[anandn]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

Wow these are high end chargers. It kind of sucks that MH 48V requires special handling ....

I don’t know if it is needed. My car has been in storage for 2 months now in Florida and the CTEK MXS 5 shows that the battery is fully charged. It took about 24 hours to get to that stage. Last night I plugged in another CTEK charger to our Volvo XC60 PHEV and the charger is now at stage 7 (fully charged battery) after 12h.

I will know soon enough if the 48 v battery is fine or not. I believe it should be. It is a lithium ion battery and they have very low rates of discharge. Using high amperage chargers for a 12v battery seems like overkill to me. As for the sounds from the BMW, don’t quite know what’s with that unless the car is waking up every time it is approached when unlocked. Why BMW would design it this way i.e. requiring the hood to be open to charge a 12 v battery is beyond me.

[bavarianride]

Yeah I hope some M340i owners can confirm if this 48V issue is caused by charging when ignition is not yet off(that may explain why some are OK while others aren't).

And yes 25A likely may be stressful for 12V battery too.

My guess is that opening the hood disconnects the 48V battery/system.

Originally Posted by anandn

I don’t know if it is needed. My car has been in storage for 2 months now in Florida and the CTEK MXS 5 shows that the battery is fully charged. It took about 24 hours to get to that stage. Last night I plugged in another CTEK charger to our Volvo XC60 PHEV and the charger is now at stage 7 (fully charged battery) after 12h.

I will know soon enough if the 48 v battery is fine or not. I believe it should be. It is a lithium ion battery and they have very low rates of discharge. Using high amperage chargers for a 12v battery seems like overkill to me. As for the sounds from the BMW, don’t quite know what’s with that unless the car is waking up every time it is approached when unlocked. Why BMW would design it this way i.e. requiring the hood to be open to charge a 12 v battery is beyond me.

[JSaid]

Yeah agreed 25 amp might be overkill I'm desperate to get this working though with winter and snow/bad roads around the corner lol. Had mine sitting in the garage and didn't drive for like 5-6 days (was away) and when I came back, unlocking didn't turn on the lights and idrive was saying battery critically low. Took it for a drive and it charged a little but not enough to turn on the lights again. Attaching the mxs5 got it to a point where the lights turn on again but not full, the clicking started shortly after the lights came back. went on a longer drive after to bring it back up but a few days of not driving and I'm in the same spot.

I think I figured out why my battery was draining fast, I was leaving it locked in the garage. Security system maybe? Leaving it unlocked from now on and haven't seen the critically low issue again.

Going to try again with the ctek but wait for the car to go into sleep mode completely before charging and leaving the keys a little farther away to see if that makes a difference before the noco gets here

Since the bulletin on the last page mentioned that <20 amp chargers may not be sufficient figured that's probably the best shot. Nothing about it in the cars manual so if anything happens guessing it should be a warranty claim on the battery :/. Guess I'll be the Guinea pig lmao.

Does anyone know what AH our batteries are? I read 105ah in a different post but haven't found anything to confirm. If that's true I think 25amp should be ok since it's less than 25% of the total capacity? Correct me if I'm wrong I'm all google research haha

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by JSaid

Does anyone know what AH our batteries are?

Mine is 2021 330i and the factory-installed 12V battery is 70AH(I once removed the trunk floor panel to check). Online parts catalog shows 70/80/92/105AH as the replacement options.

I think M340i can take 80/82/105AH, u can remove trunk floor panel to check yours.

Yeah do retry mxs5 after the iDrive screen goes blank(except for park light and a few others).

[JSaid]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

Mine is 2021 330i and the factory-installed 12V battery is 70AH(I once removed the trunk floor panel to check). Online parts catalog shows 70/80/92/105AH as the replacement options.

I think M340i can take 80/82/105AH, u can remove trunk floor panel to check yours.

Yeah do retry mxs5 after the iDrive screen goes blank(except for park light and a few others).

Just tried again with no luck . Clicking and noises restarted after ~45 min so I took it off.

Just checked, I got 92ah. Maybe 25 amp isn't such a good idea then maybe should get one that's around 20

[anandn]

Originally Posted by JSaid

Just tried again with no luck . Clicking and noises restarted after ~45 min so I took it off.

