[falcon1411]

I did little bit of research, and seems these amps improve sound significantly. However most talks about it is upgrade from base sound system in the g20.

In my 2024 M340 I have the 16 speaker HK. If I were to get just the amp, will I "see" drastic improvement in volume and clarity? Or it will be a waste if I don't get the Alpha One speakers too.

thanks.

[JJKiii]

If you get the Bimmertech Alpha One amp (re-branded MatchUP 10 DSP) you will notice a substantial difference over the stock HK. I did this on my 2024 M340i although I also added their subs under the front seats. The weakest link in the G20 audio systems is the amp.

[Younge]

Originally Posted by JJKiii

If you get the Bimmertech Alpha One amp (re-branded MatchUP 10 DSP) you will notice a substantial difference over the stock HK. I did this on my 2024 M340i although I also added their subs under the front seats. The weakest link in the G20 audio systems is the amp.

Previously owned the matchup 8 for my m140i and on the fence about buying another one. What made you go bimmertech over matchup 10 and are you using their dsp?

Are you happy with the outcome and have any regrets?

[falcon1411]

Originally Posted by Younge

Previously owned the matchup 8 for my m140i and on the fence about buying another one. What made you go bimmertech over matchup 10 and are you using their dsp?

Are you happy with the outcome and have any regrets?

Alpha One and UP10 is same amp afaik, just rebranded.

Did you notice significant improvement when you got UP8 over stock?

Any thoughts on Ground Zero underseat subs?

[Younge]

Originally Posted by falcon1411

Alpha One and UP10 is same amp afaik, just rebranded.

Did you notice significant improvement when you got UP8 over stock?

Any thoughts on Ground Zero underseat subs?

"Did you notice significant improvement when you got UP8 over stock?" day and night. I paid for a sound engineer to create a DSP for my car and added an extra sub in the boot. All other speakers are oem.

My concern is the jump in price from matchup 8 to matchup 10.

[falcon1411]

Originally Posted by Younge

"Did you notice significant improvement when you got UP8 over stock?" day and night. I paid for a sound engineer to create a DSP for my car and added an extra sub in the boot. All other speakers are oem.

My concern is the jump in price from matchup 8 to matchup 10.

im willing to spend the 1500$ for the amp but im expecting SUBSTANTIAL improvement in HK, which I am pretty satisfied with. This better be comparable with higher end systems.

[Younge]

Originally Posted by falcon1411

im willing to spend the 1500$ for the amp but im expecting SUBSTANTIAL improvement in HK, which I am pretty satisfied with. This better be comparable with higher end systems.

Respectfully, this is subjective.
I would go and listen to one in person before laying down your own cash.

[I800C0LLECT]

Tuning is the only thing that will make a dramatic difference. If you don’t get help with that it can EASILY sound worse.

The best part of the 10 channel DSPamp is that you can tune for one seat. The factory HK is designed as a two seat tune. Logic 7 is the best DSP for two seat tune. However, the lack of a real subwoofer really hurt the OEM experience. I added an AudioFrog GB10 subwoofer and fixed that.

The next biggest issue with the factory HK is the mid and tweeters don’t have a decent set of passive crossovers. The mid plays ask the way up to 20KHz and the tweeter only has a 6 decibel slope at 4KHz.

Add a real subwoofer to factory and it sounds pretty amazing. If it’s still not good enough, then get the 10 channel dsp.

[falcon1411]

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

Tuning is the only thing that will make a dramatic difference. If you don’t get help with that it can EASILY sound worse.

The best part of the 10 channel DSPamp is that you can tune for one seat. The factory HK is designed as a two seat tune. Logic 7 is the best DSP for two seat tune. However, the lack of a real subwoofer really hurt the OEM experience. I added an AudioFrog GB10 subwoofer and fixed that.

The next biggest issue with the factory HK is the mid and tweeters don’t have a decent set of passive crossovers. The mid plays ask the way up to 20KHz and the tweeter only has a 6 decibel slope at 4KHz.




Add a real subwoofer to factory and it sounds pretty amazing. If it’s still not good enough, then get the 10 channel dsp.

I know next to nothing about car audio, or any other audio.

This crossover thing you speak of. can it be added to the HK?

Go with a real subwoofer in the trunk or upgrade the underseat ones?

[Ruebarb]

I agree with I800C0LLECT

Install a real sub in the trunk, all of these speaker upgrades and amp upgrades are trying to solve the simple problem of a lack of an actual sub, which they can not solve. They can improve sound, but installing a very overpriced DSP amp without an actual sub to control, makes no sense. Many just don't want to deal with a sub in the trunk, worth the inconvience.

[Luxy330]

I don't think you'll notice a dramatic difference by just upgrading the amp. The HK Surround is already a pretty decent upgrade from the base 676 HiFi, which is what I have in my 340ix. If you're not an audiophile who likes to tweak dsp/ sound stage settings, the standard 12 band equalizer in your HK should be more than sufficient. If you upgrade just the amp, you'll need someone to tune it and/ or ask Bimmertech for a tuning file that uses the stock speakers, if they have one. If you're just interested in more volume/ bass then, as suggested, upgrade to a woofer in the back and install a separate amp to power it.

