[pneumodoc]

This is the stock HiFi system. I'm not sure whether the HK system woofers are different. The bass in punchier, but not necessarily louder. I don't really notice much volume difference, although I didn't really blast them yet.

[pneumodoc]

As an update:

I spent two weeks in a 2020 X3 (with the new idrive 7, so i'm assuming it's got the same head unit and thus power as the stock HiFi system in the G20). This was not quite an apples to apples comparison as the x3 is a bigger vehicle, but this allowed me to essentially reset before getting my now properly broken in bavsound system back.

The sound from the stage 1 and ghost subs are much better, much tighter and clearer. Some of it is that the G20 is better insulated, but walking back into my car I noticed the clarity of the highs, and the punchiness of the mids and lows. It's definitely not earth shattering bass (nor did I expect that) but I definitely appreciate how improved it is now.

[Beam330]

25W I can't believe it

what a joke of a woofer!!

[tom_nook]

Originally Posted by pneumodoc

As an update:

I spent two weeks in a 2020 X3 (with the new idrive 7, so i'm assuming it's got the same head unit and thus power as the stock HiFi system in the G20). This was not quite an apples to apples comparison as the x3 is a bigger vehicle, but this allowed me to essentially reset before getting my now properly broken in bavsound system back.

The sound from the stage 1 and ghost subs are much better, much tighter and clearer. Some of it is that the G20 is better insulated, but walking back into my car I noticed the clarity of the highs, and the punchiness of the mids and lows. It's definitely not earth shattering bass (nor did I expect that) but I definitely appreciate how improved it is now.

Hi can you give another overall update? How's the bass holding up? Did you get a chance to compare with the HK? I'm thinking of doing both stage 1 and ghost subs, as the hifi just doesnt have the clarity and the concert experience that I had with premium audio in my last car.

[pneumodoc]

Originally Posted by tom_nook

Hi can you give another overall update? How's the bass holding up? Did you get a chance to compare with the HK? I'm thinking of doing both stage 1 and ghost subs, as the hifi just doesnt have the clarity and the concert experience that I had with premium audio in my last car.

No real change in my opinion-clarity and punch in midrange is good, bass is essentially the same in volume, maybe a little tighter. Volume is unchanged. I’m waiting for an amp upgrade if/when the RAM issue is figured out.

[AustraliaG20]

I had the HiFi in my car and replaced with the bavsound speakers and subs. I also have the HK setup in the X5. The bavsound speakers are definitely clearer than the HiFi, possibly a tiny bit louder. However, they don't compare to the HK system for volume. It's night and day.

I have been harassing bavsound for an amp but they are talking not before Xmas

[AustraliaG20]

Just as I say there is no amp replacement, I get an email from Audiotech Fischer stating they have released one. Anyone feel like being the first to give it a crack!??!?!

https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...9#post26404709

[erawamai]

Originally Posted by Calamari

I just completed my instalation of Eton speakers. I replaced fsctory speakers in all doors and center speaker in the dashboard.
I didn't touch under-seat woofers becuase factory ones are glued to their plastic enclosings and there are no plug-n-play replacements available yet.

I chose Eton B100 W component speakers for front doors(mid+tweet) and rear doors (only mids).
Center speaker is coaxial speaker Eton B100XCN from which I disconnected the integrated tweeter, and connected external tweeter that was left from two rear Etons (as I needed only mids). I did this to achieve better direction od high tones from center.

I also put some damping material (STP gold black)

PROS:
- Plug and play, so it's easy to install and revert to factory speakers
- much much better sound
- clearer and more natural mid and high tones
- stronger and very precise mid bass. Drums and base guitar is very nice now.
- clarity preserved even at very high volume
- price is very fair: 380€ + shipping

CONS:
I don't see any significant flaws with this upgrade.
One thing worth mentioning - this upgrade is not for you if you want to improve sound of sub 100Hz bass. That requires stronger amplifier and better under-seat woofers.

Overall, this is a noticable improvement over the factory HiFi system. It doesn't move earth but it has a nicely felt punch from mid-bass which is all I expected.












Factory speaker - front doors


Eton speaker + light damping of inner door surface:


Front door trim with a small patch of sound deadening material:




Rear doors with Factory speakers


Eton speaker + light damping of inner door surface:






Rear door trim with a small patch of sound deadening material:

Hi Calamari

I've been looking at this and the Eton's look good.

