[ruczko]

Originally Posted by VipinLJ

You mean JB+ vs JB4? Or JB+ vs Dinan? I have not had any experience with any Dinan products but I know for a fact that both JB+ and JB4 work well

JB+ vs Dinan Sport

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by ruczko

JB+ vs Dinan Sport

Ahh. No idea about those two. I know the JB+ works. Don't know how good or bad it is compared to the Dinan box.

[Merami fan]

Just plugged in a JB+ today and the turbos are definitely way more active. The noise is a bit awkward at low speeds, but I change out of sport plus in traffic anyway since it's a bit jerky when coasting at low speeds.

I used one of those flosser/toothpick things to get the little clip out... Worked pretty well. Plastic car, plastic tool
The clip in my car is off-white, though, not gray as some others have mentioned.

Any more insight regarding the increased boost at higher ambient temps? I'm fairly confident you can't really stress the B48/58 on public roads... I can't imagine driving normally in comfort mode is going to cause issues at any temps, JB+ or not. I've never seen the engine temp go above the middle line. Bouncing off the limiter, cruising over 100 mph... No sweat.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by Merami fan

Just plugged in a JB+ today and the turbos are definitely way more active. The noise is a bit awkward at low speeds, but I change out of sport plus in traffic anyway since it's a bit jerky when coasting at low speeds.

I used one of those flosser/toothpick things to get the little clip out... Worked pretty well. Plastic car, plastic tool
The clip in my car is off-white, though, not gray as some others have mentioned.

Any more insight regarding the increased boost at higher ambient temps? I'm fairly confident you can't really stress the B48/58 on public roads... I can't imagine driving normally in comfort mode is going to cause issues at any temps, JB+ or not. I've never seen the engine temp go above the middle line. Bouncing off the limiter, cruising over 100 mph... No sweat.

If you drive normally in comfort mode, you'll have zero issues.
In my car, with the JB4 and doing a LOT of WOT/high speed runs, the engine temp guage in the live cockpit doesn't go above half. No matter what. I'm more worried about the intake air temperature. When the ambient temp is around 70F, when I'm WOT or doing high speed runs, my IAT is around 120-130F. When I drive normally, it falls down to 105-110F. Our cars do heat soak too (I believe heat soak is the right term; I could be wrong). When it's hot outside, the car definitely feels slower. I've even timed it using dragy in different temps and I've noticed a 0.1-0.15s difference to the quarter mile (I know it's a small difference but it's a consistent one none the less). Car is definitely more lively in the cold.

[ruczko]

Originally Posted by VipinLJ

If you drive normally in comfort mode, you'll have zero issues.
In my car, with the JB4 and doing a LOT of WOT/high speed runs, the engine temp guage in the live cockpit doesn't go above half. No matter what. I'm more worried about the intake air temperature. When the ambient temp is around 70F, when I'm WOT or doing high speed runs, my IAT is around 120-130F. When I drive normally, it falls down to 105-110F. Our cars do heat soak too (I believe heat soak is the right term; I could be wrong). When it's hot outside, the car definitely feels slower. I've even timed it using dragy in different temps and I've noticed a 0.1-0.15s difference to the quarter mile (I know it's a small difference but it's a consistent one none the less). Car is definitely more lively in the cold.

How do you feel about keeping it at the max +4psi all the time - any issues with reliability for daily driving including some spirited take offs? I'm at sea level so not sure if that will help too.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by ruczko

How do you feel about keeping it at the max +4psi all the time - any issues with reliability for daily driving including some spirited take offs? I'm at sea level so not sure if that will help too.

I had it at 100% for months with zero issues. I think 100% is 4-4.5psi over stock. I ran my JB4 on map 3 which was 6psi over stock for ages and zero issues. Now I'm on a custom map 6 with even more boost and absolutely no issues so far.

[ruczko]

Originally Posted by VipinLJ

I had it at 100% for months with zero issues. I think 100% is 4-4.5psi over stock. I ran my JB4 on map 3 which was 6psi over stock for ages and zero issues. Now I'm on a custom map 6 with even more boost and absolutely no issues so far.

that's awesome, thanks for that. What kind of mileage have you put on ?

[bquatt]

Originally Posted by VipinLJ

I had it at 100% for months with zero issues. I think 100% is 4-4.5psi over stock. I ran my JB4 on map 3 which was 6psi over stock for ages and zero issues. Now I'm on a custom map 6 with even more boost and absolutely no issues so far.

Given that the B48 is a closed deck block, it's not surprising that it'd be able to handle a substantial amount of boost. The N20 was a different story and was more prone to failures from what I've read. Obviously only time will tell but I think as long as people are tuning properly these engines have a lot of untapped potential

I'm personally waiting for the Dinan Stage 1 flash as I think they're the best in the game. Maybe I'm drinking the kool aid but they just seem to have a reputation for quality, safe OEM + tunes.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by ruczko

that's awesome, thanks for that. What kind of mileage have you put on ?