[I800C0LLECT]

Attached a link for teaching. Sound isn’t independent of itself. Your brain can ascertain which sound waves belong with which initial sound. The second and third order effects of harmonics impact the rest of the music. Adding a sub will get rid of the harshness that’s perceived. I know it’s strange…but you’ll end up wanting a subwoofer anyways once you install the 10 channel DSP amplifier. So why not do the simple/cheaper option first?

https://testgear.audiofrog.com/wp-co...y-it-Works.pdf

[I800C0LLECT]

Originally Posted by falcon1411

I know next to nothing about car audio, or any other audio.

This crossover thing you speak of. can it be added to the HK?

Go with a real subwoofer in the trunk or upgrade the underseat ones?

Check my posts. I got a fiberglass eBay subwoofer box for the corner of my trunk.

Also, if you get a high pass filter w/third order filter (18dB slope) at 4KHz for the tweeter it’ll sound so much better. Then add a low pass filter for the midrange…4KHz and second order (12dB slope)

I got some from digital designs premade…

[Younge]

The matchup amps are plug and plug and give you the extra output for the sub.
I'm not a fan of cutting into oem cables and haven't found an adaptor that works.

Talking from experience, the matchup8 with the oem dsp from BMW made day and night difference. I can share my dsp for those who are interested.

[falcon1411]

bought matchup10 used for 800$ flat. waiting for delivery. comes with harness.

should have it installed on 27th.

[Eljefe25]

Originally Posted by falcon1411

bought matchup10 used for 800$ flat. waiting for delivery. comes with harness.

should have it installed on 27th.

Where did you find it for that price?

[falcon1411]

Originally Posted by Eljefe25

Where did you find it for that price?

Facebook g20 group.

[falcon1411]

Anyone know where i can find tuning files for this?

[phanamous]

Would adding an amp to power the stock subs (or better in-place replacements) works also? Trying to avoid adding one in the trunk if all possible. Thx.

I'm quite happy with the HK system in my 2024 M340ix. Surprised how good it sounds given all the gripes I've read on this board. Must have been better tuned for 2024 or something.
Just looking for easy low cost ways to improve it if they exist.

Wondering if the 2024MY will benefit from the filters you're adding to the tweeter and mids.

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

Tuning is the only thing that will make a dramatic difference. If you don’t get help with that it can EASILY sound worse.

The best part of the 10 channel DSPamp is that you can tune for one seat. The factory HK is designed as a two seat tune. Logic 7 is the best DSP for two seat tune. However, the lack of a real subwoofer really hurt the OEM experience. I added an AudioFrog GB10 subwoofer and fixed that.

The next biggest issue with the factory HK is the mid and tweeters don’t have a decent set of passive crossovers. The mid plays ask the way up to 20KHz and the tweeter only has a 6 decibel slope at 4KHz.

Add a real subwoofer to factory and it sounds pretty amazing. If it’s still not good enough, then get the 10 channel dsp.

[I800C0LLECT]

Originally Posted by phanamous

Would adding an amp to power the stock subs (or better in-place replacements) works also?

Trying to avoid adding one in the trunk if all possible. Thx.

Short answer, yes. But use the earthquake subwoofers.

Every speaker needs to be used based on its characteristics. A tweeter does not have the same requirements as a subwoofer…assume they’re opposite ends of a spectrum. But why? Because of the frequency they produce. 20KHz does not need near the power or air space to reproduce those very small sound waves. 20Hz will always require more air space and, logarithmically, much more power.

That said, almost all the drop in speakers respond about the same as the factory underseat woofers. There just isn’t enough air space in that cavity. It’s an issue with physics. Then there’s distortion…but humans are not very sensitive to distortion and in all double blind tests…the more distortion in subwoofers the better rating that speaker received. Distortion goes up considerably when you’re using a speaker at its limits. Our factory speakers are pushing the limits of their design.

But there is hope…at a cost. The earthquake subwoofers probably are the best drop in replacement. Power them with aftermarket and it should sound great!! So what do you lose? Mid-bass response. It doesn’t do as well from 100Hz to 200Hz. However, most won’t notice or care.

I added a high pass filter on the underseat woofers at 70Hz @ 24dB slope. That way I can save all that mechanical movement for higher output in my 70Hz to 200Hz playback. It gives me cleaner output at higher volumes since the speaker isn’t trying to be a subwoofer too(less stress) Then I added a real subwoofer in the trunk to handle 70Hz and down.

The best application of a subwoofer will have its cone mated to the interior. My bass sounds better with the rear center ski pass open. Car audio is about sacrifice. It’s extremely difficult to get perfect playback. There’s always a trade off.

[I800C0LLECT]

I just tested another application for anybody looking for an easy upgrade….

There’s very little information below 40Hz in most music. Amplify the underseat factory woofers and cut them off at 40Hz with a steep filter…high pass filter, 24dB slope.

It sounds great!