There website says something about needing a mid range cross over.
Did you use that?

https://www.eton-gmbh.com/en/product...uct/b-100-xhp/

[Calamari]

Originally Posted by erawamai

Hi Calamari

I've been looking at this and the Eton's look good.

There website says something about needing a mid range cross over.
Did you use that?

https://www.eton-gmbh.com/en/product...uct/b-100-xhp/

Crossovers are not needed if you have HIFI system or Harman Kardon system.

Crossovers are only needed for Base system that doesn't have tweeters, and plays directly from the headunit's integrated amp as opposed to HiFi and HK systems that go through the Amplifier located in the trunk.

Etons are nice, and a big improvement over HiFi and HK speakers. They have a good mid-range kick and nice highs with the silk tweeters. Overall, the sound is more detailed and "natural". However, the HiFi amp is pretty crap, so I ordered Match UP7BMW amp with integrated DSP. I'm gonna do a write up once I hook it up.

[erawamai]

Originally Posted by Calamari

Crossovers are not needed if you have HIFI system or Harman Kardon system.

Crossovers are only needed for Base system that doesn't have tweeters, and plays directly from the headunit's integrated amp as opposed to HiFi and HK systems that go through the Amplifier located in the trunk.

Etons are nice, and a big improvement over HiFi and HK speakers. They have a good mid-range kick and nice highs with the silk tweeters. Overall, the sound is more detailed and "natural". However, the HiFi amp is pretty crap, so I ordered Match UP7BMW amp with integrated DSP. I'm gonna do a write up once I hook it up.

Hi Calamari

Thanks for the response and clarification. I ordered front door pairs of the and we will see how it goes.

Did you disconnect the battery?

I was listening to the stock on the way to work this morning and its just too bright and hissy and tinny but also muddy at the low end. Kind of tiring to listen to.

It's just not great. My old Mazda SP25 with the Bose (which I know is not great) package sounded warmer/richer.

[Calamari]

Originally Posted by erawamai

Hi Calamari

Thanks for the response and clarification. I ordered front door pairs of the and we will see how it goes.

Did you disconnect the battery?

I was listening to the stock on the way to work this morning and its just too bright and hissy and tinny but also muddy at the low end. Kind of tiring to listen to.

It's just not great. My old Mazda SP25 with the Bose (which I know is not great) package sounded warmer/richer.

No need to disconnect the battery for speaker replacement. Just make sure that the car is "OFF" (iDrive turned off, and ignition off).

Yeah. Factory speakers are a dissapointment for everyone looking for precision, warmth and natural sound. The whole system also lacks in power which is noticable if you play FLAC files as they tend to be recorded with a little less volume compared to mid-quality lossy mp3s. Factory woofers are rated at 25W at 2ohms which is a perfect indicator of how weak factory HIFI amp is.

[Calamari]

I just installed the Match UP7BMW amp with DSP.

Installation is straightforward. Disconnecting the oem HiFi amp and removing it from the rack. Putting the Match amp on the same rack and connecting it to the OEM connector.

Downloaded the BMW limousine sound setup for the DSP and loaded it into the amp via Audiotec-fischer's DSP software.

Generic limousine sound profile was good but it was "Center" optimizied. Thus i measured distances from the driver's head to all speakers and entered them in the DSP tool to get clearer highs and a better soundstage.

I've also made small tweaks to the clarity effect to slightly boost up the brightness of the smooth sounding silk Eton tweeters.

The system now sounds great. I am running OEM under-seat woofers and ETON mids and tweeters on all channels, including center. Even with OEM under-seat woofers low end is very very good. Mid-bass and bass guitar, and bass drums sound surprisingly good for a 16cm woofer. This is because MatchUp amp has some tricks that allow it to push the OEM woofers just close to the limit without ever overpowering them. Even more impressive is that this feature does these tricks dinamically, so when the volume is lower it will push full power, and will protect the speakers when the levels get close to speaker's limits (either when volume is raised, or when the bass level raises within a track).

All in all, Match UP7BMW is a great piece of equipment and I would recommend it to anyone that wants a clear, natural sound.

[moto111]

Originally Posted by Calamari

I just installed the Match UP7BMW amp with DSP.