Well. Not too much. I'm at 8640 miles right now. Been tuned from around 1200 miles. And the car has been driven hard. Lots of WOTs and high speed runs. Runs perfectly so far.

Originally Posted by bquatt

Given that the B48 is a closed deck block, it's not surprising that it'd be able to handle a substantial amount of boost. The N20 was a different story and was more prone to failures from what I've read. Obviously only time will tell but I think as long as people are tuning properly these engines have a lot of untapped potential

I'm personally waiting for the Dinan Stage 1 flash as I think they're the best in the game. Maybe I'm drinking the kool aid but they just seem to have a reputation for quality, safe OEM + tunes.

I agree. They've done well with the B48/58 engines. It also has more potential than the N20/55 engines from what I've read.
And yes. Tunes are better for the OEM+ feel. Like I've mentioned before, if there was a brick and mortar place near me that would remove the DME, bench unlock it and flash it, I'd have done it. But unfortunately none near where I live. Which is why I went the piggyback route. But no regrets so far. I'm very pleased!

[ruczko]

I looked at the instructions for the Dinan Sport and it looks like its attached to these two sensors... I'm not mechanical enough to understand what these would control but does that make any sense? Which one does the JB+ connect to and what would connecting to the other one do?

"identify the pressure sensor mounted to the intake charge pipe"

"locate the pressure sensor installed on the intake manifold, near the center-top of the engine."

https://documents.dinancars.com/d440-0047.pdf

[ruczko]

Originally Posted by ruczko

I looked at the instructions for the Dinan Sport and it looks like its attached to these two sensors... I'm not mechanical enough to understand what these would control but does that make any sense? Which one does the JB+ connect to and what would connecting to the other one do?

"identify the pressure sensor mounted to the intake charge pipe"

"locate the pressure sensor installed on the intake manifold, near the center-top of the engine."

https://documents.dinancars.com/d440-0047.pdf

Ok... is it possible that the sensor on the charge pipe simply allows the app to show real time boost? I think I may have found my answer but would appreciate confirmation.

[dr_frankfurter]

Originally Posted by g20beam

Okay here’s my update.

I have driven around with the JB+ for 4 days now and there is definitely a very noticeable difference in power. I was racing a 370z yesterday and I have HD dashcam footage I can post but I managed to keep up with it and close the gap while I was tailing him. It was too wet out so I was a little nervous to push it faster than I already did, but hopefully I can do it with another car in the future. The lower and mid level RPM ranges, approximately between 1K-4K RPM you definitely feel a lot more boost.

I used to drive with the manual mode a lot before the JB+ because the car would get really jerky in low gear + low rpm so I would try to get the vehicle to accelerate smoother instead of getting the jerk when in automatic + sport mode. After the JB+, the jerkiness problem went away. The power delivery is so much smoother now, I kind of wonder why they didn’t come like this from factory. It is so much more effortless to get to 80-100kmh range with the JB+, compared to stock when you would really have to floor it to get to that speed.

Other things I have noticed is that the brake pedal is more sensitive now than it used to be, and I feel more confident when going close to full throttle and slowing down after. Throttle response definitely has improved. The only one thing I noticed that freaked me out was a sudden push forward when I was pulling in manual gear and was in 2nd gear. It hasn’t happened again but it happened once and I don’t know what it was.

That’s about it, I will get a link of the dashcam footage up if anyone is interested in seeing this 370z

the numbers I've seen from a little $200 JB+ seem pretty appetizing... as someone who's done it, is it really just as simple as connecting the box and you're all set? How was your setup progress exactly? And any word if it affects the warranty? It would be a bit annoying to have to take it on and off every time I need to go get the car serviced at the dealer

[achk]

Originally Posted by dr_frankfurter

the numbers I've seen from a little $200 JB+ seem pretty appetizing... as someone who's done it, is it really just as simple as connecting the box and you're all set? How was your setup progress exactly? And any word if it affects the warranty? It would be a bit annoying to have to take it on and off every time I need to go get the car serviced at the dealer

It takes 1-2min to take on and off - it's truly is really easy. Considering routine servicing at dealer is usually done once a year, it really is no big deal. For me, I feel the difference most when I took it off around the time of servicing.

My dealer hasn't said anything about having a tune or voiding warranty (naturally one do not tell them that you run a piggyback on the car). But so far, I have had no problem after having it on the car for a bit over one year.

[dr_frankfurter]

Originally Posted by achk

It takes 1-2min to take on and off - it's truly is really easy. Considering routine servicing at dealer is usually done once a year, it really is no big deal. For me, I feel the difference most when I took it off around the time of servicing.

My dealer hasn't said anything about having a tune or voiding warranty (naturally one do not tell them that you run a piggyback on the car). But so far, I have had no problem after having it on the car for a bit over one year.

I've heard the same from others as well. If it's that simple then I can't complain about redoing it once a year lol. Looks like I'll have to get one and test it out!

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by dr_frankfurter

I've heard the same from others as well. If it's that simple then I can't complain about redoing it once a year lol. Looks like I'll have to get one and test it out!