Just checked, I got 92ah. Maybe 25 amp isn't such a good idea then maybe should get one that's around 20

Yeah the AH is supposedly 90 for the 440i.
According to the CTEK MXS 5 manual, it takes 12 h for a 60 AH battery to be 80% charged and 26h for a 110 AH battery. Expected times for a 5 amp charger.
My car’s hood is open and even though the doors are locked, the BMW app says that my car, 2023 440i convertible, is unlocked. You may just want to leave the CTEK plugged in for 24h. It took that long for mine to go to full charge.

[JSaid]

Originally Posted by anandn

Yeah the AH is supposedly 90 for the 440i.
According to the CTEK MXS 5 manual, it takes 12 h for a 60 AH battery to be 80% charged and 26h for a 110 AH battery. Expected times for a 5 amp charger.
My car’s hood is open and even though the doors are locked, the BMW app says that my car, 2023 440i convertible, is unlocked. You may just want to leave the CTEK plugged in for 24h. It took that long for mine to go to full charge.

So is it safe to say the clicking noises are normal and just ignore them(if you experienced it)? If so I'll just give this a shot and see what happens.

[anandn]

Originally Posted by JSaid

So is it safe to say the clicking noises are normal and just ignore them(if you experienced it)? If so I'll just give this a shot and see what happens.

I ignored the sounds when I left my car in my garage in Florida. I’m in NH now. It has been 2 months. CTEK charger says battery is charged and is at stage 7. It took 24 hours. I get weekly updates from a housekeeper. I plan to be in Florida next week and will report back on the status of my car.

[Teutonic]

Originally Posted by JSaid

So is it safe to say the clicking noises are normal and just ignore them(if you experienced it)? If so I'll just give this a shot and see what happens.

I disagree. I strongly believe that having those two things working while I am charging is not only abnormal but also futile in away as they are -obviously- consuming power and also affect my charging time. Why at BMW with the professional dealership charger the clicking noise is not there? Because it is not ok.

Do you believe that BMW designed the machine to click and buzz while charging, having some systems working around? I don’t think so.
Also, I don’t know how many of you studied the problem but after the electric buzzing noise at a certain time in the top central area (small plastic module), there is a clicking noise in the 48 V battery area and that is the time when the charger gets pushed back to the start cycle, exactly like you start charging again. That is not normal.

Of course I believe that 25 Ah charger is too much for the battery as a faster charge will affect battery life (faster charge produces heat, hence reduce battery life, etc.). I charged all my bimmers in the past with 5 Ah chargers (BMW trickle charger and Noco 5) and they all charged fine. Usually it takes, 4-5-6 hours, depends on the discharge level. If I am in Europe two months and come back, I put the charger on the X1 and it takes 4-5 hours to reach 100%.

I am susprised that it works for some, as I am surprised that in here a member claims that he is charging fine the MHT vehicle with Noco 10 without issues.

I have a Deltron BMW charger but fair enough is not for AGM.

I bought a Noco 5 works fine in my X1, My MHT X4 and my two Audis but it doesnt work on my M340i
I bought a Noco10 , same thing.
I am thinking Noco 25 however, I am not happy with one hour charge rate; is aggressive. Even if I can do that, the idea that BMW forces me to go beyond a normal regular Joe maintenance makes me mad.

So, I am disconnecting the trunk battery, connect the Noco 10 and in 3-4 hours is fully charged.

The problem is, the car sits and needs this procedure every two three months. And removing the trunk cover and accessing the trunk is a nightmare. Disconnecting the battery cable is also a nightmare.

Again, I have asked BMW for a resolution and never got a reply.

There is a problem that noone wants to talk about it and I want to find it. If is their bad design, Iwill gladly sue them to take the car back as not everyone is a tech savy and not everyone buys a car to sit with his head burried in the trunk every two months if he chooses such car as a toy.

Stupid

Se my thread here
https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1884955

[JSaid]

Originally Posted by Teutonic

I disagree. I strongly believe that having those two things working while I am charging is not only abnormal but also futile in away as they are -obviously- consuming power and also affect my charging time. Why at BMW with the professional dealership charger the clicking noise is not there? Because it is not ok.

