11-10-2020, 12:36 AM | #89 | |
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My knowledge is very limited but I'll try help as much as I can. Let's start from the basics first. Do you have pictures of how you've wired the spliced cable to your neo?
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11-11-2020, 01:02 PM | #90 | |
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the top picture is the cable coming from the Viofo A129 Pro and the bottom picture is the cable coming from the Cellink NEO View post on imgur.com View post on imgur.com |
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11-12-2020, 09:16 PM | #91 | |
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I'll check mine tomorrow and see how they are labelled and get back to you
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11-12-2020, 10:52 PM | #92 | |
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11-13-2020, 03:12 PM | #93 | |
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11-13-2020, 05:08 PM | #94 |
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2020g20 ,
Am pretty certain it's a small transformer stepping 12v down to 5v -- it's printed on the face label
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11-18-2020, 05:07 PM | #98 |
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Had the dash cam working and then it stopped. I have yellow constant wire into fuse 38 and red accessory wire into 71 using piggyback fuse holders. I have Blackvue 900x with hardwire kit. The inline fuse on hardwire kit reads 12v for the yellow wire when tested with multimeter but the inline fuse for the red wire only reads 1 volt. However when I put the blade fuse back into slot 71 which powers the red wire and test the fuse I get 12v. Any ideas folks.
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12-12-2020, 02:53 AM | #99 |
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Used Joedeejay diagram of always on and ignition on fuses. I picked 38 for always on and 54 for ignition on. Both these are unused in my car. I turned parking mode off so that it would not record in my garage at night. It worked great for a month. Camera would switch off after about 15 minutes when the ignition on fuse went dead. But now the dash cam has started staying on all the time. If I take out the piggyback fuse from 54 it then switches off. So it appears that 54 is remaining live now for some reason. 38 has no effect since parking mode is switched off. Any thoughts or advice on this one.
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12-13-2020, 08:32 AM | #100 |
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Poor response folks. Update. Fuse 54 has now returned to going off within 5 to 10 minutes of switching off ignition. But two days ago it stayed live for 5 hours after ignition was switched off.
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12-17-2020, 04:37 AM | #101 |
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I've hard wired in to fuse 59 the Aukey front and rear dash however it has really effected DAB reception. Even if I unplug the rear and just have the front powered on. Has anyone else had this?
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03-16-2021, 02:50 PM | #102 | |
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Fuse 46 works perfect, times out after a couple minutes. Thanks!
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06-02-2021, 03:44 PM | #103 |
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Some good info here, thanks all.. although everyone seems to be using different fuses for switched.
One question, why are people routing down the passenger side (left side I’m U.K.) when the fuses used are on the right… is there any logical reason nobody’s running down the right hand side to fuse box?! |
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07-26-2021, 08:46 AM | #104 |
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I installed a Vantrue N4 3 camera set up in my G20 this past Saturday. Used F38 with a fuse tap that has a 5A to be able to have power for parking mode. Run the ground wire to the bolt for the air bag. Car sat for 2 days and the low voltage message came up on start up this morning. I ended up unplugging the both the main camera and the the fuse tap from F38. This is the hardware kit that came with the camera set up. I didn't move the switch on the transfer control box. I left it on what ever the setting was out of the box. I am thinking that might be the reason. But not sure. What would be the better option to have it switch to? 12v/24v or 11.6/23.2v?
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Last edited by mikeyb74; 07-26-2021 at 11:29 AM.. |
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07-26-2021, 12:41 PM | #105 |
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I've been running the setup I mentioned a few pages back for a while now (basically since the day I posted that). Car has spent days in my garage without being started or even opened (for upto three weeks in a row). No low battery issues or anything else. Been working perfectly. And it records every time the garage door is opened too. So yes.
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07-26-2021, 02:22 PM | #106 | |
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07-26-2021, 11:03 PM | #107 | |
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Your module only has 12v and 11.6v. I'd do 12v. Mine had a couple more. I think I've set mine to 12.4v. Can't remember for sure.
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07-27-2021, 05:11 AM | #108 | |
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09-21-2021, 12:32 AM | #109 |
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Is there any reason I'd ever use a slot (is that what they're called?) that's occupied by an existing fuse already when there appear to be so many empty unused slots in the car? It seems to me like using an empty one should always be better, since you won't modify the existing circuit (no chance that the add-a-fuse isn't working properly and somehow blows the existing fuse, or that you accidentally connect the two fuses in series rather than in parallel).
Trying to figure out how I should wire a battery pack for a dashcam into the fusebox. Seems like I'd probably want an empty ACC slot (not looking to drain the car's battery while the car is off). I simply plug in the add-a-fuse leaving the bottom fuse empty (since the port was unused before) and then plug like a 15A fuse into the top so I can get 9A from it, and then plug that into the the external battery pack (i.e. B-124X). Just checking with the more experienced folks around here. Am I missing anything here? |
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09-22-2021, 08:57 PM | #110 | |
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