[WABIM66]

Hi everyone, I am seeking suggestions when it comes to winter tires.

1) Should I invest in an additional set of winter tires? Will anticipate snowy season.
2) If so, should I purchase and have pre-mounted on a new set of wheels?
3) With the specific jack points, how concerned should I be taking to the local (national brand) wheel/tire service providers? I ask this since a friend was stuck with a flat on his Mustang, and the towing service refused to assist, mentioning he did not want to damage the battery.

thanks!

[unfoundnemo]

Originally Posted by WABIM66

1) Should I invest in an additional set of winter tires? Will anticipate snowy season.

If you'll drive in the snow often, drive when it's below 20F often, or just want to be able to drive/push the car in cold temps... of course. If it's just a few times here or there and you understand that driving on A/S in cold temps will increase your stopping distance and other abilities... you could probably "get away" with A/S in the PNW.

Originally Posted by WABIM66

2) If so, should I purchase and have pre-mounted on a new set of wheels?

I've always done it, mainly because it means I could do the swap myself, and mounting/balancing different tires an extra 2x a year for a couple years will probably pay for your wheels (not to mention the extra strain on the wheel and tire). It's also pretty easy to sell wheels when you decide to move on the the next car.

Originally Posted by WABIM66

3) With the specific jack points, how concerned should I be taking to the local (national brand) wheel/tire service providers? I ask this since a friend was stuck with a flat on his Mustang, and the towing service refused to assist, mentioning he did not want to damage the battery.

Most modern cars have specific jack points due to all the extra plastic, side skirts, and other cladding under the car. Tire chains are certainly used to it. That's a little different than your friend's scenario, I could see a tow truck driver getting hesitant with something they've never seen before while they're operating on the side of the road.

[WABIM66]

Originally Posted by unfoundnemo

If you'll drive in the snow often, drive when it's below 20F often, or just want to be able to drive/push the car in cold temps... of course. If it's just a few times here or there and you understand that driving on A/S in cold temps will increase your stopping distance and other abilities... you could probably "get away" with A/S in the PNW.
I've always done it, mainly because it means I could do the swap myself, and mounting/balancing different tires an extra 2x a year for a couple years will probably pay for your wheels (not to mention the extra strain on the wheel and tire). It's also pretty easy to sell wheels when you decide to move on the the next car.
Most modern cars have specific jack points due to all the extra plastic, side skirts, and other cladding under the car. Tire chains are certainly used to it. That's a little different than your friend's scenario, I could see a tow truck driver getting hesitant with something they've never seen before while they're operating on the side of the road.

Thanks, yes her new DD baby recently arrived port, hope it gets the stop sale lifted and on a truck shortly. Since most likely heading east in your direction next year will go ahead and invest in a set of mounted 859Ms/19" Winters. I spend alot of time on the road and she is a plug and play type so better leave her less decisions during crunch time just store the replacements in garage she can get them loaded in the trunk and take to BMW service to mount balance and install. I cant recall exactly I think there was a (user manual) warning or two listed on the wheel and tire topics or recommendations against using repeating use of the jack or for replacements IDK. Maybe rethink trading the ICE in and keeping on-hand for another season or so. Good thoughts though TY!!

[mlanes01]

I don't think there are central jack points on the bottom due to the battery. I think you can only use the side points with a jack stand under the control arm just in case. Not ideal but if you are careful shouldn't be a big deal

[WABIM66]

[QUOTE=unfoundnemo;29440650]I've always done it, mainly because it means I could do the swap myself
Most modern cars have specific jack points due to all the extra plastic, side skirts, and other cladding under the car./QUOTE]
Thanks again.. Yes my first bummer in years so pardon the ignorance.
To avoid a potential single point of failure, should I purchase an additional jack or am I reading too much into a standard owners manual warning (p.348) about frequent jack usage?

[WABIM66]

Originally Posted by mlanes01

I don't think there are central jack points on the bottom due to the battery. I think you can only use the side points with a jack stand under the control arm just in case. Not ideal but if you are careful shouldn't be a big deal

Good point, I haven't had a chance to eyeball yet.. but manual's visual descriptor makes a bit difficult to discern the config or location of rectangular jacking point recesses. Perhaps proprietary.

[Rich9600]

Originally Posted by WABIM66

Good point, I haven't had a chance to eyeball yet.. but manual's visual descriptor makes a bit difficult to discern the config or location of rectangular jacking point recesses. Perhaps proprietary.

If it is the same as recent BMW's I have had there are 4 rectangular points, two each side just inboard of the wheels.

Years ago I bought a circular rubber jack pad with a rectangular male piece to go into the female BMW jack point.