Do you believe that BMW designed the machine to click and buzz while charging, having some systems working around? I don't think so.
Also, I don't know how many of you studied the problem but after the electric buzzing noise at a certain time in the top central area (small plastic module), there is a clicking noise in the 48 V battery area and that is the time when the charger gets pushed back to the start cycle, exactly like you start charging again. That is not normal.

Of course I believe that 25 Ah charger is too much for the battery as a faster charge will affect battery life (faster charge produces heating hence reduce battery life, etc.). I charged all my bimmers in the past with 5 Ah chargers (BMW trickle charger and Noco 5) and they all charged fine. Usually took, 4-5-6 hours, depends on the discharge level. If I am in Europe two months and come back, I put the charger on the X1 and it takes 4-5 hours to reach 100%.

I am susprised that it works for some, as I am surprised that ine member claims that he is charging fine the vehicle with Noco 10 without issues.

I have a Deltron BMW charger but fair enough is not for AGM.

I bought a Noco 5 works fine in my X1, My MHT X4 and my two Audis but it doesnt work on my M340i
I bought a Noco10 , same thing.
I am thinking Noco 25 however, I am not happy with one hour charge rate; is aggressive. Even if I can do that, the idea that BMW forces me to go beyond a normal maintenance makes me mad.

So, I am disconnecting the trunk battery, connect the Noco 10 and in 3-4 hours is fully charged.

The problem is, the car sits and needs this procedure every two three months. And removing the trunk cover and accessing the trunk is a nightmare. Disconnecting the battery cable is also a nightmare.

Again, I have asked BMW for a resolution and never got a reply.

There is a problem that noone wants to talk about it and I want to find it. If is their bad design, Iwill gladly sue them to take the car back as not everyone is a tech savy and not everyone buys a car to sit with his head burried in the trunk every two months if he chooses such car as a toy.

Stupid

Se my thread here
https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1884955

Yeah tbh this shouldn't even be our problem it should be clearly stated in the drivers manual or something. How do we know for sure though that the clicking isn't part of the battery management system and a normal part of charging? The service bulletin on a page or two back doesn't seem to mention anything harmful about trickle chargers under 20v just that they don't charge the 48v battery. Which is why battery level in idrive remains unchanged im guessing.

One thing I did notice is I had the battery management error pop up in Idrive once, and when it did I disconnected the charger while it was clicking. Since then I disconnect after all the noises stop and since then no errors have come up, which is starting to lead me to thing that although strange it's probably normal. The message could have just been an interrupted process

Did a quick google search and it seems like it's common for electric cars to make similar noises when charging so maybe it is normal?

Has anyone who experienced the clicking noise had actual trouble with their cars yet or is it just the warning messages?

[Teutonic]

Originally Posted by JSaid

Yeah tbh this shouldn't even be our problem it should be clearly stated in the drivers manual or something. How do we know for sure though that the clicking isn't part of the battery management system and a normal part of charging? The service bulletin on a page or two back doesn't seem to mention anything harmful about trickle chargers under 20v just that they don't charge the 48v battery. Which is why battery level in idrive remains unchanged im guessing.

One thing I did notice is I had the battery management error pop up in Idrive once, and when it did I disconnected the charger while it was clicking. Since then I disconnect after all the noises stop and since then no errors have come up, which is starting to lead me to thing that although strange it's probably normal. The message could have just been an interrupted process

Did a quick google search and it seems like it's common for electric cars to make similar noises when charging so maybe it is normal?

Has anyone who experienced the clicking noise had actual trouble with their cars yet or is it just the warning messages?

Just the fact that the charger is reset after each click tells me that is not normal. Some module refuses the charge for some reason.
ANY charger should not be reset to a start point again and again and again. Yeah, you might slowly forcefully charge the battery that way but that is absolutely not normal. Why, will a manufacturer puts some systems working while charging when the purpose of the charging is to have it done faster and safer. Think also that a charger calculates different things when charging the battery and any supplementary consumer will change chargers behaviour.

Again, I refuse to have some car elements working for days and pushing a forced charge on tha car when that should normally take 3-4-5 hours.

