[rccarps2]

Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars

That call system malfunction may be something as simple as a battery in the sensor. I’ve seen that happen before; however, that would be hard to believe on a vehicle that’s only a year or two old.

Doubt it is the battery. The voice system stops working when the call system malfunction is showing on the screen. You can push the microphone button and the system asks what you want, but it will never acknowledge you saying anything. A soft reset of the iDrive system fixes both the call system error and the voice system (holding down the volume button).

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by rccarps2

Doubt it is the battery. The voice system stops working when the call system malfunction is showing on the screen. You can push the microphone button and the system asks what you want, but it will never acknowledge you saying anything. A soft reset of the iDrive system fixes both the call system error and the voice system (holding down the volume button).

Have you tried rebooting iDrive by pushing the volume button towards the engine for 20 seconds? Hold it down until the right screen goes blank. It’s perfectly safe to do this even when you’re driving. It will not affect your instrument cluster. Make sure you let go of the button after 20 seconds or it will just keep rebooting. It will only take about 15 seconds to come back after you get the black screen. This is known as “soft reset.” You might have to redo some of your instrument cluster preferences, but that only takes a few seconds.

Much like a Microsoft Windows product, rebooting is usually the first troubleshooting step I perform whenever there are any warnings. If they keep persisting after that, then you probably do have an issue. It could be a simple as a faulty sensor.

[rccarps2]

Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars

Have you tried rebooting iDrive by pushing the volume button towards the engine for 20 seconds? Hold it down until the right screen goes blank. It’s perfectly safe to do this even when you’re driving. It will not affect your instrument cluster. Make sure you let go of the button after 20 seconds or it will just keep rebooting. It will only take about 15 seconds to come back after you get the black screen. This is known as “soft reset.” You might have to redo some of your instrument cluster preferences, but that only takes a few seconds.

Much like a Microsoft Windows product, rebooting is usually the first troubleshooting step I perform whenever there are any warnings. If they keep persisting after that, then you probably do have an issue. It could be a simple as a faulty sensor.

Yep. Have done that before. Detailed it in my previous post.

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by rccarps2

Yep. Have done that before. Detailed it in my previous post.

Bummer. Sorry, I don’t remember your previous post offhand, although I have probably read it.

[leightos]

Originally Posted by rccarps2

You will be fine. I had the same issue last fall. The part took a few weeks to come in and I was told the same thing that I could drive it until the next time I could get it in the shop.

In fact, the CEL light never came back on and I didn't get it in the shop for at least a few months before the part got swapped.

Now I am fighting an occasional "Call System Malfunction" and a one time "A/C charging fault".

Oh... and I had my first XM swapped out by corporate last summer/fall, so I am familiar with that process.

thanks for the follow up. I'll bet you're right. I am lucky they had 2 expansion valves (the most recent build of valve) and replaced both just to be sure, and then flushed the refrigerant system. They said they'll order more on Monday.
If you don't hear from me again about this, then it worked.

[freshxdough]

Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars

Have you tried rebooting iDrive by pushing the volume button towards the engine for 20 seconds? Hold it down until the right screen goes blank. It’s perfectly safe to do this even when you’re driving. It will not affect your instrument cluster. Make sure you let go of the button after 20 seconds or it will just keep rebooting. It will only take about 15 seconds to come back after you get the black screen. This is known as “soft reset.” You might have to redo some of your instrument cluster preferences, but that only takes a few seconds.

Much like a Microsoft Windows product, rebooting is usually the first troubleshooting step I perform whenever there are any warnings. If they keep persisting after that, then you probably do have an issue. It could be a simple as a faulty sensor.

Idrive 8 and up cars require 70 seconds for full headunit restart. Not 20 or 30 seconds.

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by freshxdough

Idrive 8 and up cars require 70 seconds for full headunit restart. Not 20 or 30 seconds.

The 20 seconds I’m referring to is just how long it takes to initiate the reboot and is when you should let go with the button. If you hold it down any longer than that, it will just keep rebooting in a cycle. Also, the reboot cycle time is much faster with the MGU 22 head unit and iDrive 8.5 M.