Using this protective pad and a low profile trolley jack I have changed to winters on my RWD BMW'sat home each year without any problems.

I doubt it will be any different on an i4. Twice a year doesn't constitute regular usage in my estimation. So, if I buy winters for my AWD i4 I will plan to DIY change.

Dedicated winter tyres aren't that useful here in the UK most winters, all seasons would be better on balance… Winters aren't a legal requirement and the vast majority of motorists don't bother. So, if it snows badly these unequipped folk block the roads anyway…

[mlanes01]

Originally Posted by WABIM66

Good point, I haven't had a chance to eyeball yet.. but manual's visual descriptor makes a bit difficult to discern the config or location of rectangular jacking point recesses. Perhaps proprietary.

Standard lift points you can get with a trolley jack, just make sure it's a 3 ton bc it is a lot more weight. Make sure the jack pad is centered so you don't deform it. If your trolly has deep groves etc you may need a small block on top to flatten the surface

[WABIM66]

Ok kudos for the tip

[Rich9600]

I bought this BMW adaptor on eBay back in 2014.
It worked a treat on a F30 330d and F31 340i changing wheels twice a year.
But, 1.8 tonnes vs 2.2 tonnes for my upcoming M50… My jack has raised edges on the metal plate, they bite into the rubber but have not cut it.

[WABIM66]

Ok I located similar rubber pads here. Looks like a small investment into a trolley as well to compliment the OEM will be in order. Thanks

Will see how winter plays out and await comments on tire experiences.

[pharding]

I suggest just having your BMW dealership swap out winter wheels and tires. And using BMW Roadside Assistance if required.

[mlanes01]

Again.... Just snow tires no need to make it too complicated bbs and msw wheels are oe spec and way cheaper. I would be picky about the rubber and make sure it's an ev tire. Fight the urge to listen to the guy at the tire center telling you how good blizzaks are. I would do nokian or Michelin. Or some other EV spec tire. I looked around at load ratings and axle load etc. Most will meet or exceed what BMW is looking for but I wouldn't try to put on anything too lightweight. I have non msport brakes and was surprised how little clearance I had with 18s. So be careful about sizing down. Tire rack is pretty conservative and will make sure you can easily swap them out. I would do something you can run square that way you can rotate them and get a few seasons on them. I've had zero issues on 3 bmw's with them. The dealer is about 1k more and to say a BMW wheel is better spec'd than a bbs is a bit of a stretch.

[UKi4M50]

When detailing my car when it first arrived, I took off all the wheels to ceramic coat inside and outside plus ceramic coat the brake callipers and plastic wheel shields.
The i4 is quite low and even though I had a low lift jack it was not low enough to go under the i4. I ended up buying a 3 tonne ultra low lift trolley jack from Costco which did the job.
The jacking points (there are 4 near to where the bodywork adjuts all four wheels) have female plastic mountings already in them which key to the male parts of the jacking plugs that BMW use. You can get rubber male plugs or you can get die cast aluminium ones which work very well and are less likely to wobble.
Overall, it is fairly easy to change a wheel at a time.

[WABIM66]

Originally Posted by mlanes01

Again.... Just snow tires no need to make it too complicated bbs and msw wheels are oe spec and way cheaper. I would be picky about the rubber and make sure it's an ev tire. Fight the urge to listen to the guy at the tire center telling you how good blizzaks are. I would do nokian or Michelin. Or some other EV spec tire. I looked around at load ratings and axle load etc. Most will meet or exceed what BMW is looking for but I wouldn't try to put on anything too lightweight. I have non msport brakes and was surprised how little clearance I had with 18s. So be careful about sizing down. Tire rack is pretty conservative and will make sure you can easily swap them out. I would do something you can run square that way you can rotate them and get a few seasons on them. I've had zero issues on 3 bmw's with them. The dealer is about 1k more and to say a BMW wheel is better spec'd than a bbs is a bit of a stretch.

Yep, am also partial to nokians I think they are offering more EV products. And the other info registered to my knowledge bank. TY

And good points UKi4M50

When detailing my car when it first arrived, I took off all the wheels to ceramic coat inside and outside plus ceramic coat the brake callipers and plastic wheel shields.
The i4 is quite low and even though I had a low lift jack it was not low enough to go under the i4. I ended up buying a 3 tonne ultra low lift trolley jack from Costco which did the job.
The jacking points (there are 4 near to where the bodywork adjuts all four wheels) have female plastic mountings already in them which key to the male parts of the jacking plugs that BMW use. You can get rubber male plugs or you can get die cast aluminium ones which work very well and are less likely to wobble. Overall, it is fairly easy to change a wheel at a time.

Trolly route seems to offer more stability. Added to my shopping list.