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      01-18-2024, 12:15 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greekstyle View Post
Curious if the specific frequency of the turn signals can be found and then reduced on the front left channel and maybe even center channel if needed. Not sure how this would effect some genres, but if the turn signals are for arguments sake somewhere between 305-320mhz, would reducing this range not help?
I had similar thoughts and used the UMIK-1 mic to record the frequency range of the turn signals. I found the range too broad to correct using EQ.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Greekstyle View Post
I am also seeing that the factory amp likes to boost bass on the lower volume and only increase treble on higher volume. The Hifi tweeters just sound dead to me so I will be replacing at least the front doors with Alpha one or maybe even Focal. Should I bother with center channel and rears?
I am personally satisfied with my upgrade (Match 8UP + Alpha One woofers under the seats) for now. Still amazed at how much better the stock speakers can sound with enhanced power supply + DSP. But I understand that further improvements can be made by upgrading speaker components.
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      01-18-2024, 02:19 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunnus64 View Post
I had similar thoughts and used the UMIK-1 mic to record the frequency range of the turn signals. I found the range too broad to correct using EQ.



I am personally satisfied with my upgrade (Match 8UP + Alpha One woofers under the seats) for now. Still amazed at how much better the stock speakers can sound with enhanced power supply + DSP. But I understand that further improvements can be made by upgrading speaker components.

Do you mind sharing ut tune file?
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      01-18-2024, 02:36 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunnus64 View Post
I had similar thoughts and used the UMIK-1 mic to record the frequency range of the turn signals. I found the range too broad to correct using EQ.



I am personally satisfied with my upgrade (Match 8UP + Alpha One woofers under the seats) for now. Still amazed at how much better the stock speakers can sound with enhanced power supply + DSP. But I understand that further improvements can be made by upgrading speaker components.

I agree that it does sound much better. I think part of my problem is working a full-time job, having my own business, as well as a new addition to the family making it 3. I don't have enough time to really sit there and go band by band for each output as well as diving further into the virtual processing, time alignment, input sensitivities and such. I would love to though. I'm a tech guy and a tinkerer. I am sure I can squeeze out some more from the factory speakers. I have a few days coming up where wife and kids will be away at my in-laws lake house and i'll be alone and can dedicate 3-4 hours straight to really dial in a proper tune for my X7. Still plan to change out fronts though. I'm probably gonna need to upgrade subs as well. I see Focal, Earthquake, Morel, Alpha one, Bavsound offer replacement 8" woofers. Any recommendations? Would 2ohm be a bad idea for the subs?
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      01-18-2024, 06:35 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greekstyle View Post
I agree that it does sound much better. I think part of my problem is working a full-time job, having my own business, as well as a new addition to the family making it 3. I don't have enough time to really sit there and go band by band for each output as well as diving further into the virtual processing, time alignment, input sensitivities and such. I would love to though. I'm a tech guy and a tinkerer. I am sure I can squeeze out some more from the factory speakers. I have a few days coming up where wife and kids will be away at my in-laws lake house and i'll be alone and can dedicate 3-4 hours straight to really dial in a proper tune for my X7. Still plan to change out fronts though. I'm probably gonna need to upgrade subs as well. I see Focal, Earthquake, Morel, Alpha one, Bavsound offer replacement 8" woofers. Any recommendations? Would 2ohm be a bad idea for the subs?
Running stock speakers with Alpha One (Match 8) amp and a 12 inch sub box with 1500watt amp. I am quite satisfied with the results. Maybe upgrade the door speakers and tweeter in the future, but not sure if there will be much improvement over stock. BTW the sub in the trunk makes a HUGE difference. You do sacrifice a little trunk space....
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      01-18-2024, 08:10 PM   #93
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You have pictures? There’s a guy in UK that will build a fiberglass enclosure and ship for around $200
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      01-18-2024, 09:25 PM   #94
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You have pictures? There’s a guy in UK that will build a fiberglass enclosure and ship for around $200
Saw that. A little pricey when you factor in shipping just for an enclosure.
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      01-18-2024, 10:37 PM   #95
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I tweaked my tune a bit and am much happier with the imaging and front stage width. i have attached a copy of the tune, let me know what you think. Special thanks to Thunnus64 for assisting with how to attach.
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File Type: pdf David w sub edit - Copy.afpx.pdf (3.8 KB, 46 views)
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      01-19-2024, 10:13 AM   #96
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Got to work early this morning and had a half hour to tinker around. Found something in the I/O tab on the right which shows the inputs coming from the RAM module it seems. I was using a tune received from Bimmertech as my base and it seems they reduced some frequencies on the fronts and rears. Some large cuts in the 600-800 bands and around the 3K-6K bands as well. Those were the ones I was over-compensating for in the EQ and was setting factory radio treble to 3/4 just to get some highs. It is sounding better now but makes me wonder what I'm missing out on by not changing out the speakers with something like Morel or Focal. Hope this helps some of you guys out with improving your tunes. Some time alignment is next on my list. Anyone have any pointers/tips to get a higher/wider soundstage?
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      01-19-2024, 11:34 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjbaron0817 View Post
Definitely curious is someone has a g20 code workaround the the blinker/turn signal. The volume and actual noise are both brutal on mind.
Another workaround to reduce the turn signal volume is to map the Rear L and Rear R inputs to the CENTER outputs instead of the Front L and R. Many of the G20 tunes that I've received from different sources are set up this way and I'm guessing that its to address the turn signal issue. I personally don't do this as I want to be able to use the Fader control to adjust Front/Rear balance while driving.


