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      08-19-2020, 03:57 AM   #1
Ikester19
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Which oil to use

I've just hit 8000km and decided it's time for an oil change (in between Bmw service intervals). So doing some research I need a 0w-30 oil Ll01-FE approved. I called both Shell and Castrol customer care numbers and both told me they don't carry an off the shelf BMW approved engine oil for the M340i. I can however buy it from my local Bmw dealer at a whopping $38/litre which is just daylight robbery. Reading through this topic on forums it seems ppl advise against using a non BMW approved oil for warranty purposes.

Keen to get some feedback on this, is there an oil I can buy off the shelf that is Bmw approved or should I just get the oil service done by the dealer and pay the exorbitant price?
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      08-19-2020, 09:57 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikester19 View Post
I've just hit 8000km and decided it's time for an oil change (in between Bmw service intervals). So doing some research I need a 0w-30 oil Ll01-FE approved. I called both Shell and Castrol customer care numbers and both told me they don't carry an off the shelf BMW approved engine oil for the M340i. I can however buy it from my local Bmw dealer at a whopping $38/litre which is just daylight robbery. Reading through this topic on forums it seems ppl advise against using a non BMW approved oil for warranty purposes.

Keen to get some feedback on this, is there an oil I can buy off the shelf that is Bmw approved or should I just get the oil service done by the dealer and pay the exorbitant price?

If you are planning to purchase a off-brand oil.
Take notice of the label on the back of the oil bottle.

You are looking for a 0W-30 LL-01 FE approval rating.
See my attached photo for reference
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      08-22-2020, 10:02 AM   #3
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Here are a couple of threads on the topic that might be helpful:


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum.../#post-3972384


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum.../#post-4330083
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      08-25-2020, 05:34 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lo2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikester19 View Post
I've just hit 8000km and decided it's time for an oil change (in between Bmw service intervals). So doing some research I need a 0w-30 oil Ll01-FE approved. I called both Shell and Castrol customer care numbers and both told me they don't carry an off the shelf BMW approved engine oil for the M340i. I can however buy it from my local Bmw dealer at a whopping $38/litre which is just daylight robbery. Reading through this topic on forums it seems ppl advise against using a non BMW approved oil for warranty purposes.

Keen to get some feedback on this, is there an oil I can buy off the shelf that is Bmw approved or should I just get the oil service done by the dealer and pay the exorbitant price?

If you are planning to purchase a off-brand oil.
Take notice of the label on the back of the oil bottle.

You are looking for a 0W-30 LL-01 FE approval rating.
See my attached photo for reference
So i decided to get the Bmw dealer to do the oil change. Upon reading through the invoice it states they used a 5w-30 ll01 oil. I asked the service manager if he was sure that viscosity was correct for the M340i and he said that's what they use.

Is this right or should I be taking it further with the dealership?
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      08-25-2020, 10:35 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikester19 View Post
So i decided to get the Bmw dealer to do the oil change. Upon reading through the invoice it states they used a 5w-30 ll01 oil. I asked the service manager if he was sure that viscosity was correct for the M340i and he said that's what they use.

Is this right or should I be taking it further with the dealership?
Unless you'll be starting a cold engine in *extremely* cold ambient temperatures, i.e., < -25°F, there is hardly any measurable difference in the performance of "weights," or cold weather viscosity grades, under 10w. In other words, 0w and 5w will perform very similarly.

Likewise, unless you're taking the car on the track or otherwise beating on the engine under hard conditions and hot ambient temperatures, there won't be much difference between the two operating temperature viscosity grades, i.e., 30 and 40. An OTVG of 30 will aid in getting the oil temperature up to operating temperature sooner, which can actually be a good thing. Now, if you're racing the car on the track, you might reconsider.

Both oils are long-life rated and properly spec'd for the B48 and B58 engines. My dealer has also used 5w-30 and, the first time they did, I panicked and found some good research on the issue.

Here's a little reading material in case you're interested: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...eather.280598/

Edit: Looks like you're in Brisbane. If so, you'll be fine with any cold weather viscosity. Just remember to use 0w-40 or 5w-40 if you take it on the racetrack.

Last edited by 3erMan; 08-25-2020 at 10:41 AM..
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      08-25-2020, 12:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3erMan View Post
Unless you'll be starting a cold engine in *extremely* cold ambient temperatures, i.e., < -25°F, there is hardly any measurable difference in the performance of "weights," or cold weather viscosity grades, under 10w. In other words, 0w and 5w will perform very similarly.

Likewise, unless you're taking the car on the track or otherwise beating on the engine under hard conditions and hot ambient temperatures, there won't be much difference between the two operating temperature viscosity grades, i.e., 30 and 40. An OTVG of 30 will aid in getting the oil temperature up to operating temperature sooner, which can actually be a good thing. Now, if you're racing the car on the track, you might reconsider.

Both oils are long-life rated and properly spec'd for the B48 and B58 engines. My dealer has also used 5w-30 and, the first time they did, I panicked and found some good research on the issue.