Installation is straightforward. Disconnecting the oem HiFi amp and removing it from the rack. Putting the Match amp on the same rack and connecting it to the OEM connector.

Downloaded the BMW limousine sound setup for the DSP and loaded it into the amp via Audiotec-fischer's DSP software.

Generic limousine sound profile was good but it was "Center" optimizied. Thus i measured distances from the driver's head to all speakers and entered them in the DSP tool to get clearer highs and a better soundstage.

I've also made small tweaks to the clarity effect to slightly boost up the brightness of the smooth sounding silk Eton tweeters.

The system now sounds great. I am running OEM under-seat woofers and ETON mids and tweeters on all channels, including center. Even with OEM under-sear woofers low end is very very good. Mid-bass and bass guitar, and bass drums sound surprisingly good for a 16cm woofer. This is because MatchUp amp has some tricks that allow it to push the OEM woofers just close to the limit without ever overpowering them. Even more impressive is that this feature does these tricks dinamically, so when the volume is lower it will push full power, and will protect the speakers when the levels get close to speaker's limits (either when volume is raised, or when the bass level raises within a track).

All in all, Match UP7BMW is a great piece of equipment and I would recommend it to anyone that wants a clear, natural sound.

The amp is what 1k ? And do you think someone with no experience with bmw could do the install? I pick up my car next week without hk and am bummed . So sound system is first upgrade I do

[Calamari]

Originally Posted by moto111

The amp is what 1k ? And do you think someone with no experience with bmw could do the install? I pick up my car next week without hk and am bummed . So sound system is first upgrade I do

This AMP is around 780€ in europe. I managed to find it on a discount for 660€ at nonsolospeakers.com :
https://www.nonsolospeakers.com/en/d...204610890.html

Installation is very simple if you are moderatly skilled.
Here is the installation video on a BMW G30 5 series which has a similar trunk liner as G20: (turn on English captions if you don't speak German)

Beware that in case you have a car with RAM unit you need to buy the additional harness. More info here:
https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26426056

[Calamari]

I did some more fine tuning of the MATCH-UP 7BMW integrated DSP after two days of listening.

I've followed the instructions in the Audio-Fischer Sound Tuning magazine for fine adjustments of phase/delay hoping to get ideal front sound stage. Once I got familiar with the process, I must say that it's fairly easy to do it by ear.

The end result is Fantastic!

Finally the stage is right in front of me. Not below, not to the middle of the car, but directly in front in the eye line. Adjusting the time aligment of left and right woofers with mids further improved the midbass and lower bass precision. All in all, this is now a great system. Even with factory woofers, I am very impressed with it. I don't think I'll upgrade the OEM under-seat woofers as i really don't see the need for that.

I am sharing my sound setup file in the attachment. Just remove the .pdf extension after downloading. Beware that my car is left-hand drive. So for RHD cars, you can just load this configuration, then navigate to TIME, and switch the time alignment/distances of left channels to right, and vice versa for fronts, rears and woofers. Center channel distance should remain as it is. This will set the stage to RHD directly in front of the driver.

Here is the link to Audiotec-Fischer Sound Tuning magazine:
http://audiotec-fischer.de.dedivirt2...70d008e6b1.pdf

I am attaching my sound setup file.(BMW G20 LHD, OEM woofers, ETON components for L,R and Center channel)
You can find it at the bottom of this post. Just remove .pdf extension and then load the .afpx file into the DSP tool.

Below is the screenshot of time-aligments for LHD. For RHD, just switch the distances of left to right, and vice versa.

Feel free to use this DSP setup file, and let me know how it sounds with your setup.

[plikmuny]

Originally Posted by Calamari

After a lot of investigation, I decided to go with Eton BMW replacement speakers instead of Bavsound.
I initially considered Bavsound, but decided to skip on it due to several reasons:
- shipping of Bavsound to EU is a bit complicated and expensive
- Bavsound stage 1 includes all 5 mid/high speakers and I only need 4 (front/rear). (I already disconnected the useless central speaker. It just messes up left/right channel separation, and distorts the sound.)