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Originally Posted by Catalin1337 View Post
Do you mind sharing ut tune file?
Certainly! I've posted it on Page 4 of this discussion.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Greekstyle View Post
I agree that it does sound much better. I think part of my problem is working a full-time job, having my own business, as well as a new addition to the family making it 3. I don't have enough time to really sit there and go band by band for each output as well as diving further into the virtual processing, time alignment, input sensitivities and such. I would love to though. I'm a tech guy and a tinkerer. I am sure I can squeeze out some more from the factory speakers. I have a few days coming up where wife and kids will be away at my in-laws lake house and i'll be alone and can dedicate 3-4 hours straight to really dial in a proper tune for my X7. Still plan to change out fronts though. I'm probably gonna need to upgrade subs as well. I see Focal, Earthquake, Morel, Alpha one, Bavsound offer replacement 8" woofers. Any recommendations? Would 2ohm be a bad idea for the subs?
I totally hear you! I'm in a similar situation. Consider myself a tinkerer but am hesitant in going into that rabbit hole of RTA using REW due to time/complexity/other time commitments. I haven't done any research on speaker replacements for the G20 and only picked up the Alpha One subs because they were cheap and bundled with the Bimmertech wiring harness and mounting brackets that I needed for my Match UP8 install. I like what the Alpha Ones sound like but I personally feel that they may be overpriced.

The Match 8UP specs out the SUB G and H channels at 2x160 watts @ 2 Ohms or 2x90 watts @ 4 Ohms. Both the OEM subs and the Alpha Ones are spec'd at 2 Ohms.
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      01-19-2024, 12:33 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greekstyle View Post
Anyone have any pointers/tips to get a higher/wider soundstage?
I believe that the soundstage can be changed using the delay/distance adjustments in the TIME menu. Each speaker can be given its own delay value so that the sound from all speakers will arrive at the driver's position at the same time, creating a coherent soundstage.

When I measure the distances between my head and the speaker locations and enter those into the DSP, I get a soundstage that is directly in front of me, which I particularly did not like. So when I received a couple of tunes to try from Bimmertech, I immediately noticed a change in the soundstage. It was more immersive and didn't sound like it was coming from a single point in front of me. I liked it much better.

The graphic below shows the speaker locations in relation to the driver. The whole number beneath each speaker name is the distance I measured between my head and the speaker in inches. The number below the distance is the delay that the software calculated for each distance in milliseconds. The Rear Right and the Subwoofer Right are the farthest away from so they have zero delay. The other speakers are closer to me so they are given delay values so that they arrive at my head at the same time as the Rear Right and Subwoofer Right signal. And this resulted in a soundstage directly in front of me.


