[anandn]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

You are misunderstanding what I'm asking, your phone has nothing to do with it. The vehicle has a cell connection that is used for the emergency calling, real-time traffic, searching within navigation, calling concierge, etc. If the are not available then a bad TCU could be one of the reasons. Could also be that BMW servers are having an issue or the cell connection is down. Try restarting iDrive (push and hold in the volume button for 30 seconds. It is easiest to do while driving since you will get the feedback of the CID going black to signify the reboot has started) and see if the message goes away. If it continues then you will want to take it in to get looked at. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Oh I see what you are asking. I did reboot idrive while the car is stationary in my garage but still get the same error. The BMW app is also not refreshing either on my iPhone. It still shows car settings from October 8 when I left the car in storage. I will drive the car tomorrow and try rebooting idrive while driving. Could be BMW's servers. I've had similar issues with my Volvos. Mostly a nuisance. Thanks.

[anandn]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

You are misunderstanding what I'm asking, your phone has nothing to do with it. The vehicle has a cell connection that is used for the emergency calling, real-time traffic, searching within navigation, calling concierge, etc. If the are not available then a bad TCU could be one of the reasons. Could also be that BMW servers are having an issue or the cell connection is down. Try restarting iDrive (push and hold in the volume button for 30 seconds. It is easiest to do while driving since you will get the feedback of the CID going black to signify the reboot has started) and see if the message goes away. If it continues then you will want to take it in to get looked at. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

I drove my car today and all seems fine. Car started up and ran flawlessly except for the emergency call malfunction error. I called BMW and the 'genius' at their end suggested that I make an appointment with the dealer. (I was also asked not to reboot idrive too many times.) So I called the local dealer and made an appointment for Monday.
TCU malfunctioning seems like a common problem with all BMWs. Another thing I learnt today about these cars. I will post an update after the service department has taken a look. With my 2022 Volvos and their new Android auto, connectivity used to be a problem but software updates solved those issues and I haven't had any more trouble except intermittently. I read that some folks had to have their TCU replaced multiple times in their BMWs. I hope that is not the case?

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by anandn

I drove my car today and all seems fine. Car started up and ran flawlessly except for the emergency call malfunction error. I called BMW and the 'genius' at their end suggested that I make an appointment with the dealer. (I was also asked not to reboot idrive too many times.) So I called the local dealer and made an appointment for Monday.
TCU malfunctioning seems like a common problem with all BMWs. Another thing I learnt today about these cars. I will post an update after the service department has taken a look. With my 2022 Volvos and their new Android auto, connectivity used to be a problem but software updates solved those issues and I haven't had any more trouble except intermittently. I read that some folks had to have their TCU replaced multiple times in their BMWs. I hope that is not the case?

Let us know what the dealer says, hopefully all will be well without too much hassle.

Best to take what the folks at Genius say with a grain of salt. Interesting the person said that though, they usually suggest rebooting iDrive as a way to get folks off the phone since they rarely have a clue as to what the solution to the problem is.

Good luck

[anandn]

Originally Posted by wojtuswojtus

Dealership told me MHT bmw can only be properly charged with minimum 20 Amp or more 12 Volt charger. I noticed cars at the dealership are being charged 2 hours daily with charger more than 20 Amp. No engine noises. Once the car is charged they disconnect.

I bought 25 Amp charger and connected and it was charging for almost 1 hour to full. I disconnected and then connected 10 Amp Noco for longer storage. I am not mechanic but this seems to charge 48 volt battery. Good luck. I was afraid to leave car connected to 25 Amp for longer storage. So once the car was charged, Noco seems to maintain the charge. Read the bulletin from BMW. The bulletin doesn’t say that a 5 amp charger can’t be used. Only that the 22 v battery won’t be charged if the hood is closed and that the 48 v battery won’t be charged with a 5 amp charger. I don’t worry about the latter because Li ion batteries discharge slowly at a rate of 2-3% a month.
I am just learning this....as I am not a bmw specialist.

My car was fine with a 5 amp CTEK charger and hood unlatched. Noises under the hood? I ignored them. I plan to only drive my car 5-6 months when I’m in Florida and can’t store a car with a 20 amp charger hooked to it for that long. I’ve always used CTEK chargers for my Porsches for months on end to keep the 12 v battery topped up. I may sell the new car if if doesn’t suit my needs. Can’t babysit a car.
BMW’s bulletin doesn’t say that a 5 amp charger won’t charge the 12 v battery. Only that the hood must be unlatched and that the 48 v battery may not be charged. I don’t worry about the latter because Li ion batteries discharge very slowly at 2-3% a month.

[anandn]

Originally Posted by wojtuswojtus

Dealership told me MHT bmw can only be properly charged with minimum 20 Amp or more 12 Volt charger. I noticed cars at the dealership are being charged 2 hours daily with charger more than 20 Amp. No engine noises. Once the car is charged they disconnect.