Here's a little reading material in case you're interested: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...eather.280598/

Edit: Looks like you're in Brisbane. If so, you'll be fine with any cold weather viscosity. Just remember to use 0w-40 or 5w-40 if you take it on the racetrack.
There's also a benefit regarding the timingchain by going with a thicker base oil ie. 5w instead of 0w. Also less viscosity spread means the oil will hold its specs longer (if its a high quality baseoil that is.)
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      08-25-2020, 03:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikester19 View Post
So i decided to get the Bmw dealer to do the oil change.
I am in contemplating the same but was thinking of using an independent mechanic. Out of curiosity do you have a service program with your car that provides the oil change every 2 years? If so, assume they will reset the oil change counter so next year they won’t provide the included oil change unless you explicitly point it out? Did you discuss this with them?
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      08-25-2020, 05:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bris-M340i View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikester19 View Post
So i decided to get the Bmw dealer to do the oil change.
I am in contemplating the same but was thinking of using an independent mechanic. Out of curiosity do you have a service program with your car that provides the oil change every 2 years? If so, assume they will reset the oil change counter so next year they won't provide the included oil change unless you explicitly point it out? Did you discuss this with them?
I don't have the BSI service program on this car but previous Bmw's which did have it I just asked them not to reset to ensure I got the next oil change as part of the service package.

I did contemplate getting an independent shop to carry out the oil change but was wary of doing this as it could lead to voiding the warranty if I have any issues during the warranty period. If it were outside of warranty I would no doubt have the oil change done elsewhere and saved the $.
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      09-16-2020, 11:29 AM   #9
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Another user on here showed us that the oil the dealer put on the receipt was Shell Helix, so as long as you use the right grade (I've gone for 5W-30 Castrol Edge personally) you should be good
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      12-06-2020, 08:19 PM   #10
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Hi folks. I did a oil change today and noticed the sticker under the hood says 0w20. The only oil I had was the Castro’s edge 0w40, which is not LLE1, but I read it use to be and someone said Castrol just didn’t re-certify it for LL.
I live in a moderate climate and usually change the oil ahead of the normal 10k.
I’ve read conflicting info regarding using 40 in lieu of 20 and LL rating, etc....not sure if I should be concerned.
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      12-08-2020, 10:03 AM   #11
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FE is just thinner oil than should be used to gain small improvements is fuel economy. Using LL01 oil will actually be better for your engine and I doubt you will see a measurable decline in economy.
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      01-06-2021, 02:41 AM   #12
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I'm using 0W-30 OEM BMW Oil. Got rid of the factory fill 0W-20 garbage they use. I'm at 11k miles, car hasn't burned a drop of oil even after a hard track and drag day. Had to top up half a quart but that's nothing compared to some of my friends that have been using 0W-20 since day one and top up a full quart every 800-1,000 miles. You want something nice and light to flow quickly upon startup but remain thick enough during operating temperature. Take temperature into account as well. 0W-30 Genuine BMW and 0W-40 Castrol have been perfect for me. Thought I'd give my two cents!
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      02-10-2021, 07:40 AM   #13
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For cars manufactured from 2020 with GPF

Motul Specyfic 0W30
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      02-26-2021, 11:19 PM   #14
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Several clarifications that might help folks here.
All LL specifications were updated in 2018 to include timing chain test. I personally would stick to LL oil.
Now, bit complicated part:
1. B generation engines take pretty much anything, from 0W20 to 5W40 or 0W40 (LL01 or LL04 oils). DIfference is in markets. In the US they use 0W20 LL17FE to meet CAFE requirements. As seen on some markets they use 0W30 LL01FE. Take into consideration that FE means what it is: fuel efficiency.
2. Vehicles equipped with GPF should NOT run anything LL01, FE or not. LL01 are so called High-SAPS oils. The sulfated ash and phosphorus content is too high for GPF and will shorten GPF life. If you want to run thicker oil, LL04 is way to go for those with GPF.
3. If you are leasing vehicle, stick to whatever BMW is putting in. No brainer there. If you bought vehicle and you plan on keeping it: LL01 (NOT FE one) for vehicles without GPF and LL04 for vehicles with GPF.

Difference between FE oils and regular ones:
FE oils have lower HTHS (High Temperature High Shear). HTHS is resistance of oil to temporary or permanent loss of viscosity. Higher number, more resistance. But, you do not want too high either. LL01 and LL04 have minimum requirement of 3.5cp HTHS. For example BMW TPT 5W30 has HTHS of 3.6, which is excellent for so called heavy W30 oil. Most 0W40 and 5W40 oils have HTHS between 3.6 and 3.9.
LL01FE oils have HTHS around 3, and that is in range of ILSAC GF5/6 5W30 oils like Mobil1 5W30 one can buy in Wal Mart. Imo, bit to low for B58.
0W20? I would not put that in my BMW if someone paid me. But, BMW gets EPA bump on mpg using those oils.

