[VipinLJ]

Hello

I have a 2020 G20 330i that is out of warranty. As luck would have it, the driver's side outer rear view mirror and active shutter flaps have failed.

I'll list issues:

1. Driver's side ORVM

It cannot be folded in or adjusted. Passenger side had that issue for a few hours but it fixed itself. Driver's side has been out for weeks now. I'd like to get it fixed. I assume it's the module in the mirror. Has anyone swapped it out? I've found the module online but I was wondering if it's just a simple swap or if it needs something more (like removing door pads, drilling etc).

2. Active shutter failed

Yesterday my CEL came on. I knew it was the active shutter and scanned my car. The code I got was 138225. I believe it's the upper active flap shutter. The lower one keeps failing occasionally. I've got codes for that before too but I clear it and it goes away. Is it just a simple motor swap or would it be something else? Has anyone DIY-ed it?

I don't want to take it in to the service center because I'm sure they'll charge like $10k to fix both issues since I'm out of warranty.

Any inputs will be appreciated.

[Delighted_Jester]

What did you do to have both of these problems? Id defintely scan with ista before throwing parts at it. If the shutters have to be replaced, the bumper needs to come off. Its not that difficult. But the shutters are very fragile and expensive. The shutter failure doesnt surprise me. As for your mirrors; if not BDC related, ive heard of water intrusion causing problems for G20 mirrors.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by Delighted_Jester

What did you do to have both of these problems? Id defintely scan with ista before throwing parts at it. If the shutters have to be replaced, the bumper needs to come off. Its not that difficult. But the shutters are very fragile and expensive. The shutter failure doesnt surprise me. As for your mirrors; if not BDC related, ive heard of water intrusion causing problems for G20 mirrors.

We had very heavy rains where I live a few weeks back. My car was parked outside in the rain. The very next day, the mirrors conked out. So yes. Water intrusion it is. I'll probably take the mirror out tomorrow and see if I can disconnect the module under the mirror cap. If I can, I'll order the module and see if that fixes it.

Regarding the grill. Again. I had it throw up codes for the lower active flap but the dealership cleared it and the grill seemed to work even though it threw up codes. No CEL back then. The CEL popped up for the first time a couple of days before I wrote the opening post. I can clear it and it goes away for a few hours before popping back up. Same 138225 code. Funny thing is both the grills open and close (confirmed by looking at both grills - since it's almost 90°F here, the grill is open when the engine is on and it closes when it is off). There are no other codes other than that.

Edit - you said scan with ISTA. Does it show exactly what the issue is? Or will it just show the same codes as with any other reader. I've never used ISTA so no idea how it works.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by Rch34801

I had it throw up codes for the lower active flap but the dealership cleared it and the grill seemed to work even though it threw up codes.

I think the lower active flap on mine is stuck open. The CEL is annoying. I can clear it and it'll pop back up after like 10-15 mins. I wouldn't have bothered but remote start doesn't work when the CEL is on.

And weirdly. My mirror issue seems to have fixed itself today after almost three weeks of not working.

[Delighted_Jester]

Originally Posted by VipinLJ

I think the lower active flap on mine is stuck open. The CEL is annoying. I can clear it and it'll pop back up after like 10-15 mins. I wouldn't have bothered but remote start doesn't work when the CEL is on.

And weirdly. My mirror issue seems to have fixed itself today after almost three weeks of not working.

As for scanning with ista, the reason i said it is you can test the lower and upper flaps. Ista may also show other less minor codes that a normal code reader may not see that could be related to the shutter CEL. If you hit activate shutters and there is no movement then its an issue with the motor most likely. Ive read about it a few times. And for the mirrors, i have heard that the mirror caps can allow water into the assembly.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by Delighted_Jester

As for scanning with ista, the reason i said it is you can test the lower and upper flaps. Ista may also show other less minor codes that a normal code reader may not see that could be related to the shutter CEL. If you hit activate shutters and there is no movement then its an issue with the motor most likely. Ive read about it a few times. And for the mirrors, i have heard that the mirror caps can allow water into the assembly.

So. All of a sudden, my mirror started working again. My car probably found out I posted this here and decided it should fix that issue.

CEL is still on. The upper active flaps work. I can see it open and close (closed when car is off; open when car has been driven for a bit and engine is still running). The lower one is always open though. I believe that's the one that is stuck.

I'm taking it to a local garage tomorrow. Hopefully he has ISTA or something since he works on European cars and mods it too. If he has it, I'll ask him if he can code it out for me.

I unfortunately don't have ISTA and don't know anyone who has it.

[Delighted_Jester]

Originally Posted by VipinLJ

So. All of a sudden, my mirror started working again. My car probably found out I posted this here and decided it should fix that issue.

CEL is still on. The upper active flaps work. I can see it open and close (closed when car is off; open when car has been driven for a bit and engine is still running). The lower one is always open though. I believe that's the one that is stuck.

I'm taking it to a local garage tomorrow. Hopefully he has ISTA or something since he works on European cars and mods it too. If he has it, I'll ask him if he can code it out for me.

I unfortunately don't have ISTA and don't know anyone who has it.