It took much longer on my iX M60 with the MGU 21 head unit and iDrive 8 where rebooting iDrive was almost a daily occurrence.

[freshxdough]

Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars

The 20 seconds I’m referring to is just how long it takes to initiate the reboot and is when you should let go with the button. If you hold it down any longer than that, it will just keep rebooting in a cycle. Also, the reboot cycle time is much faster with the MGU 22 head unit and iDrive 8.5 M.

It took much longer on my iX M60 with the MGU 21 head unit and iDrive 8 where rebooting iDrive was almost a daily occurrence.

You can restart it once with ~20 seconds. But doing a proper headunit restart is 70 second and restarts twice and actually does more. This is the proper method for a full reboot on idrive 8 and up cars as per TSARA.

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by freshxdough

You can restart it once with ~20 seconds. But doing a proper headunit restart is 70 second and restarts twice and actually does more. This is the proper method for a full reboot on idrive 8 and up cars as per TSARA.

Semantics. I believe what you’re referring to is doing the same sequence, but in diagnostic mode a.k.a., a hard reset. Holding the volume button down for more than 20 seconds just makes it reboot repeatedly.

It doesn’t matter in this case because this did not solve his problem.

[freshxdough]

Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars

I believe what you’re referring to is doing the same sequence, but in diagnostic mode. Holding the volume button down for more than 20 seconds just makes it reboot repeatedly. It doesn’t matter in this case because this did not solve his problem. If you just want to be right, then I’ll just agree with you to end the conversation.

The second reboot after 70 seconds actually does more than a single reboot after 30 seconds. That’s what I’m trying to tell you. Idrive 7 and below cars only required a 30 second reboot. Idrive 8 and up cars require a full 70 second reboot to perform a FULL reboot of the systems. And it doesn’t matter if the engine is running or you’re in diagnostic mode, they do the same thing. It’s the amount of time you hold it that’s important. I’m the only person debating this with you because I am likely one of the only people who have that knowledge in this group.
A 30 second reboot can probably rectify most things but doing it for 70 will do more and is the proper method.

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by freshxdough

The second reboot after 70 seconds actually does more than a single reboot after 30 seconds. That’s what I’m trying to tell you. Idrive 7 and below cars only required a 30 second reboot. Idrive 8 and up cars require a full 70 second reboot to perform a FULL reboot of the systems. And it doesn’t matter if the engine is running or you’re in diagnostic mode, they do the same thing. It’s the amount of time you hold it that’s important. I’m the only person debating this with you because I am likely one of the only people who have that knowledge in this group.
A 30 second reboot can probably rectify most things but doing it for 70 will do more and is the proper method.

Congratulations, you win!!! it’s not like I didn’t own an IX M60 for almost a year or anything. Enjoy the rest of your weekend!

[rccarps2]

And here I am holding my volume button down for over 70 minutes. Am I doing this right?

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by rccarps2

And here I am holding my volume button down for over 70 minutes. Am I doing this right?

😂😂😂

This is what I hate about these forums sometimes. People like to argue every small detail to death although it has nothing to do with the topic at-hand.

This has been argued and discussed so many times on the iX part of the forum, yet I’ve never seen anyone produce so much as a single piece of BMW documentation describing these sequences..

At the end of the day, it does not really matter as much on the XM like it does on the full EVs. I’ve only had to reboot mine a couple of times on my XM as opposed to at least five times a week on the iX. There were a lot of problems in early 2023, but they worked most of them out. The EV’s are far more reliant on the head unit due to so many sensors. I blame most of my issues on the older head unit that was on the original 2023s.

Happy rebooting!

[Bornagain73]

Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars

😂😂😂

This is what I hate about these forums sometimes. People like to argue every small detail to death although it has nothing to do with the topic at-hand.

This has been argued and discussed so many times on the iX part of the forum, yet I’ve never seen anyone produce so much as a single piece of BMW documentation describing these sequences..