I bought 25 Amp charger and connected and it was charging for almost 1 hour to full. I disconnected and then connected 10 Amp Noco for longer storage. I am not mechanic but this seems to charge 48 volt battery. Good luck. I was afraid to leave car connected to 25 Amp for longer storage. So once the car was charged, Noco seems to maintain the charge. Read the bulletin from BMW.
I am just learning this....as I am not a bmw specialist.

The bulletin also says that a 10 amp charger won’t charge the 48 v battery just like a 5 amp battery. I had no problems charging the 12 battery except that the car was never in sleep mode and was always running something in the background. Didn’t hurt after 2 months from what I can tell.

[zazzau]

Originally Posted by anandn

The bulletin also says that a 10 amp charger won’t charge the 48 v battery just like a 5 amp battery. I had no problems charging the 12 battery except that the car was never in sleep mode and was always running something in the background. Didn’t hurt after 2 months from what I can tell.

That’s not entirely accurate though. The bulletin is referring to the 48v battery — which you typically won’t charge directly. I think there’s a misinterpretation of the bulletin.

Yes I use a 25A that works well but we’ve seen reports of 5A also working for others. I also think most people with 5A trickle chargers put it in AGM mode which should only charge the 12v battery anyway.

[anandn]

Originally Posted by zazzau

That’s not entirely accurate though. The bulletin is referring to the 48v battery — which you typically won’t charge directly. I think there’s a misinterpretation of the bulletin.

Yes I use a 25A that works well but we’ve seen reports of 5A also working for others. I also think most people with 5A trickle chargers put it in AGM mode which should only charge the 12v battery anyway.

I was referring to these statements in the bulletin.

Important: Trickle chargers (< 20-amp output) or solar chargers will not be able to charge the 48 V battery, but could prevent further discharge to the 48 V battery when the 12 V battery is properly maintained to optimal SOC.

The 48 V battery does NOT charge when using a 12 V battery charger with the hood closed. When charging the vehicle using a 12 V battery charger, the 48 V battery is ONLY able to charge with the hood open.

I interpret these statements to mean that 5 amp and 10 amp chargers will not charge the 48v battery when hood is open (condition for charging the 12v battery using a 5 amp charger). Not that it, the 48 v Li ion battery, needs to be charged that way. But maintaining the 12v battery with a charger will prevent discharge of the 48 v battery when idle.

I used the CTEk in AGM mode with the hood unlatched and the 12 v battery charged up fine but for all the commotion under the hood. This car is too smart for me.

[zazzau]

Originally Posted by anandn

I was referring to these statements in the bulletin.

Important: Trickle chargers (< 20-amp output) or solar chargers will not be able to charge the 48 V battery, but could prevent further discharge to the 48 V battery when the 12 V battery is properly maintained to optimal SOC.

The 48 V battery does NOT charge when using a 12 V battery charger with the hood closed. When charging the vehicle using a 12 V battery charger, the 48 V battery is ONLY able to charge with the hood open.

I interpret these statements to mean that 5 amp and 10 amp chargers will not charge the 48v battery when hood is open (condition for charging the 12v battery using a 5 amp charger). Not that it, the 48 v Li ion battery, needs to be charged that way. But maintaining the 12v battery with a charger will prevent discharge of the 48 v battery when idle.

I used the CTEk in AGM mode with the hood unlatched and the 12 v battery charged up fine but for all the commotion under the hood. This car is too smart for me.

Correct. My point is the bulletin doesn’t necessarily imply not being able to charge the battery with 5A. Most of us here are interested in charging the 12v battery. But many can’t even get it to work - which is why the thread was started in the first place. The Li ion battery is a different matter altogether because you’d need to fully charge the AGM battery first to keep the Li ion juiced.

[anandn]

Originally Posted by zazzau

Correct. My point is the bulletin doesn’t necessarily imply not being able to charge the battery with 5A. Most of us here are interested in charging the 12v battery. But many can’t even get it to work - which is why the thread was started in the first place. The Li ion battery is a different matter altogether because you’d need to fully charge the AGM battery first to keep the Li ion juiced.

Many can't get a 5 amp CTEK charger to work? I don't know. It seems to me that many are spooked by the charger getting hot in the bulk charging phase (normal according to CTEK) or that it takes too long to get to full charge. But it is a 90 AH battery and should take 16 hours to get to 80% according to the manual.
Many are spooked by all the noise from the engine bay. The charger gets disconnected and the conclusion is that it doesn't work. I didn't do anything special to get my charger to charge the 12 v battery. I hooked it up, left the hood unlatched, locked the car and ignored the noise from the engine bay.