Castrol 0W40 not LL01?
Castrol did not decide to drop LL01. Approvals for oils are cheap (around $5k). Reason is that with 2018 update of oil approvals, BMW increased already extremely high oxidation requirements to even higher levels. 0W oils with HTHS above 3.5 have a bit higher oxidation as they utilize either more Esters (like M1 0W40 FS) or use more viscosity improvers (cheaper 0W40 oils). I personally would stick to approved LL01 or LL04 oils bcs. of that timing chain test that updated approvals have.
Hope this clarifies topic a bit. Any questions? Ask.
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      07-20-2021, 02:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Several clarifications that might help folks here.
All LL specifications were updated in 2018 to include timing chain test. I personally would stick to LL oil.
Now, bit complicated part:
1. B generation engines take pretty much anything, from 0W20 to 5W40 or 0W40 (LL01 or LL04 oils). DIfference is in markets. In the US they use 0W20 LL17FE to meet CAFE requirements. As seen on some markets they use 0W30 LL01FE. Take into consideration that FE means what it is: fuel efficiency.
2. Vehicles equipped with GPF should NOT run anything LL01, FE or not. LL01 are so called High-SAPS oils. The sulfated ash and phosphorus content is too high for GPF and will shorten GPF life. If you want to run thicker oil, LL04 is way to go for those with GPF.
3. If you are leasing vehicle, stick to whatever BMW is putting in. No brainer there. If you bought vehicle and you plan on keeping it: LL01 (NOT FE one) for vehicles without GPF and LL04 for vehicles with GPF.

Difference between FE oils and regular ones:
FE oils have lower HTHS (High Temperature High Shear). HTHS is resistance of oil to temporary or permanent loss of viscosity. Higher number, more resistance. But, you do not want too high either. LL01 and LL04 have minimum requirement of 3.5cp HTHS. For example BMW TPT 5W30 has HTHS of 3.6, which is excellent for so called heavy W30 oil. Most 0W40 and 5W40 oils have HTHS between 3.6 and 3.9.
LL01FE oils have HTHS around 3, and that is in range of ILSAC GF5/6 5W30 oils like Mobil1 5W30 one can buy in Wal Mart. Imo, bit to low for B58.
0W20? I would not put that in my BMW if someone paid me. But, BMW gets EPA bump on mpg using those oils.

Castrol 0W40 not LL01?
Castrol did not decide to drop LL01. Approvals for oils are cheap (around $5k). Reason is that with 2018 update of oil approvals, BMW increased already extremely high oxidation requirements to even higher levels. 0W oils with HTHS above 3.5 have a bit higher oxidation as they utilize either more Esters (like M1 0W40 FS) or use more viscosity improvers (cheaper 0W40 oils). I personally would stick to approved LL01 or LL04 oils bcs. of that timing chain test that updated approvals have.
Hope this clarifies topic a bit. Any questions? Ask.
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      10-12-2021, 10:48 PM   #16
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How would I know if my 2021 330i 2.0L has a GPF or not?

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      10-19-2021, 12:05 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jamers2021 View Post
How would I know if my 2021 330i 2.0L has a GPF or not?
I don't believe vehicles in the United States are fitted with a GPF. Mostly a EU and China thing. You can look up the build sheet based on your VIN number on a site like www.mdecoder.com to see if your vehicle was built with one.
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      11-02-2021, 11:22 AM   #18
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I'm about ready for the 2nd oil change on my 2020 M340i. Just over 10k of mainly highway miles though it's been through Deals Gap a couple times, Tail of the Pig in Ark., and the mountains of Colo. It's never shown anything but full when I check. My dealership only uses 0-20 and I'm sticking with that. They told me they have never had an issue using that recommended oil.
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      11-04-2021, 08:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emily172013 View Post
I'm about ready for the 2nd oil change on my 2020 M340i. Just over 10k of mainly highway miles though it's been through Deals Gap a couple times, Tail of the Pig in Ark., and the mountains of Colo. It's never shown anything but full when I check. My dealership only uses 0-20 and I'm sticking with that. They told me they have never had an issue using that recommended oil.
They never had issues on brand new cars? Shocking.
Will see around 100k or 150k.
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      11-05-2021, 05:45 PM   #20
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Didn't say no issues with new cars. Said no engine issues attributed to 0-20w.
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      11-08-2021, 06:30 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emily172013 View Post
Didn't say no issues with new cars. Said no engine issues attributed to 0-20w.
I said we will see around 100-150k.
0W20 is fuel saving trick. HTHS is around 2.6cp. Problem? HTHS is what matters not grade! It is resistance of oil to temporary or permanent loss of viscosity. It is what matters around piston rings, journal bearings etc. Now, oil temperature temperature is driven by rpm not much by combustion. Take into consideration that turbo spins around 150k rpms. Think temperature on bearings that oil has to lubricate.
But, lower HTHS means more mpg and that is what matters for BMW.
By the way, in Europe in B58 they use LL04 oils with min. HTHS of 3.5 which comes in XW30/40 flavor.
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      11-10-2021, 11:31 AM   #22
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I didn't want to start a discussion and offend anyone. I'm certainly not a mechanical or petroleum engineer. You very well might be right, but it really comes down to listening to the manufactures of engines and petroleum products or a guy on the internet, doesn't it.
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