At the end of the day, it does not really matter as much on the XM like it does on the full EVs. I’ve only had to reboot mine a couple of times on my XM as opposed to at least five times a week on the iX. There were a lot of problems in early 2023, but they worked most of them out. The EV’s are far more reliant on the head unit due to so many sensors. I blame most of my issues on the older head unit that was on the original 2023s.

Happy rebooting!

Don’t jinx me I haven’t had to reboot my 2022 IX in a very long time. Lol.
I hoping tomorrow I’ll be posting pictures of my 2024 XM🤞

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by Bornagain73

Don’t jinx me I haven’t had to reboot my 2022 IX in a very long time. Lol.
I hoping tomorrow I’ll be posting pictures of my 2024 XM🤞

You will be pleasantly surprised how much snappier iDrive 8.5 M is running on the MGU 22. Night and day difference compared to what you’re used to with iDrive 8 and the MGU 21.

[drbluedevil]

Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars

😂😂😂

This is what I hate about these forums sometimes. People like to argue every small detail to death although it has nothing to do with the topic at-hand.

Yeah...someone over at the iX forum keeps arguing with me that a 40% loss in value in under 1 year is normal. Sometimes it's just better to not respond and move on.

[Bornagain73]

Originally Posted by TKSH

Just an update for anyone following this. They were able to get that part sooner than expected, it's the sensor control for that CEL for the valve. They replaced it, and, per my suggestion, drove the car 200 miles. Sure enough, at 200 miles, the error code went on again. Car is back sitting at the dealership while I guess upper level corp engineers pontificate on what they could try next.

16 days so far in the shop.

I've spoken with the GM, he's great. Shop manager is great. BMW customer relations is aloof, and despite my having been assigned a case manager who comes across as smarmy and condescending, I feel even less supported now.

Was supposed to hear back in a few days (from Monday) and case manager doesn't respond (I sent an email & left a VM).

What's sad is that this is turning me against BMW as a whole.

Not sure when to get a lawyer engaged. Any ideas?

What state are you in? It varies from state to state, but I would file a lemon law claim with the state. I know in California you can do that. I dealt with Mercedes-Benz back in 2022. Wasn’t the best experience they went from telling me they would do a collateral exchange basically replacing my car so then tell me oh no I’m sorry. We will only buy it back. Then I bought my 2022 IX 50. And now I’m looking at an XM. I wish you all the luck, I will say once things got ran Mercedes-Benz fast to get me taken care of

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by drbluedevil

Yeah...someone over at the iX forum keeps arguing with me that a 40% loss in value in under 1 year is normal. Sometimes it's just better to not respond and move on.

Totally agree with your last statement. And I lost $40,000 in only six months, not 40%. I still don’t regret my decision as the XM is a much better vehicle for me and I’m much happier with it. Good to see you again though!

[leightos]

Oh nooooooooooo.... my XM flashed a DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION error, then I turned off the vehicle. It was a Fri night in town, and I sat there thinking "WTF am I going to do now?" So then I turned the car back on, it cleared so I decided to start it and drive it home and that's when the CE Light came on.
I am so bummed. I sent a message to BMWNA customer service who it appears won't be in on a Saturday.

Not a good look for BMW. I've gone through all this w/ BMWNA before.

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by leightos

Oh nooooooooooo.... my XM flashed a DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION error, then I turned off the vehicle. It was a Fri night in town, and I sat there thinking "WTF am I going to do now?" So then I turned the car back on, it cleared so I decided to start it and drive it home and that's when the CE Light came on.
I am so bummed. I sent a message to BMWNA customer service who it appears won't be in on a Saturday.

Not a good look for BMW. I've gone through all this w/ BMWNA before.

It might be an erroneous warning unless it keeps coming back. We used to get these all the time on our iX’s and they usually turned out to be nothing.

[leightos]

oh nooooo, the CEL cleared last night. WTF ? I have no idea why !

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by leightos

oh nooooo, the CEL cleared last night. WTF ? I have no idea why !

See my post above this one. As I mentioned previously, a CEL can come on for every variety of reasons - something as simple as a loose gas cap can cause a CEL.