[zazzau]

Originally Posted by anandn

Many can't get a 5 amp CTEK charger to work? I don't know. It seems to me that many are spooked by the charger getting hot in the bulk charging phase (normal according to CTEK) or that it takes too long to get to full charge. But it is a 90 AH battery and should take 16 hours to get to 80% according to the manual.
Many are spooked by all the noise from the engine bay. The charger gets disconnected and the conclusion is that it doesn't work. I didn't do anything special to get my charger to charge the 12 v battery. I hooked it up, left the hood unlatched, locked the car and ignored the noise from the engine bay.

You might have to spend some time reading the thread. There are some legitimate posts here about leaving it plugged despite the noise but still no luck getting it charged. It’s not as easy as saying folks are “spooked” especially when that experience doesn’t translate to other modern models, some of which are more powerful than the G20. It might be worth familiarizing yourself with the issues on this thread.

To add to the twist: there are others who don’t hear a persistent clicking sound after plugging in a 5A. So experiences tend to vary wildly here and it’s easy to understand why some people are frustrated.

Anyway my point is that the bulletin you cited isn’t that relevant because it doesn’t really address the customer’s complaint.

[anandn]

Originally Posted by zazzau

You might have to spend some time reading the thread. There are some legitimate posts here about leaving it plugged despite the noise but still no luck getting it charged. It’s not as easy as saying folks are “spooked” especially when that experience doesn’t translate to other modern models, some of which are more powerful than the G20. It might be worth familiarizing yourself with the issues on this thread.

To add to the twist: there are others who don’t hear a persistent clicking sound after plugging in a 5A. So experiences tend to vary wildly here and it’s easy to understand why some people are frustrated.

Anyway my point is that the bulletin you cited isn’t that relevant because it doesn’t really address the customer’s complaint.

I don’t know man! I’ve read some of the complaints. It is a BS car. I should have kept my 911. The driving experience is hardly worth the hassle. Steering sucks after my Porsches, suspension tuning is bad and the electronics are gimmicky. Plus the charging hassles. I really regret the 82k I spent on this car. Probably, I will unload it for a Boxster.

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by anandn

I don’t know man! I’ve read some of the complaints. It is a BS car. I should have kept my 911. The driving experience is hardly worth the hassle.

I think you missed the salient point, some people (at one time it was the overwhelming majority) can't charge their batteries using a maintainer, doesn't matter what brand or type, even when following the published procedure and ignoring the clicks/noises. This has been going on with various models since they introduced the mild-hybrid system.

[anandn]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

I think you missed the salient point, some people (at one time it was the overwhelming majority) can't charge their batteries using a maintainer, doesn't matter what brand or type, even when following the published procedure and ignoring the clicks/noises. This has been going on with various models since they introduced the mild-hybrid system.

Not so with my two Volvos. One is a 48 v mil$ hybrid and the other is a PHEV. No salient points. Anyway, it is a pointless discussion.

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by anandn

Not so with my two Volvos. One is a 48 v mil$ hybrid and the other is a PHEV. No salient points. Anyway, it is a pointless discussion.

LOL never mind.

[anandn]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

LOL never mind.

48v mild hybrids are ubiquitous across many brands. BMW’s is so special that it has all these hassles with simply charging a 12 v battery. Something I’ve done with my modern Volvos and all other sports cars I’ve owned. LOL indeed.

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by anandn

48v mild hybrids are ubiquitous across many brands. BMW’s is so special that it has all these hassles with simply charging a 12 v battery. Something I’ve done with my modern Volvos and all other sports cars I’ve owned. LOL indeed.

You obviously are very misinformed, confused or just joking around. There is no way you can actually believe that 48v MH systems are the same across all brands. Your experience with Volvos and all the others sports cars is not relevant at all.

[kb1664]

Out of curiosity, what's wrong with these? Do they not work?

https://www.shopbmwusa.com/product/1...ATTERY-CHARGER

https://www.shopbmwusa.com/product/1...LLIGATOR-CLIPS

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by kb1664

Out of curiosity, what's wrong with these? Do they not work?

The issue is not the charger but rather the individual vehicle. A charger will work fine on one vehicle but another person using the same charger and procedure will not be successful.

[Teutonic]

Originally Posted by JSaid

So the NOCO 25 got here and I gave it a shot. So first off, it works. After plugging it in, it began charging with no clicking noises! Only noticed one sound closer to full charge which I believe was a switch to charge the 48v. After the sound I noticed the battery level in idrive started going up.

One thing I did notice this time, if you plug the car in before all the interior lights go off, it starts clicking. If you wait ~5 minutes for everything to shut off and then begin charging, no clicking. This is different than what I experience with the mxs5, that one I couldn't get the clicking to stop no matter what

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

The issue is not the charger but rather the individual vehicle. A charger will work fine on one vehicle but another person using the same charger and procedure will not be successful.

So, just an update from me.
I bought a Noco 25 to see if it works as claimed and how.

