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      08-21-2024, 01:53 PM   #1
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I've seen so many videos with varying processes and steps so I'm curious what my fellow DIY BMW guys are doing as far as ceramic coating or PPF prep process.

What I'm thinking for a brand new car:
- Rinse (or apply the foam on a dry car?)
- Foam (Gyeon Foam)
- Hand wash bucket with the same soap (Gyeon Bathe)
- Rinse
- Iron remover spray
- Rinse
- Clay decon towel with wash bucket soap (or buy a clay lube)
- Rinse
- Dry
- Polish
- Prep spray
- Apply coating/PPF

So many variables on when to do each step. So, what's your process?
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      08-21-2024, 02:00 PM   #2
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I would start off with a stronger soap at least for the foam/wash.
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      08-21-2024, 02:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faze2988 View Post
I would start off with a stronger soap at least for the foam/wash.
I can do that. I have Gyeon Foam and CarPro Descale.
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      08-21-2024, 03:07 PM   #4
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You want to prefoam the car dry as prerinsing hinders prefoam ability.

You also have to prefoam with something meant for prefoam or will actually break down road grime. You'd be surprised how many prefoams do nothing.

You could use the chemical decon if you wish but if you're going to clay bar, and polish it probably doesn't matter. You also don't need to prep spray twice unless you're using something that leaves residue for lubricant.
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      08-21-2024, 03:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by louielouie View Post
You want to prefoam the car dry as prerinsing hinders prefoam ability.

You also have to prefoam with something meant for prefoam or will actually break down road grime. You'd be surprised how many prefoams do nothing.

You could use the chemical decon if you wish but if you're going to clay bar, and polish it probably doesn't matter. You also don't need to prep spray twice unless you're using something that leaves residue for lubricant.
1. Okay so I can prefoam with Gyeon Foam and then as that's dwelling I can bring out the Gyeon Bathe for the hand wash.

2 . Can I apply the chemical decon prior to foaming? So essentially on a dry and dirty car.
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      08-21-2024, 03:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Game View Post
1. Okay so I can prefoam with Gyeon Foam and then as that's dwelling I can bring out the Gyeon Bathe for the hand wash.

2 . Can I apply the chemical decon prior to foaming? So essentially on a dry and dirty car.
I've never used Gyeon Foam and have not seen testing so I'm not sure. I'm still going through my Bilt Hamber Auto Foam as I bought a gallon ages ago.

Yes, but not in direct sunlight. Just make sure the spray is safe on paint - there are stronger formulas meant exclusively for wheels.
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      08-21-2024, 04:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by louielouie View Post
I've never used Gyeon Foam and have not seen testing so I'm not sure. I'm still going through my Bilt Hamber Auto Foam as I bought a gallon ages ago.

Yes, but not in direct sunlight. Just make sure the spray is safe on paint - there are stronger formulas meant exclusively for wheels.
I hear good things about Bill Hamber foam but haven't gotten my hands on any since it's not so readily available.

As far as Iron product, it'll be Gyeon Iron.


For the record, last year I ceramic coated my G87 with CarPro's acidic Descale (I put it in my foam cannon) and then did a chemical decon...no claying and had no issues but every video I come across I'm seeing the use of clay on top of the iron remover.
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      08-21-2024, 05:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Game View Post
I hear good things about Bill Hamber foam but haven't gotten my hands on any since it's not so readily available.

As far as Iron product, it'll be Gyeon Iron.


For the record, last year I ceramic coated my G87 with CarPro's acidic Descale (I put it in my foam cannon) and then did a chemical decon...no claying and had no issues but every video I come across I'm seeing the use of clay on top of the iron remover.
For Bilt Hamber, The Clean Garage used to sell it. I got it from eBay before that. Obsessed Garage is now the exclusive US distributor and I'm not sure operationally where they're at with it and OG rails customers with shipping. PM me if you're looking to get some.

I'm not as experienced as some but I've slowly elevated my DIY detailing over the past decade or so and I don't know if I'm jaded or just woken up to the shill but things can be as simple or complicated as you want it to be.

