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      10-22-2023, 09:22 PM   #1
AZHusky
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DIY oil change: drain oil first or remove filter first?

For my other vehicles I've owned, I've always drained the oil first, then removed the filter. In reading the BMW workshop service manual for the M340i, it actually instructs to remove and replace the oil filter element first, and then drain the oil.

a few questions:
1. doesn't removing the oil filter first result in potential for more oil spillage into the engine bay or does it not make a difference? It references in workshop manual and I've seen other videos that say to put several towels in the nooks around the filter housing to catch any oil that spills so I assume by not draining oil first it could result in more spillage?

2. Is there a benefit or reason why BMW manual has remove old oil filter and replace first before draining the oil? Does it matter?
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      10-23-2023, 05:03 PM   #2
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Anyone out there changing their own oil with input?
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      10-23-2023, 06:49 PM   #3
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I myself always drain the oil before replacing the oil filter. I have followed this procedure since the first time I changed the oil in 2020. I have never had any problems. The filter is usually pretty dry after so theres no spillage. I doubt it makes a difference.
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      10-24-2023, 09:24 AM   #4
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You're right. The shop manual does have it in that order, though it doesn't state why. I always drained oil first.

More importantly, I would review SIB 11 01 20
B58C AND B58M ENGINES: ENGINE OIL FILTER INSERT IS DIFFICULT
TO REMOVE – REMOVAL on how to remove the oil filter, as it is prone to breaking and can cause a very expensive problem. Cliff notes: loosen the filter a bit, then retighten, loosen a bit, retighten, remove.
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      10-24-2023, 11:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostcfc View Post
You're right. The shop manual does have it in that order, though it doesn't state why. I always drained oil first.

More importantly, I would review SIB 11 01 20
B58C AND B58M ENGINES: ENGINE OIL FILTER INSERT IS DIFFICULT
TO REMOVE – REMOVAL on how to remove the oil filter, as it is prone to breaking and can cause a very expensive problem. Cliff notes: loosen the filter a bit, then retighten, loosen a bit, retighten, remove.
Yup thanks read that and thus why I’d rather change it myself. Don’t trust shops or dealers to care or do it right.
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      10-24-2023, 11:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHusky View Post
Yup thanks read that and thus why I’d rather change it myself. Don’t trust shops or dealers to care or do it right.
Ah yes, you were the only person that responded to the thread I started. Was hoping to get a discussion going on this topic.
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      10-24-2023, 11:52 AM   #7
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I don’t think it makes any difference, since it’s a cartridge filter that drops in. There is minimal oil leakage either way. I usually drop it in and then pour some oil inside the housing.

Just make sure you get the cover properly tightened with the o-ring in place. I now use a torque wrench every time. It’s not like the flat rubber seal used on canister filters, which seals with relatively little torque.
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      10-25-2023, 03:17 PM   #8
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Anybody use a Fumoto valve for the drain plug? I was looking into getting one and they mention might need an adaptor. Is it needed for the B58?
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      10-30-2023, 11:37 AM   #9
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I remove the oid filter, take the drain plug out, put the new filter in while all the oil drains from the pan.
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      11-18-2023, 04:29 PM   #10
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I know this topic is well debated so not looking to start anything but sharing my experience with an engine break-in oil change. I purchased my car new and looking to keep it a long time so wanting to preserve engine best I can. I’m at 1,637 miles and have followed factory recommendation during the first 1,200 miles break in of not going over 100 mph and not going over 4,500 rpm. I meant to try and change at 1,200 but life happens.

