personally will NOT recommend to someone who expressed they want to keep their car for a long time, to change a fluid at 93K Miles (Which is what 150K KM converts to).

You also drive the vanilla 3er and it seems you do not get on it at all. We are the same in the G05, the RPM rarely go over 2K as the B58 is really torquey down low. I will still change its transmission oil before 70K Miles, possibly 60K Miles as I have done with my other ZF.

[AGONXF30]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

I see, I thought u meant iDrive hidden menu has extra temperature options that I haven't figured out.

And yes, I don't step on my B46 that much except outrunning Tesla's @cloverleafs, the rpm still stays 4k-4.5k max before ZF drops the gear to pull further away.

The current owner of my previous F30 ZF8HP also runs strong@10+ yrs and 100k+ miles like new. He is in the lifetime camp, I will report back if his ZF8HP goes bust(I think he will change it soon).

You also do know that lifetime for BMW means 100K Miles right and that ZF is telling you to change it at 93K Miles right? I just want to make sure you actually understand that.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by AGONXF30

You also do know that lifetime for BMW means 100K Miles right and that ZF is telling you to change it at 93K Miles right? I just want to make sure you actually understand that.

BMWNA does provide 15 years/150000 miles PZEV coverage for emission parts, and interestingly ZF mechatronics is covered. Local foremen said they had zero PZEV warranty claim on ZF, but they do say AT fluid service is included if mechatronics fails.

Foremen also cautioned to follow exact ZF process to drain external oil cooler as well, or else fill level won't be correct.

It is true that the clutch packs aren't covered, but if your cars are bought new rolling off the truck with known history(e.g. no high-temp/high-load/track/uphill/towing/autobahn speed), it is likely your ZF8HP should keep shifting with minimal issue way past 100k miles.

[aci4]

Originally Posted by AGONXF30

The G20 with the B58 has proven to be very reliable. Heck the F30 with N55 and B58 are very reliable.

1. Change your engine oil at 5K-7K max (with highway miles you can push it closer to 10K, but that is a lot of highway miles, shorter or mixed trips I would do 5K-7K with 5K in shorter drives). Do a break in oil change at 1 to 2K.

2. Let your car get up to 165+ degrees Fahrenheit before attempting to go into hard boost.

3. Let your EGT come down to reasonable levels after droves. Even easy drives can have the car at some 900 degrees Fahrenheit. I would say below 800 is reasonable for the B58.

4. Change your coolant at every 50 to 70K.

5. Change the ZF oil at 50 to 80K. 50K if your are driving hard, 80K if your are driving normally.

6. Change your xDrive differential and transfer case oils 30 to 50K, again depending on the driving techniques.

The B58 and ZF are very reliable. So take care of them and they will take care of you.

How do you check the EGT? Usually after a couple of pulls at the end of my commute, I'll let the car sit idle for about 30 sec to 1 minute and then turn it off, but I've just been gauging it subjectively.

[AGONXF30]

Originally Posted by aci4

How do you check the EGT? Usually after a couple of pulls at the end of my commute, I'll let the car sit idle for about 30 sec to 1 minute and then turn it off, but I've just been gauging it subjectively.

30 seconds to a minute is not enough. Specially if you are running the living day lights out of the car.

[aci4]

Originally Posted by AGONXF30

30 seconds to a minute is not enough. Specially if you are running the living day lights out of the car.

Soooo how do you check EGT? lol

[AGONXF30]

Originally Posted by aci4

Soooo how do you check EGT? lol

You need an EGT probe and a gauge.

[AGONXF30]

Originally Posted by aci4

Soooo how do you check EGT? lol

Get an MHD WIFI and pay for the MHD data logging and wallah! You get to see a lot of your car’s parameters.

[bimmerboy71195]

Coolant issues b** engines have been known to loose coolant mysteriously

[newjack]

I bought the car new, it has 37000 miles. Had the motor in the passenger side mirror replaced under warranty. The key fob stopped working had to disconnect cars battery to fix it. I added coolant twice. The occasional iDrive glitch that fixed itself... other than those minor things no problems so far.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by newjack

I bought the car new, it has 37000 miles. Had the motor in the passenger side mirror replaced under warranty. The key fob stopped working had to disconnect cars battery to fix it. I added coolant twice. The occasional iDrive glitch that fixed itself... other than those minor things no problems so far.

Did u get coolant warning?

Did u passenger mirror motor stop to move? I fold the mirrors frequently, I do wonder if that can shorten that motor's life.

And did your key fob stop opening doors? I had the same issue but I got new battery from dealer and that fixed it.

[newjack]

Car gave me a low coolant warning, I've had 9 BMW's I think I've added coolant to all to them. The new key fob battery didn't fix the problem. Both mirrors stopped working, took a week to get an appointment at the dealer by that time the drivers mirror started working, they fixed the passenger mirror and told me the drivers mirror is fine. My mirrors fold every time I walk away from the car, not sure what caused the problem.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by newjack

Car gave me a low coolant warning, I've had 9 BMW's I think I've added coolant to all to them. The new key fob battery didn't fix the problem. Both mirrors stopped working, took a week to get an appointment at the dealer by that time the drivers mirror started working, they fixed the passenger mirror and told me the drivers mirror is fine. My mirrors fold every time I walk away from the car, not sure what caused the problem.

Thanks for the reply.

I did add coolant to previous E39 but only after 9yrs/80k miles, that was when BMW recommended 4-year coolant change interval, so I didn't get any low coolant until close to the 2nd coolant change. The F30 had no coolant loss when sold @8.5 years/80k miles.

How did u get into trunk to disconnect battery when the key fob failed?

[newjack]

The key fob let me in the car, it wouldn't start... kept telling to hold the fob against the steering column.

[N1NCZ]

Originally Posted by newjack

The key fob let me in the car, it wouldn't start... kept telling to hold the fob against the steering column.

Had the same issue - service at dealer (with assistance on NA Techs) reset (batteries disconnect) and so far has been fine since