[Daywalker007]

Originally Posted by AustraliaG20

And the ground wire... and some way to mount it.

Yep, that one too. I wish they would include wiring for power and ground. At least a red and black wire a few feet each.

[PKells]

RAM is installed in the trunk, on the left rear side wall. To gain access need to take the trunk carpeting out

I installed the Audiotec amp/DSP and Match UP7 kit in my 2020 330i with HiFi last year and it was relatively easy. I also opted to replace all in car speakers as well since they were only "HiFi" quality level. It's night and day difference and very happy with results.

Was a bit expensive, but worth the investment in my opinion.

I created a how to guide that's on these forums somewhere. It includes the parts, tools, and pics of each step of install. DM me if you'd like me to send guide to you directly.

Originally Posted by helmet91

Next dumb question from helmet91:

Where in the trunk does a person find the RAM? I have an access panel on the right that has the fuse box. And there's the battery under the floor. I don't see anything else that's obvious.

My build sheet says I have:
645 Radio Control US
65A CD Player Prep (where the hell is that located??)
676 Hi-fi sound system

So, judging by post #20, I should have the RAM... but where?

For what it's worth, Bimmercode lets me turn off ASD in the RAM.

Thanks again!

[1WickedE90]

Originally Posted by PKells

I created a how to guide that's on these forums somewhere. It includes the parts, tools, and pics of each step of install. DM me if you'd like me to send guide to you directly.

Thanks for creating this guide for the speakers & amps - I was only able to find the one you did for subwoofer/amp. If you could post it in this thread, I'd greatly appreciate it!

[Daywalker007]

Originally Posted by AustraliaG20

I have the DSP and it's really easy to setup as the amp is close to the battery and plenty of space. Need a bit of extra cash though.

My only comment is around what Encanto said above - if the BMW harness is only rated for 20A power, then I'm not sure how using that is a good idea. I'm way out of details now, but given the max power draw of the amp (and using P=VI) and the amp has 25A fuses (from memory) then it seems like the weak point is the harness. Ie. There is every chance the harness will fail, not the fuses. You don't want to use the harness as a fuse... or does the OEM harness run through a 20A fuse in the fuse box than can be upgraded? I'm not sure if anyone knows the answer?

- Just looked up and the DSP and BMW amp states a minimum 10 AWG cable if short (30A) or 8 (40A) or 6 (55A) AWG if longer than 1m. So if the OEM harness is only 20A, then what's going on? Have I missed something?

Regardless, I would consider the DSP and running a separate power cable anyway.

So I finally have all the components and went and bought the power and ground wires today. Going back to the quote above…The manual I have says 10AWG for less than 1 meter of wire but doesn’t say that the fuse can be less than 50A.
The stereo shop I bought the wires talked me into buying 10AWG wires with the largest fuse being 40A. They said that is what they would use if they did the install.

Is 40A to risky? Should I take it back and get the 6AWG with 60A fuse since that was the next one up that they had?

I saw someone had trouble getting the larger wires into the connector for the amp. I am just concerned the 6AWG will complicate the install a bit.

[billnchristy]

Why not 8ga?

[Daywalker007]

The shop I went to didn’t have 8 gauge, at least not with a 50amp fuse. The only thing he had that met the 50 amp requirement was 6AWG with a 60 amp fuse.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Daywalker007

So I finally have all the components and went and bought the power and ground wires today. Going back to the quote above…The manual I have says 10AWG for less than 1 meter of wire but doesn’t say that the fuse can be less than 50A.
The stereo shop I bought the wires talked me into buying 10AWG wires with the largest fuse being 40A. They said that is what they would use if they did the install.

Is 40A to risky? Should I take it back and get the 6AWG with 60A fuse since that was the next one up that they had?

I saw someone had trouble getting the larger wires into the connector for the amp. I am just concerned the 6AWG will complicate the install a bit.

10AWG/40A better than 6AWG/60A for this install. You can always replace the 40A fuse with a 50A later if needed.

[Daywalker007]

Originally Posted by Technic

10AWG/40A better than 6AWG/60A for this install. You can always replace the 40A fuse with a 50A later if needed.

I do not know the correlation between the wire gauge and amperage of the fuse but it sounds like the worst that happens is the fuse pops and I just replace it?
I just want to make sure I am risking damage to the amp or other expensive items.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Daywalker007

I do not know the correlation between the wire gauge and amperage of the fuse but it sounds like the worst that happens is the fuse pops and I just replace it?
I just want to make sure I am risking damage to the amp or other expensive items.

UP 7DSP fuse is 50A, so if you have a choice between using 40A or 60A then always go with the lower rated-fuse - it is better for the fuse to blow with 40A (less than the max of 50A) than blowing up with 60A, which means that the max current that the amp can handle was exceeded.

[Daywalker007]

Originally Posted by Technic

UP 7DSP fuse is 50A, so if you have a choice between using 40A or 60A then always go with the lower rated-fuse - it is better for the fuse to blow with 40A (less than the max of 50A) than blowing up with 60A, which means that the max current that the amp can handle was exceeded.

Thanks for that Technic!

[AustraliaG20]

10AWG/40A is probably fine, but the manual recommends this for short lengths... less than 1m, which this will be 2m+. While I don't think it's an issue, just keep in mind the wire will have a higher resistance, potentially get hot, voltage drop, requiring more current and then higher resistance... and repeat. This could effect the amp itself, as well as blowing the fuse / melting cables. But... you're not going to need a super long cable and AF are likely erring massively on safety as well. However, the AWG of the cable is outside the recommendation.