The drained oil at 1,637 miles was fairly dark. Having drained it, I couldn’t imagine putting 10K miles on it before draining the oil. I will do a 6 month, 5K mile oil change interval going forward. Additionally can definitely see some fine metal shavings and particles at the bottom of oil pan so glad to have gotten some of that out now. Overall process pretty easy. Made sure to be careful taking the filter out so as not to cause the filter to break apart and disintergrate (known issue for B58). Old filter looked to be in good shape so once again, thinking that 10K mile interval would put that at more risk.
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Last edited by AZHusky; 12-18-2023 at 09:39 AM..
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      11-18-2023, 10:33 PM   #11
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I was in the same boat as you. I believe I changed it at 1500. The only thing switched was the drain plug. I went with a magnetic one.
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      11-18-2023, 10:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmedina View Post
I was in the same boat as you. I believe I changed it at 1500. The only thing switched was the drain plug. I went with a magnetic one.
Which magnetic one did you get? One from an auto store or online? Also, you see any metal shavings in your old oil?
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      11-18-2023, 10:44 PM   #13
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      11-18-2023, 10:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHusky View Post
Which magnetic one did you get? One from an auto store or online? Also, you see any metal shavings in your old oil?
Unfortunately, I did not check the oil for shavings.
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      11-20-2023, 08:19 AM   #15
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AZHusky thanks for the writeup. What method did you use for removing the oil filter? Did you follow the SIB exactly or were you more conservative (e.g., half turn loose > half turn tight > full turn loose > full turn > progressing more and more). Another tip I saw on YouTube was how to validate the new filter pieces were "locked" between themselves before installing.
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      11-20-2023, 08:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostcfc View Post
AZHusky thanks for the writeup. What method did you use for removing the oil filter? Did you follow the SIB exactly or were you more conservative (e.g., half turn loose > half turn tight > full turn loose > full turn > progressing more and more). Another tip I saw on YouTube was how to validate the new filter pieces were "locked" between themselves before installing.
I did a more conservative quarter turn loose and tighten, than half and the just loosened. From what I’ve researched online I do not believe any of the filters have the plastic pieces internally connected but the original BMW filter and I think the Mann have tabs that help keep it in place.

Hard to say at what point the filter paper element starts to get week but at 1600 miles it felt rock solid still.

I also made sure to generously lube all 3 o-rings on the new filter before putting it in.
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      11-20-2023, 08:55 AM   #17
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yeah, I believe they have the tabs that I guess could theoretically be out of place before installing, but not sure.

I'm going to follow your conservative approach. I change oil at around the year mark, but I've only put on 3,500 miles per year on average over 4 years. Changing every 6 months would be overkill for me, I think. Even changing just the filter every 6 months would probably introduce a bigger risk in breaking it at some point compared to waiting for the year.
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      11-20-2023, 09:03 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostcfc View Post
yeah, I believe they have the tabs that I guess could theoretically be out of place before installing, but not sure.

I'm going to follow your conservative approach. I change oil at around the year mark, but I've only put on 3,500 miles per year on average over 4 years. Changing every 6 months would be overkill for me, I think. Even changing just the filter every 6 months would probably introduce a bigger risk in breaking it at some point compared to waiting for the year.
I don’t drive a lot of miles either but for me my concern would be how long the oil sits in the engine too. Also conventional wisdom would seem to be the longer the filter is saturated with oil the more likely it looses its structural integrity but this could all just be guess work who knows.
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      12-13-2023, 08:48 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHusky View Post
For my other vehicles I've owned, I've always drained the oil first, then removed the filter. In reading the BMW workshop service manual for the M340i, it actually instructs to remove and replace the oil filter element first, and then drain the oil.


2. Is there a benefit or reason why BMW manual has remove old oil filter and replace first before draining the oil? Does it matter?
It is possible they simply have the directions in that order to create a standardized process to eliminate mistakes.
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      12-17-2023, 10:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostcfc View Post
You're right. The shop manual does have it in that order, though it doesn't state why. I always drained oil first.

More importantly, I would review SIB 11 01 20
B58C AND B58M ENGINES: ENGINE OIL FILTER INSERT IS DIFFICULT
TO REMOVE – REMOVAL on how to remove the oil filter, as it is prone to breaking and can cause a very expensive problem. Cliff notes: loosen the filter a bit, then retighten, loosen a bit, retighten, remove.
Is there a shop manual we can download for the 2023 M340i?
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      12-18-2023, 09:35 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmedina View Post
Is there a shop manual we can download for the 2023 M340i?
There's one somewhere on this site I downloaded; not for 2023, but it works.
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      12-22-2023, 06:21 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmedina View Post
Is there a shop manual we can download for the 2023 M340i?
https://bmwmanualspro.com/product/20...repair-manual/

I got one for a 24 X5 from here.
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