Like achk mentioned, it hardly takes any time. 1-2mins is more than enough time to remove and reinstall it and then remove and reinstall it again! The first time I removed it, it took two minutes because the stock clip was jammed in tight and I didn't know how to remove it and broke the lock in the process. But I figured out how to do it and now, even for my JB4, one minute is more than enough to install all 3 connectors and route it.

[Knifeedge2k1]

Originally Posted by bquatt

Given that the B48 is a closed deck block, it's not surprising that it'd be able to handle a substantial amount of boost. The N20 was a different story and was more prone to failures from what I've read. Obviously only time will tell but I think as long as people are tuning properly these engines have a lot of untapped potential

I'm personally waiting for the Dinan Stage 1 flash as I think they're the best in the game. Maybe I'm drinking the kool aid but they just seem to have a reputation for quality, safe OEM + tunes.

Fwiw the closed deck helps with blown head gaskets but the ultimate limit is likely the rods on a B series (I don't think anyone considers a blown head gasket as "blowing" their engine)

B series all have forged cranks and the B58 has forced and cracked rods as well whereas the B48 and B46 make do with lesser spec rods. With the longer stroke compared with the N series the rods are likely the weakest link on the engine side of things. For a B58 the transmission becomes the weak link with some 600whp tuned cards experiencing tyranny issues and for the B48 it will be the rods for sure given the transmission is the same as the 40i cars but in order to get to that limit with 2 less cylinders your going to be pushing each route 50% harder. (assuming you upgraded your turbo, if you tried this with the stock turbo for sure that won't make it)

[bquatt]

Originally Posted by Knifeedge2k1

Fwiw the closed deck helps with blown head gaskets but the ultimate limit is likely the rods on a B series (I don't think anyone considers a blown head gasket as "blowing" their engine)

B series all have forged cranks and the B58 has forced and cracked rods as well whereas the B48 and B46 make do with lesser spec rods. With the longer stroke compared with the N series the rods are likely the weakest link on the engine side of things. For a B58 the transmission becomes the weak link with some 600whp tuned cards experiencing tyranny issues and for the B48 it will be the rods for sure given the transmission is the same as the 40i cars but in order to get to that limit with 2 less cylinders your going to be pushing each route 50% harder. (assuming you upgraded your turbo, if you tried this with the stock turbo for sure that won't make it)

Appreciate the comment; makes sense to me! However, I don't suspect a stage 1 tune would stress the internals beyond their limits. I could definitely see the rods becoming an issue if you get greedy, however.

[Knifeedge2k1]

Originally Posted by bquatt

Appreciate the comment; makes sense to me! However, I don't suspect a stage 1 tune would stress the internals beyond their limits. I could definitely see the rods becoming an issue if you get greedy, however.

absolutely

but honestly that wont happen until you're running over 400wheel which in my view is a pointless endeavour

B48 with a downpipe and a tune you're looking at 300whp, 330whp if you have e85 and/or run an aggressive meth setup with the stock turbo

if you want anything more from the engine you're looking at a turbo upgrade, for the cost/time/labor involved in this, you might as well sell the car, switch to a 40i model and again with just a downpipe + tune you're looking at 420 whp, closer to 450whp if you have ethanol/meth.

[Dp1429]

Hi everyone. I’m new to Bimmerpost and just bought my first BMW 330i. I just installed the JB+ and does anyone know if I am good if no alerts came on? If I installed while ECU was still on, would alerts pop up?

Thanks guys.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by Dp1429

Hi everyone. I’m new to Bimmerpost and just bought my first BMW 330i. I just installed the JB+ and does anyone know if I am good if no alerts came on? If I installed while ECU was still on, would alerts pop up?

Thanks guys.

By ECU still on, I assume you mean car was off and battery wasn't disconnected? You're good. I've been doing it that way for a while now and no issues.
What's the dial on the JB+ set to? Also, what octane fuel are you using?

[jjubinvi]

Drove a friends 330 with the JB+ installed (think dial was at 2 o'clock) and there was noticeable lag in sport mode compared to my stock 330. Is that typical? Would a "custom" map on JB4 solve for this?

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by jjubinvi

Drove a friends 330 with the JB+ installed (think dial was at 2 o'clock) and there was noticeable lag in sport mode compared to my stock 330. Is that typical? Would a "custom" map on JB4 solve for this?

The stock 330i is linear (I'm driving my car in stock form right now) in sport mode. With a JB+/JB4/any piggy back, there is boost added from around 2.5k rpms onwards. What happens then is that it feels like the car lifts up it's skirt and runs. Before that, the car feels exactly the same as it did stock. So yes. You feel the turbo producing more boost with a piggy back, which makes it feel like there's a lot of turbo lag before that (when it basically is the same as it was stock). I hope that makes sense.
And yes. A good flash tune should be able to get the car to produce boost everywhere (an OEM+ feel basically).

Edit - Just noticed you mentioned custom map on JB4. Well yes. With my map, there isn't much of a lag at all. It feels comparatively linear (you can obviously feel the boost build). But definitely not like a JB+. Car feels very smooth and fast too.