The fact you see it open even with the car off is most likely the problem. If he is a legit euro guy he will have ista but any high end code reader will do just about anything ista can do. I am very interested to hear what the repair ends up being.
You can get ista for free and just simply purchase a cable the internet.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by Delighted_Jester

The fact you see it open even with the car off is most likely the problem. If he is a legit euro guy he will have ista but any high end code reader will do just about anything ista can do. I am very interested to hear what the repair ends up being.
You can get ista for free and just simply purchase a cable the internet.

So he used his tool (he told me the name of the software but I forgot what it was). He could open and close the lower active flaps but it wasn't hitting the stop point I believe. And he said he didn't have the cable for the new G20s but his friend at the garage right next to his had ISTA. He said the guy will order the cable and let me know because coding it out with his generic software wouldn't work. The guy who scanned my car works mainly on VAG cars (mainly Porsche, Audis and VWs).
So the motor works fine (I assumed it would since the upper active flaps work perfectly). He tested the lower ones a few times and tried moving it around a bit. There's no CEL now but it throws a 138224 code now (it was 138225 and a CEL) before. I searched online for the lower flaps and found a few dealership parts places selling it for like $160-170 before shipping and taxes.
I'm trying to find a remote coder to do it for me since I've never used ISTA and I'm scared I'll brick my car.
Since there's no CEL right now, I don't mind. My main issue was CEL preventing remote start and now I can remote start it. The lower flaps is open so I don't have to worry about cooling issues.

The ORVM works fine now. No issues and apparently no codes related to it were found when he scanned my car. The next time it fails (which could be any time now), I'll try getting it scanned again and if it's just the module, I'll probably swap that out as well.

[pdxdbo]

Originally Posted by VipinLJ

So the motor works fine (I assumed it would since the upper active flaps work perfectly). He tested the lower ones a few times and tried moving it around a bit. There's no CEL now but it throws a 138224 code now (it was 138225 and a CEL) before. I searched online for the lower flaps and found a few dealership parts places selling it for like $160-170 before shipping and taxes.

I’m in the same boat with the ASG CEL and lower flaps that are open at all times. Can you share the part number for the lower flaps? I think I’m gonna dissassble and reassemble the unit and see if it’s simply stuck as opposed to requiring replacement.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by pdxdbo

I’m in the same boat with the ASG CEL and lower flaps that are open at all times. Can you share the part number for the lower flaps? I think I’m gonna dissassble and reassemble the unit and see if it’s simply stuck as opposed to requiring replacement.

I believe it is Radiator Shutter Assembly - BMW (51-74-5-A22-C64). Realoem showed a different part number but that has apparently been updated to this and the old one isn't available anymore.

If you do disassemble and reassemble it yourself, let me know how it goes. Someone said I'd have to take out the entire bumper and I'm pretty sure I'm not skilled enough for that. If it doesn't require that and is something that isn't too difficult, I might try that too.

[pdxdbo]

Originally Posted by VipinLJ

Someone said I'd have to take out the entire bumper and I'm pretty sure I'm not skilled enough for that. If it doesn't require that and is something that isn't too difficult, I might try that too.

Thanks for the part number. I assumed the bumper would have to come off, which I’m thinking about doing anyway to swap in the yellow drl boards. I’ll post back if/when I give it a go.

[VipinLJ]

Originally Posted by pdxdbo

Thanks for the part number. I assumed the bumper would have to come off, which I’m thinking about doing anyway to swap in the yellow drl boards. I’ll post back if/when I give it a go.

Ahh. If you're taking the bumper out, might as well try and work on the flaps since it'll be a two-birds-one-stone kinda situation.

[G20Owens]

Hey guys,

Need some help to diagnose this problem.
A couple of weeks ago I was low on gas, should've stopped immediately to get more but was in a rush so I figured I would stop on the way to where I was headed. As I merged onto the highway I hit the gas to get in front of a car & the car sputtered and gave me a drive train malfunction message. The car then went into safety mode and was at reduced performance because of it. I was still able to drive it to where I had to be. I refilled the tank with 91 & added some stabilizer incase any moisture had built up in the tank because it was low. The car then wouldn't crank over, it would try for 3-4 seconds, start and then immediately choke out and die. When it did turn over it would sputter at idle and was noticeably shaky..

From my research this pointed to two issues, spark plugs or fuel pump.

I replaced the spark plugs with OEM's and the car was noticeably more efficient in the initial crank to turn over but would still sputter at idle and would die 4/5 times when I tried to start the car. My neighbor brought me over his code reader which showed care was getting either too much air or not enough gas. So that lead me to the fuel pump, maybe something had either clogged it or it malfunctioned due to being low. It was giving some indication that maybe the car wasn't getting enough fuel or too much air, and was causing a misfire. I replaced the low pressure fuel pump thinking this would fix the problem. (with Genuine OEM part that came off a 2020 G20 with 20k miles). After replacing the low pressure fuel pump (located in the gas tank) the car will now start and idle fine, but will still enter safety mode once it starts and shows error message for drivetrain. When I rev up to 2-3000 rpm it doesn't give me any issues but as I let off the gas, it will sputter out, drop below 1000rpm and die. I'm going to have my neighbor check what code its giving now, and I've been told the ignition coil(s) may have malfunctioned. Just want more opinion before I finally budge and take it in. Would really like to avoid a $1000 fix if possible and something that I can do myself relatively easily.

THANKS EVERYONE IN ADVANCE!!!