- Eton speakers are easier to buy and deliver in EU. (buy on Amazon.de)
- 2 pairs of Eton B 100 W are cheaper than Bavsound stage 1 (300€ vs 600$)
- they are also 100% plug and play
- they have great user reviews

I also ordered some STP damping material. I won't go overboard with it. Just a couple of pieces on crucial places of inner door surface.
First pair of speakers is already delivered. I'm waiting for damping material and the other pair. I plan to replace oem HiFi speakers in the following week or two.

For rear speakers, I will only hook-up mids (the same as OEM setup). HiFi system is designed to work only with mids in the rear, and I don't want the highs to come from the rear. I'll play around with it, and If I find that there is benefit from adding highs in the back, I'll purchase Harman Kardon door handle frames with tweeter holders and install Eton tweeters in them.

I'll share my thoughts when I complete the upgrade.

If anyone is interested in ETON and general audio upgrade for BMWs, here is an awesome thread on 2addicts forum: https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1236238

Hi calamari, congrats on your speaker upgrade. I have a 330d g20, sportline with HiFi -Speakersystem(S676). I am also not happy with the sound it produces. I am planning to upgrade the speakers mostly with eton.
Can you pls tell me why did you go for b100w but not xw? Did you also use eton b100xhp with every spaker? Is it really necessary!? If I use it will it give a better sound?
Which type of sound dampening material did you use? And where all did you put it or thought is very important to apply this dampening material there???
You did front and back speaker replacement right?. Is it advisable to change the back speakers work jl audio???
I also saw that you added match up 7BMW amplifier. Before adding that were you satisfied with front and back speaker replacement???
Tweaters From eton are they really good? Are they necessary for good music???

Can you share a link where you bought all these stuff from?
I live in Germany.

Thanks in Advance

[Calamari]

Originally Posted by plikmuny

Hi calamari, congrats on your speaker upgrade. I have a 330d g20, sportline with HiFi -Speakersystem(S676). I am also not happy with the sound it produces. I am planning to upgrade the speakers mostly with eton.
Can you pls tell me why did you go for b100w but not xw? Did you also use eton b100xhp with every spaker? Is it really necessary!? If I use it will it give a better sound?
Which type of sound dampening material did you use? And where all did you put it or thought is very important to apply this dampening material there???
You did front and back speaker replacement right?. Is it advisable to change the back speakers work jl audio???
I also saw that you added match up 7BMW amplifier. Before adding that were you satisfied with front and back speaker replacement???
Tweeters From eton are they really good? Are they necessary for good music???

Can you share a link where you bought all these stuff from?
I live in Germany.

Thanks in Advance

Hi plikmuny

I'll answer to all your questions below:

1. Can you pls tell me why did you go for b100w but not xw?
For G20 with HIFI option you need to buy Eton B100W component speakers (10cm midwoofer + tweeter) to replace front and rear door speakers. For rear speakers you will only use midwoofer as HiFi system is designed to work without tweeters in the back doors.
For the center speaker you should use Eton B100XCN and modify the tweeter as I described in my post HERE: https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=13
B100XW is a coaxial speaker (has integrated tweeter in the middle of the midwoofer) and it's NOT DESIGNED to replace HIFI speakers in the front or back of the G20 3er.

2. Did you also use eton b100xhp with every speaker? Is it really necessary!? If I use it will it give a better sound?
No I did not use B100XHP crossover for my setup. This crossover is not needed when replacing HIFI system speakers. This crossover is only necessary for Base audio system that doesn't have front tweeters and is powered directly from the headunit. You should not use B100XHP in your 3er with HIFI system.

3. Which type of sound dampening material did you use? And where all did you put it or thought is very important to apply this dampening material there???
I used STP Gold. https://www.carhifi-store-buende.de/...5m#bewertungen
I only did not go overboard with the dampening material because it's not necessary. Its enough to apply light dampening to bigger flat surfaces on the plastic barrier inside the front and rear doors. See the pictures i posted HERE, and you can see exactly where I added dampening material. I only needed 0,375m² and I was still left with a spare sheet after the completion.

4. You did front and back speaker replacement right?. Is it advisable to change the back speakers work jl audio???
I replaced front and rear speakers with Eton B 100 W.
Center with Eton B 100 XCN
Under-seat woofers with FOCAL iSUB2.
I would not advise to mix different front and rear speakers because having front and rear speakers of the same characteristics will guarantee a balanced sound without the necessity of performing advanced audio adjustments with DSP and special equipment. This is especially important if you keep the factory amplifier as you cannot access the DSP in the factory amp to modify the output of rear speakers.