The highlighted numbers are the delay values in the Bimmertech tune that created a more immersive sound. The delay for the Front L, Front R and Front Center signals have been slightly increased (thereby "pushing" out these speakers spatially). The delay of the Rear L and R and Subwoofers have been slightly reduced (pulling those signals closer to the listener). I think this is the main reason for the apparent change in soundstage.

There are other things within the tune that probably contribute, most notably the gain adjustments on each output channel but I don't have enough knowledge to get a handle on all of these different variables and am just making the best guess possible.
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      01-19-2024, 08:01 PM   #99
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I am really enjoying this thread, i was hoping when starting this topic that we would have this feedback and Tunes to try. I used the delays and distances that Thunnus posted above.

My initial thoughts:
1) the rears may be a little too pronounced now, it sounds like a slightly delayed rear surround speaker and it brings the sound to the back of my seat
2) the sound pulls to the left (drivers) for me.
3) I like the lowered delay on the under seat subwoofers and those are now more clearly heard and integrate into the sound better.

I do not have excel so cant replicate his chart, but these are my settings(distance first, delay second). I like A forward sound and a more just right of driver sound. Also I have a 12" JL ported micro sub in the trunk.

LF - 28.44 & 2.35
RF - 59.12 & .04
RL - 16.73 & 3.23
RR - 35.97 & 1.97
Lsub - 35.14 & 1.85
Rsub - 45.18 & 1.1
center - 36.25 & 1.77
line out - 59.96 & 0

Also all gain setting with exception of line out are at 0 and + .25 db for center and front right.

I am not using virtual processing

Last edited by crpediem_2; 01-19-2024 at 08:15 PM..
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      01-19-2024, 08:12 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by den110 View Post
Saw that. A little pricey when you factor in shipping just for an enclosure.
Here is a pic of my 12" sub, these JL micro subs play surprisingly deep and very clear in a 7" deep box. I choose it because i wanted to lose the least amount of trunk space. It is hooked up to a 500 watt RF prime amp with a birth sheet 650 watt spec.

I was pleasantly surprised in the under seat subs and honestly, could have probably been satisfied, but once you have had a big sub in your car there's no going back.

It really doesn't add a ton on top of the under seat subs but it does add that lowest note, impact and the happiness that big sound wave adds to the overall experience.
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      01-22-2024, 10:59 AM   #101
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Applied the timings Thunnus posted above and it does sound better than what I had and our cars are a bit different in size. I went back to the Bimmertech default tune that I was sent to examine and noticed they had the gain on the center down to -7db. I had the gain at -1db and felt the sound was to focused on that center channel. I will turn it down to say -4db and see if it makes a difference.
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      01-22-2024, 05:13 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crpediem_2 View Post
2) the sound pulls to the left (drivers) for me.
David, something that you might want to check are where your inputs E and F are outputting to. My Input E is the RIGHT subwoofer while Input F is my LEFT subwoofer, which was the opposite of my expectations and doesn't follow the pattern of the previous inputs. So from A-F, my inputs are Front L, Front R, Rear L, Rear R, Sub R, Sub L.
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      01-23-2024, 12:49 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunnus64 View Post
David, something that you might want to check are where your inputs E and F are outputting to. My Input E is the RIGHT subwoofer while Input F is my LEFT subwoofer, which was the opposite of my expectations and doesn't follow the pattern of the previous inputs. So from A-F, my inputs are Front L, Front R, Rear L, Rear R, Sub R, Sub L.
I saw this issue as well. When muting my left sub, the right would mute and vice-versa. I just swapped the timing values and all is good.
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      01-23-2024, 10:34 PM   #104
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Where did you buy the bimmertech bracket?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunnus64 View Post
Here are some photos of the installation. For reference, this is a 2024 330i with the HiFi 676 audio system.


The negative terminal for the battery is disconnected for safety.


Here is my RAM unit before any wires are disconnected.



The RAM bracket also holds the ECU for the cameras so some additional wiring harnesses need to disconnected in order to remove the RAM bracket.


The RAM unit is removed from the OEM bracket and is relocated to the Bimmertech bracket. The Match UP8 is screwed into place on the OEM RAM bracket.