I really love my cars and all my batteries lasted at least 8 years.

[JSaid]

Originally Posted by Teutonic

Just the fact that the charger is reset after each click tells me that is not normal. Some module refuses the charge for some reason.
ANY charger should not be reset to a start point again and again and again. Yeah, you might slowly forcefully charge the battery that way but that is absolutely not normal. Why, will a manufacturer puts some systems working while charging when the purpose of it is to charge it faster and safer. Think also that a charger calculates different things when charging the battery and any supplementary consumer will remap chargers behaviour.

Again, I refuse to have some car elements working for days and pushing a forced charge on tha car when that should normally take 3-4-5 hours.

I really love my cars and all my batteries lasted at least 8 years.

Point I was trying to get at is how do you know that the clicking isn't part of the car's battery management system, to manage the heat from charging or something? Maybe the mild hybrids have a more complex battery management system? nothing has really proven to be an issue for me besides getting nervous from the clicking. The charger seems to be working and I haven't seen the itreset once, it's been in bulk charging I just disconnect because I hear the clicking and get nervous. The only Time I saw the warning was when I disconnected while the clicking was happening like I interrupted a process.

Either way if anything happened to the battery from following the drivers manual instructions on charging i bet it'll be a warranty replacement it's just a battery

[Teutonic]

Originally Posted by JSaid

Point I was trying to get at is how do you know that the clicking isn't part of the car's battery management system, to manage the heat from charging or something? Maybe the mild hybrids have a more complex battery management system? nothing has really proven to be an issue for me besides getting nervous from the clicking. The charger seems to be working and I haven't seen the itreset once, it's been in bulk charging I just disconnect because I hear the clicking and get nervous. The only Time I saw the warning was when I disconnected while the clicking was happening like I interrupted a process.

Either way if anything happened to the battery from following the drivers manual instructions on charging i bet it'll be a warranty replacement it's just a battery

1. My X4 is also a 2021 MHT and it doesnt do it. Some other MHT vehicles are also fine.
2. The dealership charger doesn’t do it on the same car and their in floor battery maintainer doesn’t do it either
3. Supplementary power consumers will literaly work against the rule of charging. If you can come up and tell me why we need a motor working while charging, I am all ears.
4. There is no heat building up in the middle/top of the engine from charging a battery in the trunk! The battery is the single unit that gets warm from charging.
5. The dealer tried all my chargers in brand new similar 340i from the lot and they behaved exactly the same. No explanation from any tech and my tech is the shop foreman as only him is allowed to work on my cars. I even went to another dealer for a second opinion. They are all baffled. Nobody has an official answer.
6. The charger gets back to reset starting the process form zero anytime the 48V electronic module clicks, which means that some condition is not met and the process is somehow refused.
7. I am not concerned about the battery as I am about the electronic modules on board ( and their cost)
8. My X4 is at his 3rd battery in one year. This vehicle is also under 1000 km but the battery got discharged and the elctronic module that is built inside the battery will not allow you to recharge under a certain voltage. WHY? Any older style battery could be charged from zero and able to live a full life. (Again, stupid, or money making?)
Second battery on my X4 got the same fate as one week of fully installing PPF they discharged my battery and the internal module refused any charging. I am on the third one which I paid for. Keep in mind that BMW can read if it was depleted or improperly charged, hence you are out of warranty.
9. I am very familiar with electronics as it is one of my fields and I can tell you for sure that the system can not be designed that way

I am at the point where I am really pissed about this…

[anandn]

Originally Posted by Teutonic

Just the fact that the charger is reset after each click tells me that is not normal. Some module refuses the charge for some reason.
ANY charger should not be reset to a start point again and again and again. Yeah, you might slowly forcefully charge the battery that way but that is absolutely not normal. Why, will a manufacturer puts some systems working while charging when the purpose of the charging is to have it done faster and safer. Think also that a charger calculates different things when charging the battery and any supplementary consumer will change chargers behaviour.

Again, I refuse to have some car elements working for days and pushing a forced charge on tha car when that should normally take 3-4-5 hours.

I really love my cars and all my batteries lasted at least 8 years.