To add more to the confusion I an tell you that NOCO 25 DOES NOT WORK on my 2021 M340i MHT.

Noco 25 Connected to the 2021 M340i I have the same behaviour: charger is pushing charge, first LED blinks at 25%. Compared with the Noco 5 or Noco10, Noco 25 has a fan incorporated. The fan starts spinning at max, then the grinding noise in the central angine area and the following click (relay maybe) in the 48V battery area. The charging status does not evolve and continuously gets reseted like in the past.
POINTS:
- 12 V Battery is almost fully charged.
- The hood was open. Car locked, car unlocked, it doesn’t matter.
- Connected right away, or after 5 minutes after turn off, it doesn’t matter.
- the red hazard light and the left lights switch area are always lit
- in my case it does not switch to Li battery charge and shows nothing in the “energy flow” display like user JSaid mentioned.
- the “energy flow” does show however charging when engine is running and keep it over 1500-2000rpm.

To add more confusion to the problem, I connected Noco 5 and I get the same behaviour with gringing and clicking but no charging. So no change here.
But the Noco 10 got connected, and strange enough, it seems that the charging does occur this time (LEDs are evolving) but with grinding and clicking noises.
This time the battery was charged via trunk before, so almost full, so I wonder if the charging percentage has something to do with under the hood charging.


Noco 25 Connected to the 2021 X4 MHT I have the following:
Car charges but does not move to charge the Li battery. I might also have another problem with this car, as compared with the M340, the X4 even when engine runs, the “energy flow” shows nothing on my screen. My Lithium looks depleted, who knows what other susrprises I might get…

In the end, I am confused to max and start to believe that these cars are a pain to live with. still hope we can find the proper answer.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by Teutonic

So, just an update from me.
I bought a Noco 25 to see if it works as claimed and how.

To add more to the confusion I an tell you that NOCO 25 DOES NOT WORK on my 2021 M340i MHT.

Thanks for providing the user feedback, this does sound like a major headache for many, and BMWAG really should help out to provide some hints/solutions to the affected owners.

At first glance, it appears the specific setups of individual cars(e.g. option/package/integration-level combo) create untested configurations that BMWAG should debug and track down.

[Teutonic]

Originally Posted by JSaid

Only noticed one sound closer to full charge which I believe was a switch to charge the 48v. After the sound I noticed the battery level in idrive started going up.

One more thing: if the 48 V does not charge with the hood open, how the heck you could see the level in idrive going up? And, your car was not shut off during charging?
I am overly confused at this point…

[JSaid]

Originally Posted by Teutonic

One more thing: if the 48 V does not charge with the hood open, how the heck you could see the level in idrive going up? And, your car was not shut off during charging?
I am overly confused at this point…

Sorry for the delay here let me explain my experience a little better.

So with the noco 25, I plugged it in to the car after leaving it unlocked, hood open and waiting ~5-10 minutes for all the interior lights to shut off. I did check the battery level in idrive before starting and it was at 2 bars.

After plugging it in the first thing I noticed was the familiar clicking noise from the ctek in the beginning, but it only happened once. It did not continuously occur as with the ctek. I then left the garage for a little. Upon coming back ~45 minutes later. The charger was on the last stage (blinking green) and I decided to hang around with it for a little. Shortly after I heard a new sound (like switches/relays flicking) again only once. After waiting about ~5-10 minutes I left the garage and came back another 20 or so minutes later.

At that point I disconnected the charger to check on the car(still on last stage of charging) got in and checked idrive waking up the car. The idrive battery level was on four bars now as opposed to two before I started.I then let the car go back to sleep and finish charging until full.

Started up the car and all seems fine. I scanned for codes as well and didn't find any except a few low battery warnings and some small driver assistance errors (from when I swapped my mirror caps disconnecting the glass, unrelated).

To double check I cleared all the codes about a week later and retried charging. No codes showed up (however I noticed a code for a WLAN failure , I think it was on bmws side. The apps in idrive weren't loading for a few days and then it just started working again. Probably servers down or something). Maybe I can try recreating the battery management error and see if that throws anything.

Since then I also took it in to the dealer for an oil change and figured I'd have them check the battery as well. I mentioned the sounds and prior errors and they ended up doing a full inspection of the 48v battery as well as the rest of the car and found nothing wrong with it. At this point I'm just summing it up to the 48v system makes weird sounds lol they must be a normal part of the charging system. if anything goes wrong later I can point out my previous dealer visit and hopefully it's an easy warranty claim but I think it's all good. I'll continue to scan for codes occasionally to see if anything comes up

I don't leave the car sitting for too long at a time it's mostly if the roads are bad(New York) so I don't think I'll run into this again with leaving the car unlocked in the garage. Im pretty sure it was the security system draining the battery quick. You can also monitor all of the 48v battery performance metrics while you drive with BimmerLink so maybe I'll give that a shot too