[prostcfc]

Is anyone aware of any vendors that offer either coilovers or separate damper/spring setups that are track-focused? I'm not talking a hybrid street/track, like KW V3 or even Ohlins R&T. I'm talking something more along the lines of a KW Clubsport (which doesn't appear to be offered).

Closest I can find is the Bilstein Evo R, but I've seen no information on folks running these. Otherwise seems like Ohlins R&T with a different spring is the best we have if we want to skew towards track performance versus street?

[peelerec]

Originally Posted by prostcfc

Is anyone aware of any vendors that offer either coilovers or separate damper/spring setups that are track-focused? I'm not talking a hybrid street/track, like KW V3 or even Ohlins R&T. I'm talking something more along the lines of a KW Clubsport (which doesn't appear to be offered).

Closest I can find is the Bilstein Evo R, but I've seen no information on folks running these. Otherwise seems like Ohlins R&T with a different spring is the best we have if we want to skew towards track performance versus street?

You can customize your Ohlins from 3DM with varying springs and other components geared more towards the track. JRZ offers a custom track focused coilovers system as well. Since the G20 is not the main focus as compared to the G80, most of the usual coilover brands do not offer an off the shelf system readily available for us G20, however, if you contact them, they may be willing to sell you a customized kit or even modify the G80 kit to work with G20.

https://3dmmotorsport.com/products/b...uspension-kits

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by peelerec

You can customize your Ohlins from 3DM with varying springs and other components geared more towards the track. JRS offers a custom track focused coilovers system as well. Since the G20 is not the main focus as compared to the G80, most of the usual coilover brands do not offer an off the shelf system readily available for us G20, however, if you contact them, they may be willing to sell you a customized kit or even modify the G80 kit to work with G20.

https://3dmmotorsport.com/products/b...uspension-kits

Do you have a link for JRS? Haven't heard of that.

[peelerec]

Originally Posted by prostcfc

Do you have a link for JRS? Haven't heard of that.

*JRZ
Apologies, did not see my typo.
I would contact them.
https://www.jrzsuspension.com
Another possible outlet is MCS.

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by peelerec

*JRZ
Apologies, did not see my typo.
I would contact them.
https://www.jrzsuspension.com
Another possible outlet is MCS.

Cool, thanks. Looks like they have a service center in Chicagoland, which is definitely convenient.

I've accepted I need another vehicle to daily, but I need to decide this year if I stick with this platform for a plated track/weekend car, or if I move to something more "traditional" and proven like an E46. There's something to be said about being unique though.

[chrispy28_xd]

I'm replacing my Ohlins with 2-way remote JRZs. Spring rates are similar to competition spec Supras. I'm working with Shaftworks USA to get them revalved. It's uhh not cheap, so I recommend going with a more modest setup.

[peelerec]

Originally Posted by chrispy28_xd

I'm replacing my Ohlins with 2-way remote JRZs. Spring rates are similar to competition spec Supras. I'm working with Shaftworks USA to get them revalved. It's uhh not cheap, so I recommend going with a more modest setup.

Chris, you are pioneering the G20 track platform for us all

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by chrispy28_xd

I'm replacing my Ohlins with 2-way remote JRZs. Spring rates are similar to competition spec Supras. I'm working with Shaftworks USA to get them revalved. It's uhh not cheap, so I recommend going with a more modest setup.

What's your brake setup?

[chrispy28_xd]

OEM rotors/calipers with CSG C21/C11 pads. It's what a lot of TA A90s run I think.

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by chrispy28_xd

OEM rotors/calipers with CSG C21/C11 pads. It's what a lot of TA A90s run I think.

BBK in the plans?

[chrispy28_xd]

Nah, the braking is more than sufficient. If I ever add power (doubtful) or aero (doubtful), then I'll consider a BBK. The gains from it will be so marginal, and the cost will be as much as my suspension. I could also run into clearance issues.

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by chrispy28_xd

Nah, the braking is more than sufficient. If I ever add power (doubtful) or aero (doubtful), then I'll consider a BBK. The gains from it will be so marginal, and the cost will be as much as my suspension. I could also run into clearance issues.

Anything to help with brake cooling? I know there’s kits for the G8x and I wouldn’t think they’d be too difficult to mod for our cars, or even fabricate something to replace the existing dust shield and use tubing to connect to our OEM ducts.

[chrispy28_xd]

You can either try girodisc rotors, or experiment with a couple kits that are out there.

Specifically, speed engineering in Germany makes a kit for G8X (). The entire kit won't fit, but comparing part numbers, it looks like the brake air duct for the G20 is the same as the G87, so it's possible that their air duct adapter will fit. You can then reach out to Verus and see if you can buy their dust shield for the A90 since that will 100% fit our car (https://www.verus-engineering.com/sh...ota-supra-1956). All this assumes the hose is the same, which should be.

[peelerec]

Originally Posted by prostcfc

Anything to help with brake cooling? I know there’s kits for the G8x and I wouldn’t think they’d be too difficult to mod for our cars, or even fabricate something to replace the existing dust shield and use tubing to connect to our OEM ducts.

Your current brake setup might be what’s causing brake fade. Remind me again of your current setup. Chris and I both track at some fairly hot tracks during summer, Thunderhill and Sonoma, both of which reach 90-100 F ambient temperature. I’ve never had brake fade issue once I upgraded to motul RBF, Turner SS lines and recently CSG endurance pads.
Perhaps it’s your track that forces you to be heavy on the brakes?