[PKells]

I didn't create a guide for the speaker installation as Match Up 7 speakers come with correct adapter so it's very simple... Just a matter of taking door panels off, uninstalling "HiFi" speakers and installong new ones.

Having a trim removal kit does make taking door panels off easier and less likely of causing damage to them.

Of course just keep note of cables that need to be unplugged to fully remove panel (window switch, mirror, etc). Panel lastly needs to be lifted up and off to not get caught up on lock.

You can see what I mean in this pic of one of my doors, and where speaker goes
https://ibb.co/Rg1QPBH

Quality of old vs new speakers
https://ibb.co/znPDP1x

Originally Posted by 1WickedE90

Thanks for creating this guide for the speakers & amps - I was only able to find the one you did for subwoofer/amp. If you could post it in this thread, I'd greatly appreciate it!

[Daywalker007]

Originally Posted by Encanto

Leave everything on default.

Does mean jumper on or off? Mine was installed and on 3.5v to 11v but the software is giving me a warning that tells me I am risking damage to the device.

[Daywalker007]

Also, just did the install of 7DSP with MEC analog installed and using the PP-BMW 1.7RAM harness but I am not getting any bass out of the subwoofers, only highs. The software told me to remove the jumper from the MEC so I did but still no sound from subs. Not sure what I am doing wrong.

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by Daywalker007

Does mean jumper on or off? Mine was installed and on 3.5v to 11v but the software is giving me a warning that tells me I am risking damage to the device.

Leave everything on default - 3.5v-11v.

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by Daywalker007

Also, just did the install of 7DSP with MEC analog installed and using the PP-BMW 1.7RAM harness but I am not getting any bass out of the subwoofers, only highs. The software told me to remove the jumper from the MEC so I did but still no sound from subs. Not sure what I am doing wrong.

Try this configuration:

[chenry]

All
Thoughts....what should someone expect to pay for a used Match UP7? Anyone by a used one recently? Thanks in advance

[Daywalker007]

Originally Posted by Encanto

Leave everything on default - 3.5v-11v.

The jumper was installed by default. The only way I could get rid of the warning message while running the software was to remove the jumper from the MEC analog. Are you saying to leave the jumper installed and ignore the warning message about damage to the amp? Why would I get the warning message if the amp range is only 5V to 11V and I leave the selector switch in 3.5V to 11V? I am not sure the program will even allow me to continue with the jumper installed.

I followed the directions in the manual and from what I read on this thread so it is just confusing and frustrating that I cannot get bass out of the “subs” and the software is telling me to do something different.

[Encanto]

Are there any speakers in the rear shelf of your car?

Originally Posted by Daywalker007

The jumper was installed by default. The only way I could get rid of the warning message while running the software was to remove the jumper from the MEC analog. Are you saying to leave the jumper installed and ignore the warning message about damage to the amp? Why would I get the warning message if the amp range is only 5V to 11V and I leave the selector switch in 3.5V to 11V? I am not sure the program will even allow me to continue with the jumper installed.

I followed the directions in the manual and from what I read on this thread so it is just confusing and frustrating that I cannot get bass out of the “subs” and the software is telling me to do something different.

[pneumodoc]

Originally Posted by Daywalker007

The jumper was installed by default. The only way I could get rid of the warning message while running the software was to remove the jumper from the MEC analog. Are you saying to leave the jumper installed and ignore the warning message about damage to the amp? Why would I get the warning message if the amp range is only 5V to 11V and I leave the selector switch in 3.5V to 11V? I am not sure the program will even allow me to continue with the jumper installed.

I followed the directions in the manual and from what I read on this thread so it is just confusing and frustrating that I cannot get bass out of the “subs” and the software is telling me to do something different.

Mine sounded that way until I loaded the proper tune from the audio tech Fischer website. It took me a few days to get that done and there was no bass at all (had to wait to borrow someone’s PC). Once I did that, it sounded awesome.

[Daywalker007]

Originally Posted by Encanto

Are there any speakers in the rear shelf of your car?

There are not any speakers in the rear shelf. I have the front center, 2 under seat “subs”, 4 mids (1 in each door), and the 2 tweeters (1 in each front door which I assume are on the same channel as the mids they share the door with).

I am going to load the basic tune from the AF website today and see if that changes anything but I am still curious why the software wanted me to take out the jumper in the MEC since this amp has a max voltage of 11 based on the spec page. I may try putting it back in after I get the tune loaded. Does having the jumper removed affect sound quality at all? Should I just leave it removed?

[Encanto]

The input/output configuration of the UP 7DSP must look like the picture above.

Originally Posted by Daywalker007

There are not any speakers in the rear shelf. I have the front center, 2 under seat “subs”, 4 mids (1 in each door), and the 2 tweeters (1 in each front door which I assume are on the same channel as the mids they share the door with).

I am going to load the basic tune from the AF website today and see if that changes anything but I am still curious why the software wanted me to take out the jumper in the MEC since this amp has a max voltage of 11 based on the spec page. I may try putting it back in after I get the tune loaded. Does having the jumper removed affect sound quality at all? Should I just leave it removed?