5. I also saw that you added match up 7BMW amplifier. Before adding that were you satisfied with front and back speaker replacement???
I was very satisfied with the sound after I replaced the speakers. The sound was much more natural, less tiring, and overall more enjoyable. However, I wanted more power so I decided to upgrade the amp and the woofers.

I would advise to first replace the center, front, and rear speakers as your stage 1 upgrade.
Do not upgrade the woofers in the first stage because you will not get much better bass with them because the factory amp doesn't have the power to run them properly.
After you replace all midwoofers ad tweeters (center/front/rear) be patient and use this system for a month or two before deciding if you really need the amp or not.

Beware that for almost all G20 3ers you need to buy
a) MatchUp 7DSP with MEC Analog Input (Not 7 DSP BMW!) AND
b) special connector PP-BMW 1.7RAM

This is because G20 cars have a slightly different amplifier/RAM unit in the trunk compared to F-series cars. F-series cars can be directly connected to BMW high-level analog audio inputs by replacing the factory amp. G-series cars with iDrive 7 need to connect in parallel with the factory amp/RAM unit and this is why 7DSP amp with PP-BMW 1.7RAM connector is used.

Note: MatchUP 7BMW and 7DSP are in fact the same amp. You can buy 7BMW amp, and then add MEC Audio input to it (it's also available as a separate add-on). When you have 7BMW amp with MEC Audio input, you can connect it via PP-BMW 1.7RAM adapter to your car the same way you would with 7DSP amp.
MEC Audio input can be purchased HERE

6. Tweeters From eton are they really good? Are they necessary for good music???
Tweeters from Eton are made out of silk, and are much smoother, warmer and less harsh then factory ones. I am happy with them. They are absolutely necessary because factory tweeters are pretty low quality.

7. Can you share a link where you bought all these stuff from?
I already posted the link for the STP damping material.

I bought the amplifier from Nonsolospeakers The current price is around €580 which is around €200 below the regular price.

Speakers are bought from Amazon.de:
- center ETON B100 XCN speaker: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01MUI3B6S/...TE_SCE_3p_dp_1
- front/rear B 100 W: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00BUPR54S/...740101_TE_item
- focal iSUB woofers: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B083R9RF32/...740101_TE_item

If you have more questions, shoot!

Cheers!

[plikmuny]

Wow, great and detailed answering. Thanks for your patience.
I am planning to upgrade stage 1 as front, rare and also central speakers for now. Do these tweaters come with b100w speakers or should I buy separately?
Why did you choose stp gold dampening material only? I saw few videos where they are using 2-3 layers of dampening (Vibration/Noise and also harsh sounds absorbing material. Is it really not advised to follow 3layers of insulation? Is stp gold enough and that good?
I have to tell you I get a strange and loud judging sound in cabin by going from 180km/h and above. With more insulation can I also get rid of this irritating sounds at high speeds and also make the speakers sounds better by reducing the external noise to more extent???
I am not an expert in installing or removing those parts at ease. How is the difficulty level in installing it myself? Do I need a professional assistance? What more minute things (screws or tape or other materials if necessary) do I need in opening and closing that door panel???
Is there a rear center speaker above luggage room??? Just like front central speaker in g20???
For the hushing sound can I use more insulation materials at the borders of the front doors and also at the wind shield??? According to me the insulation material is very scarce. Any suggestions pls?
Can you pls explain in detail about the tweeter connection from rear door to the central speaker?? I didn't understand it clearly.

Thanks for your time and patience. I am newbie in audio electronics for cars.

[Calamari]

I am planning to upgrade stage 1 as front, rare and also central speakers for now. Do these tweaters come with b100w speakers or should I buy separately?

B100W speakers come with midwofer + tweeter per channel (you get 2 pairs in a single package).



When you buy two packs, one for front doors, and another for rear doors, you will have two extra tweeters because BMW HiFi system doesn't use facilitate tweeters in the rear. One of these two two spare tweeters can then be used to connect to the B100 XCN center speaker.


Why did you choose stp gold dampening material only? I saw few videos where they are using 2-3 layers of dampening (Vibration/Noise and also harsh sounds absorbing material. Is it really not advised to follow 3layers of insulation? Is stp gold enough and that good?