A lot of people making those videos are trying to make money selling you products. AMMO NYC and Forensic Detailing are my go tos that have withstood the test of time. I think Forensic actually has a test on coating with and without decon - just search his channel. Scott HD had really good testing on coatings but unfortunately he's taken a break after his mom's passing.
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      08-21-2024, 05:21 PM   #9
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This was my process (no ppf):

1) Rinse the car.
2) Decontaminate with Iron-x.
3) Wash and Rinse throughly. Dry.
4) Clay bar the car.
5) Wash and rinse, then dry again.
6)Using an Orange CSS pad, with Wolfgang total swirl remover and a porter cable polisher, go over the entire car.
7) Remove any residue from swirl remover.
8) Using a white CSS pad, and Wolfgang polish and porter cable, go over the entire car.
9) Wash the car and dry it again.
9a) Dry thoroughly.
10) Apply ceramic coating per recommended spec’s. and remove.
11) Leave car in garage for 12-24 hours to cure.

Enjoy!

Last edited by mcsquared; 08-21-2024 at 08:25 PM..
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      08-21-2024, 07:16 PM   #10
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So you do a full decon and polish before you wash the car?
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      08-21-2024, 08:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Game View Post
So you do a full decon and polish before you wash the car?
Do not wax/ceramic coat the car before you PPF. If you are going to polish before PPF, make sure it has no wax/coating in it.

If you are going PPF, you want nothing betwenn the clear coat and the PPF. No wax/coating or any other substance.

So wash it thoroughly (without adding wax/coating), claybar, rinse it and then PPF.
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      08-21-2024, 08:23 PM   #12
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Added a couple of extra steps. But yeah, complete decon because there’s a lot of iron on the car from all the traveling. Especially the wheels!

It took me a couple of days to do it all, but, after a year, the ceramic coat is holding strong.

I just washed the car last night, bugs just don’t stick.
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      08-21-2024, 09:21 PM   #13
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I think you had it pretty much square from the top, Game.

I wouldn't bother pampering on the last drying step with the prep spray but to each his own.
That is the step where I use the car dryer to get rid of all the water in all the hiding places.
I usually let my house cars sit overnight to evaporate the residual water.
If you hit a water spot while polishing( water pops out from the DA vibrations ) it will render the pad useless from diluting the polish/compound. So more than enough pads keeps things flowing.
Wipe pad with microfiber to rid of spent polish and clearcoat between passes.
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      08-21-2024, 09:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilled View Post
Do not wax/ceramic coat the car before you PPF. If you are going to polish before PPF, make sure it has no wax/coating in it.

If you are going PPF, you want nothing betwenn the clear coat and the PPF. No wax/coating or any other substance.

So wash it thoroughly (without adding wax/coating), claybar, rinse it and then PPF.

Yes of course that goes without saying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsquared View Post
Added a couple of extra steps. But yeah, complete decon because there’s a lot of iron on the car from all the traveling. Especially the wheels!

It took me a couple of days to do it all, but, after a year, the ceramic coat is holding strong.

I just washed the car last night, bugs just don’t stick.

Definitely going to decon but to clay a dirty car wouldn’t make much sense. You need to get off all or the dirt and debris before you clay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spazzz View Post
I think you had it pretty much square from the top, Game.

I wouldn't bother pampering on the last drying step with the prep spray but to each his own.
That is the step where I use the car dryer to get rid of all the water in all the hiding places.
I usually let my house cars sit overnight to evaporate the residual water.
If you hit a water spot while polishing( water pops out from the DA vibrations ) it will render the pad useless from diluting the polish/compound. So more than enough pads keeps things flowing.
Wipe pad with microfiber to rid of spent polish and clearcoat between passes.
Yeah agreed on the drying aid during the drying.

I’ll probably hit it with my air blaster to ensure it’s dry if I decide to polish that same night.
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      08-21-2024, 10:18 PM   #15
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Yeap, I forgot the wash and dry step, which I added to my original post, after the iron-x.

The most scary part for me was using iron-x for the first time, and man does that stuff stink!
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