The CTEK MXS 5 I’m using hasn’t reset itself except after one power outage a few weeks back. Then it cycled back from bulk charging phase 3 to stage 7, fully charged within 24 hours, same as the first time. From what I’ve read, this is normal behavior for the charger.

Because I haven’t seen my car for 2 months, I don’t know if the car is still running something, software or hardware, while being charged but I’ll soon find out if it is to the car’s detriment. I don’t plan to drive my car all year but only when I’m in Florida for 5-6 months. I don’t want to keep a car where it is a hassle just to keep the 12v battery charged. If that’s the case, I’ll sell it and get another convertible.

[tcbmhell]

I gave up charging my MY2021 X5 because of the click and buzz while charging.

Once after I tried to charge it for 12 hours, all my idrive settings were reset. There must be something wrong. I was concerned about the electronic modules because the car seems to keep cycling through sleep and wake.

Originally Posted by Teutonic

1. My X4 is also a 2021 MHT and it doesnt do it. Some other MHT vehicles are also fine.
2. The dealership charger doesn’t do it on the same car and their in floor battery maintainer doesn’t do it either
3. Supplementary power consumers will literaly work against the rule of charging. If you can come up and tell me why we need a motor working while charging, I am all ears.
4. There is no heat building up in the middle/top of the engine from charging a battery in the trunk! The battery is the single unit that gets warm from charging.
5. The dealer tried all my chargers in brand new similar 340i from the lot and they behaved exactly the same. No explanation from any tech and my tech is the shop foreman as only him is allowed to work on my cars. I even went to another dealer for a second opinion. They are all baffled. Nobody has an official answer.
6. The charger gets back to reset starting the process form zero anytime the 48V electronic module clicks, which means that some condition is not met and the process is somehow refused.
7. I am not concerned about the battery as I am about the electronic modules on board ( and their cost)
8. My X4 is at his 3rd battery in one year. This vehicle is also under 1000 km but the battery got discharged and the elctronic module that is built inside the battery will not allow you to recharge under a certain voltage. WHY? Any older style battery could be charged from zero and able to live a full life. (Again, stupid, or money making?)
Second battery on my X4 got the same fate as one week of fully installing PPF they discharged my battery and the internal module refused any charging. I am on the third one which I paid for. Keep in mind that BMW can read if it was depleted or improperly charged, hence you are out of warranty.
9. I am very familiar with electronics as it is one of my fields and I can tell you for sure that the system can not be designed that way

I am at the point where I am really pissed about this…

[Teutonic]

Originally Posted by JSaid

Been having the same problems as everyone else with the ticks and clicking etc with ctek mxs5.

Just ordered NOCO Geniuspro25 off Amazon and gonna give it a try with 25 amps to see if it charges to full. Can use 5 amp mode for trickle charging too when the 48 volt is disconnected. 30% off for cyber Monday too

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUSPR.../dp/B08Q2WD66S

Hey man, I am waiting for your updates in regards to the Noco 25 charger. Did you have the chance to look into it? Just wanted to see the car’s behaviour on this case.

[zazzau]

Originally Posted by JSaid

Yeah agreed 25 amp might be overkill I'm desperate to get this working though with winter and snow/bad roads around the corner lol. Had mine sitting in the garage and didn't drive for like 5-6 days (was away) and when I came back, unlocking didn't turn on the lights and idrive was saying battery critically low. Took it for a drive and it charged a little but not enough to turn on the lights again. Attaching the mxs5 got it to a point where the lights turn on again but not full, the clicking started shortly after the lights came back. went on a longer drive after to bring it back up but a few days of not driving and I'm in the same spot.

I think I figured out why my battery was draining fast, I was leaving it locked in the garage. Security system maybe? Leaving it unlocked from now on and haven't seen the critically low issue again.

Going to try again with the ctek but wait for the car to go into sleep mode completely before charging and leaving the keys a little farther away to see if that makes a difference before the noco gets here

Since the bulletin on the last page mentioned that <20 amp chargers may not be sufficient figured that's probably the best shot. Nothing about it in the cars manual so if anything happens guessing it should be a warranty claim on the battery :/. Guess I'll be the Guinea pig lmao.