Don't invest money or work hours into dampening material. It's not worth it. I have a lot of experience with dampening and noise insulation from my previous cars. G20 is a very well insulated car. If you want less noise, you should have ordered nosie insulated front windows option. With double layered front windows, G20 is one of the most insulated cars on the market. Adding more dampening material to it will not make a difference. You will spend a lot of money and effort to make your doors too heavy.
The purpose of STP Gold on the inner plastic wall of the doors is just to slighlty dampen the vibration of the mid-woofer to improve the quality of kick bass.

I have to tell you I get a strange and loud judging sound in cabin by going from 180km/h and above. With more insulation can I also get rid of this irritating sounds at high speeds and also make the speakers sounds better by reducing the external noise to more extent???

You should not get much noise even above 180kmh. Also with adding dampening and sound insulation to door panels, you will not gain much improvement as I already explained above. It's a waste of money. You should report the noise to your service because you shouldn't be experiencing excessive noise in your G20, even above 180kmh.

I am not an expert in installing or removing those parts at ease. How is the difficulty level in installing it myself? Do I need a professional assistance? What more minute things (screws or tape or other materials if necessary) do I need in opening and closing that door panel???

If you don't have any experience in removing door panels, it's better to get someone experienced to do it for you. It's not rocket science, but it takes a certain level of experience and some special tools for removing the trims without damaging it (special plastic trim-removal levers).

Is there a rear center speaker above luggage room??? Just like front central speaker in g20???
There is no center speaker in the rear above the luggage compartment. There is only one center speaker in the front, above the iDrive display.

For the hushing sound can I use more insulation materials at the borders of the front doors and also at the wind shield??? According to me the insulation material is very scarce. Any suggestions pls?
If you have double-layered driver/passenger front windows and hear excessive noise, something is not right with the rubber seals on your doors. These cars are very silent. I would say that mine is quieter than most BMW F10 5 series I drove.

Can you pls explain in detail about the tweeter connection from rear door to the central speaker?? I didn't understand it clearly.
Center speaker B100XCN has integrated tweeter that's mounted in the middle of the woofer. The problem is that when you replace OEM center speaker with B100XCN, it will touch the plastic trim mesh that sits above it.

See image below. Notice how the ETON tweeter sticks out.



In order to fix this, you need to remove the center tweeter from the B100 XCN. It's glued so you just need to heat it up a bit, and then use a flat screwdriver to losen it out. Then you need to use soldering iron to remove the wiring of the tweeter.



After you remove the original tweeter, use tweeter from B100W and solder it's wires to the + and - contacts on the back of the speaker.






Close the whole in the middle of the B 100 XCN speaker to prevent air short-circuit (See white plastic patch in the center hole)




Once you mount the speaker back, it should look like this.




If you don't mind the B100XCN original tweeter touching the plastic trim mesh, you can skip this modification and just install the B100 XCN speaker as it is.

Thanks for your time and patience. I am newbie in audio electronics for cars.

You're welcome.

[plikmuny]

Thank you calamari. Your help is much appreciated

[AustraliaG20]

Hi Plikmuny,

Replacing the speakers is quite easy, just take your time and don't go too hard. Watch this video, it will explain everything.

I've also replaced the underseat subs, and that is a fair bit more painful. But still achievable. I did the whole car in under a few hours. You can also order spare clips for a few $$$, which is worth it (the Bavsound speakers came with spares) because you're bound to break one.

If you do attempt it yourself, I'm sure we could try and work you through it.

[plikmuny]

Originally Posted by AustraliaG20

Hi Plikmuny,

Replacing the speakers is quite easy, just take your time and don't go too hard. Watch this video, it will explain everything.

I've also replaced the underseat subs, and that is a fair bit more painful. But still achievable. I did the whole car in under a few hours. You can also order spare clips for a few $$$, which is worth it (the Bavsound speakers came with spares) because you're bound to break one.

If you do attempt it yourself, I'm sure we could try and work you through it.

Thanks for the video AustraliaG20. Now I will start sourcing the speakers and wait till they arrive. I have very little time to spare for this diy job on weekends due to family reasons.
But once I find the right time and all the parts and tools available, I am sure I will trouble you all the experts if I need any help. Thanks in advance.