I positioned the Match UP8 first. The OCD part of me really wanted the MATCH logo to be right side up but the wiring harnesses aren't long enough.


The RAM unit is then screwed into position and all of the wiring is connected. The green indicator light on the Match UP8 lit up as soon as the wiring was completed.


I fired up the audio before putting the trunk pieces back on just to verify that the amp was working and all is good. Gotta load some tunes and fiddle with the PC-Tools app but this is an amazing upgrade considering the new amp is powering the OEM speakers.

Where did you buy the bimmertech bracket?
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      01-24-2024, 05:20 PM   #105
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Quote:
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Where did you buy the bimmertech bracket?
I got lucky! I bought it from a Bimmerpost member through the classifeds. Bimmertech bracket + wiring harness + pair of Alpha One A90 under-seat woofers for a very good price!
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      01-24-2024, 07:02 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Thunnus64 View Post
I got lucky! I bought it from a Bimmerpost member through the classifeds. Bimmertech bracket + wiring harness + pair of Alpha One A90 under-seat woofers for a very good price!
That's great! I got my amp from Bimmertech and was given a bunch of brackets to try on my G22 - They were very helpful as there wasn't a bracket designed yet to fit my chassis. Maciej at Bimmertech was very helpful and was willing to work with me to design one to fit my car. Much to my surprise, the G20 bracket (shown in your pic) works in my car. The bracket, harness and some hardware provided made the install super easy.
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      01-27-2024, 11:06 PM   #107
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I went through the process today

Match up 8 dsp on hifi speakers
Bav sound speakers
Earthquake subs
Bmw m440i
1- went through and adnjsted gain to 7.8vrms
2- went through input eq adjustments for each channel
3- set up time alignment with rules to confirm
4- went and used tune eq for each channel


Sound output it great, but im tempted to upgrade from bavsound to something else. The speakers dont see to be perform as well as I would like
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      02-04-2024, 12:29 PM   #108
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I installed the MATCH UP 8DSP but the ASD (Active Sound Design), but the volume of the turn signals and other sounds make the driving so unpleasant. I tried to reduce the gain but the overall music sound then is too poor.

My ASD is deactivated with Bimmercode, but it is still noticeable.

I heard that Bimmertech sent to some of you new setups that fits this problem but I can't contact them as I bought the Audiotec version, and my Audiotec dealer is unable to solve the problem.

If any of you can send me or share some sound setups I'll appreciate it!

My car is a 2020 G21 (Touring) M340i with the HIFI package and the integrated RAM module.

Audiotec Fisher don't have any sound setup for this model in their web page.

THANKS!!!!

Last edited by oscarm340bcn; 02-05-2024 at 02:41 AM..
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      02-05-2024, 12:25 PM   #109
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Use the G20 sound setup in the Audiotec-Fisher website, adjust to taste.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarm340bcn View Post
I installed the MATCH UP 8DSP but the ASD (Active Sound Design), but the volume of the turn signals and other sounds make the driving so unpleasant. I tried to reduce the gain but the overall music sound then is too poor.

My ASD is deactivated with Bimmercode, but it is still noticeable.

I heard that Bimmertech sent to some of you new setups that fits this problem but I can't contact them as I bought the Audiotec version, and my Audiotec dealer is unable to solve the problem.

If any of you can send me or share some sound setups I'll appreciate it!

My car is a 2020 G21 (Touring) M340i with the HIFI package and the integrated RAM module.

Audiotec Fisher don't have any sound setup for this model in their web page.

THANKS!!!!
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      02-11-2024, 11:44 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Use the G20 sound setup in the Audiotec-Fisher website, adjust to taste.
If I'm not wrong, there's not G20 or G20 sound setup for the MATCH UP 8DSP in the Audiotec Fisher website, and the UP 7DSP don't work with my system, maybe due to the integrated RAM.

Finally the team from BimmerTech helped me sending a sound setup (very kind from them as I did not buy it from them), and I was able also to totally disconnect the ASD (using the "activation code" option), so now the system works pretty well and I have a good basis to adjustement.
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