Does anyone know what AH our batteries are? I read 105ah in a different post but haven't found anything to confirm. If that's true I think 25amp should be ok since it's less than 25% of the total capacity? Correct me if I'm wrong I'm all google research haha

I use a 25 Amp and it gets the job done when needed. I use CTEK Multi US 25000; it's also pricey but not as expensive as the one in the link you shared. I got a deal for $100 at the time. I've been away for 2 months at a time (car locked) and never needed to charge. I only charge prior to coding my car; once it's fully charged I then set the charger to hold/maintain the charge while I'm coding. Otherwise my battery holds up well.

Just make sure the hood is not latched when charging. I also leave my door unlocked — have no idea if that makes a difference.

[zazzau]

Originally Posted by anandn

Why BMW would design it this way i.e. requiring the hood to be open to charge a 12 v battery is beyond me.

Read the fist post in the link below — I shared it earlier. It will answer your question:

48V Mild Hybrid Electronics https://g07.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1781421

[Teutonic]

Originally Posted by zazzau

I use a 25 Amp and it gets the job done when needed. I use CTEK Multi US 25000; it's also pricey but not as expensive as the one in the link you shared. I got a deal for $100 at the time. I've been away for 2 months at a time (car locked) and never needed to charge. I only charge prior to coding my car; once it's fully charged I then set the charger to hold/maintain the charge while I'm coding. Otherwise my battery holds up well.

Just make sure the hood is not latched when charging. I also leave my door unlocked — have no idea if that makes a difference.

Your link is a little bit confusing as the guy “was told “ that hood latched willcharge the 12 V battery.
Anyway, 25 Ah is still aggressive for the battery and shortens the lifespam. Kept my bimmers for decades with 5 Ah chargers with zero problems and 8 plus years on battery life.
All I want to do is charge my battery with a 5 Ah charger. Slower and safer. i can not and will probably trigger me to sell my vehicle as I am really annoyed by this. Doesnt matter how modern a car is, you as a manufacturer should make sure that my battery lasts and that Idont need to stay like an emu with my head burried under a hood or trunk every month. Not lastly, MANY do not have a garage, hence don’t have the option of leaving the car with the hood and drivers door open to charge a shitty car. This is the first vehicle that reauires so much attention. If they design it that way, then I am willing to let it go even if I loose money. I was willing to accept a hood open somehow once in a while but this is too much for me to take…

[JSaid]

Originally Posted by Teutonic

Hey man, I am waiting for your updates in regards to the Noco 25 charger. Did you have the chance to look into it? Just wanted to see the car's behaviour on this case.

Shipping got delayed on it should be here Monday and I can give an update on if it works. I tried the mxs5 again, no luck. Clicking started up again after about 45 minutes and I let it keep charging for another hour or so. After that the clicking got more prominent along with a few new sounds that sounded like switches flicking or something so I disconnected and gave up.

Have been second guessing whether to try it or not as well since my batteries a 92AH. 25 may be overkill

[Teutonic]

Originally Posted by JSaid

Shipping got delayed on it should be here Monday and I can give an update on if it works. I tried the mxs5 again, no luck. Clicking started up again after about 45 minutes and I let it keep charging for another hour or so. After that the clicking got more prominent along with a few new sounds that sounded like switches flicking or something so I disconnected and gave up.

Have been second guessing whether to try it or not as well since my batteries a 92AH. 25 may be overkill

Go ti the trunk, reach the battery, disconnect one of the cables, put it aside to make sure there is no touch. Connect the charger to the battery poles and charge it that way. 3-4 hours should suffice to top it off; eventually leave it overnight as it goes in maintenance anyway.
Disconnect charger, connect cable back and you are good to go. I am doing it for a year now as I am not home and all my cars are sitting…

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by Teutonic

Go ti the trunk, reach the battery, disconnect one of the cables, put it aside to make sure there is no touch. Connect the charger to the battery poles and charge it that way. 3-4 hours should suffice to top it off; eventually leave it overnight as it goes in maintenance anyway.
Disconnect charger, connect cable back and you are good to go. I am doing it for a year now as I am not home and all my cars are sitting…

You never want to do that since you are bypassing the IBS. You could end up shortening your battery life as well as having problems with electronics.