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by peelerec

Your current brake setup might be what’s causing brake fade. Remind me again of your current setup. Chris and I both track at some fairly hot tracks during summer, thudnerhill and Sonoma, both of which reach 90-100 F ambient temperature. I’ve never had brake fade issue once I upgraded to motul RBF, Turner SS lines and recently CSG endurance pads.
Perhaps it’s your track that forces you to be heavy on the brakes?

I'm on OEM rotors and M Sport calipers. Endless RF-650 fluid and recently used Project Mu HC-CS pads. I didn't have noticeable brake fade or any softening in the pedal, however my front calipers went from blue to green in a single day; actually after two sessions on Sunday (four sessions on Saturday where they didn't discolor; I'm not sure if the cumulative effect of heat cycles causes the color to go, or if it can be from one outing). There are three heavy-ish braking zones from 100-120 to around 50.

I haven't inspected my brakes/swapped for daily pads yet to see if there's any ill-effects, but I don't want to have to be constantly replacing pressure seals and dust boots because they cannot handle the caliper heat. I'm also concerned about tracks like Road America that have multiple very long straights with heavy, heavy braking into 90 degree turns.

[chrispy28_xd]

I've done laguna seca a bunch of times last year and earlier this year, and that track has lots of heavy and downhill braking zones. When I was on CSG street pads, they couldn't handle the braking very well, and I think the compound degraded or something because it became noisy on the street, the rotors would get tons of deposits, and thus lots of pedal vibration. When I upgraded to CSG's sprint pads, I no longer have those issues. They're not kind to my rotors though (lots of micro cracks), but that's fine since the FCP euro strat for replacing rotors is very cost effective.

That said, my calipers have retained their blue.

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by chrispy28_xd

I've done laguna seca a bunch of times last year and earlier this year, and that track has lots of heavy and downhill braking zones. When I was on CSG street pads, they couldn't handle the braking very well, and I think the compound degraded or something because it became noisy on the street, the rotors would get tons of deposits, and thus lots of pedal vibration. When I upgraded to CSG's sprint pads, I no longer have those issues. They're not kind to my rotors though (lots of micro cracks), but that's fine since the FCP euro strat for replacing rotors is very cost effective.

That said, my calipers have retained their blue.

Ok. I know the caliper color changing was an issue with various F series cars that saw track time, and maybe BMW/Brembo changed their paint to be more high-temp resistant at some point after my model year (2020). I will say outside of a single cool down lap, I didn't do much else and I was pushing pretty much the entire time except for my warm up lap and when I was stuck in traffic waiting to get wave-bys.

[peelerec]

Originally Posted by prostcfc

I'm on OEM rotors and M Sport calipers. Endless RF-650 fluid and recently used Project Mu HC-CS pads. I didn't have noticeable brake fade or any softening in the pedal, however my front calipers went from blue to green in a single day; actually after two sessions on Sunday (four sessions on Saturday where they didn't discolor; I'm not sure if the cumulative effect of heat cycles causes the color to go, or if it can be from one outing). There are three heavy-ish braking zones from 100-120 to around 50.

I haven't inspected my brakes/swapped for daily pads yet to see if there's any ill-effects, but I don't want to have to be constantly replacing pressure seals and dust boots because they cannot handle the caliper heat. I'm also concerned about tracks like Road America that have multiple very long straights with heavy, heavy braking into 90 degree turns.

My calipers have remained blue and I don’t think it’s because I ceramic coated them. Could be the paint used on MY21+ was improved upon from the MY20. I guess you’ll have to live with the badge of honor

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by peelerec

My calipers have remained blue and I don’t think it’s because I ceramic coated them. Could be the paint used on MY21+ was improved upon from the MY20. I guess you’ll have to live with the badge of honor

As suspected, my caliper dust boots are cracked and deformed from the heat; I put a scope in there and took a look at the outsides, and they're kaput. Not sure about the insides. The pads have probably another track day left in them, so I'm going to leave it as is before I replace the boots.

I guess I need to look into brake cooling as my first priority after rebuilding. Probably will try Ti shims, cobble together a duct cooling kit and throw in an extra cool down lap with driving around the paddock for 5 minutes afterwards.

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by chrispy28_xd

You can either try girodisc rotors, or experiment with a couple kits that are out there.

Specifically, speed engineering in Germany makes a kit for G8X (). The entire kit won't fit, but comparing part numbers, it looks like the brake air duct for the G20 is the same as the G87, so it's possible that their air duct adapter will fit. You can then reach out to Verus and see if you can buy their dust shield for the A90 since that will 100% fit our car (https://www.verus-engineering.com/sh...ota-supra-1956). All this assumes the hose is the same, which should be.

As an update to this, Verus Engineering sold me the MKV Supra backing plates and 6' of tubing for ~$350. I cannot get Speed Engineering to respond regarding whether their ducts will fit the G20, and while I think they will, they're too expensive on their own (sold separately) to experiment. What I will likely do is remove the brake ducts that attach to the wheel liners, like Speed Engineering does, and just stuff the tubing into the brake ducts that attach to the front bumper trim for the time being. I'll do this before my next HPDE and share pictures.

[chrispy28_xd]

Nice - keep me posted on this. I'm getting uneven pad wear (inside vs outside) on my front driver side, so I'm curious how this goes.

[prostcfc]

Originally Posted by chrispy28_xd

Nice - keep me posted on this. I'm getting uneven pad wear (inside vs outside) on my front driver side, so I'm curious how this goes.

Will do. Both my front inside pads wear a bit more than the outside, and have since Day 1, so I suspect the cooling solution we have stock isn't effective. We'll see.