[FaRKle!]

So I had a new G20 330i for a bit the other day and decided to make a DIY guide on how to change the springs/shocks on this latest generation platform (including all torque specs as I always do). In general, the suspension layout and process are VERY similar to the F2x/F3x generation, and the methods I used are the same as I do for F2x/F3x xDrive cars. Hope this helps!

Originally Posted by Index

0:00 Intro
0:28 Ride height pre-measurements
0:57 Under the hood work before raising the car
2:26 Jack points and raising the car
3:13 Removing the wheels
3:35 Stock bump stop travel
4:57 Front wheel well hardware disassembly
6:01 Front strut removal
8:07 Front strut disassembly
8:42 Front strut reassembly
10:12 Front strut installation
11:53 Front wheel well hardware reassembly
12:50 Rear wheel well hardware disassembly
13:27 Rear camber arm overview
14:38 Rear damper removal
15:05 Rear damper disassembly
15:56 Rear damper reassembly
16:33 Rear spring removal
17:14 Rear spring installation
17:28 Rear damper installation
18:24 Rear camber arm reassembly/fastening
21:03 Rear wheel well hardware reassembly
21:35 Putting the wheels back on
21:48 Lowering the car
21:54 Reassembling things under the hood
22:56 Torquing the wheel bolts

Some other things of note:
If you're a quickjack user, pay close attention to the raising the car section at 2:26. I'm pretty disappointed BMW chose to make their jack points so far apart!

F2x/F3x springs look like they fit the mounts of G2x, but it also looks like G2x uses longer springs in general, so I'd hold off on trying to use F2x/F3x springs to lower the car for now, plus we don't know the G20 spring rates.

As usual, damper travel before bump stop engagement is important to understand before lowering your car. For this base suspension car, the front doesn't have much travel at all, but the rear has a good amount.

I was actually quite surprised and impressed with the base suspension on this G20. I liked it better than the M340i's adaptive suspension in sport mode at the UDE autocross. BMW did a good job of firming up damping without making things harsh IMO.

[VipinLJ]

Somewhere in the beginning you say it’s an easy job (or something very similar) If that is easy for you, I wonder what easy to me is like for you!!! My “expertise” is limited to removing the plastic cover under the hood and that’s it.

Very impressive!

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by VipinLJ

Somewhere in the beginning you say it’s an easy job (or something very similar) If that is easy for you, I wonder what easy to me is like for you!!! My “expertise” is limited to removing the plastic cover under the hood and that’s it.

Very impressive!

Haha, thanks. I believe I said "We'll see if they made some things easier than the F30." which thankfully they have, such as making removal of the strut like F30 xDrive instead of F30 RWD where you have to protect your fender rotating the assembly out.

Believe it or not, but before I got my F31, I hadn't so much as changed my own oil.


kpgray on the F30 forums suggested and kindly made a "checklist" for those more detail oriented for this job. His list is below:

Sockets:
□ 1/2" and 3/8" Ratchet/s
□ Breaker Bar/s
□ 1/2" and 3/8" Extensions
□ 8 MM Standard
□ 10 MM Standard
□ 16 MM
□ 16 MM-Pass Through & Pass Through Extension
□ 17 MM
□ 18 MM
□ 18 MM Pass Through
□ 21 MM

Ratcheting Wrenches:
□ 16 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut
□ 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut
□ 3/4" For Pass Through Sockets

Torx Center-hold:
□ T30 Long (for 16 MM Pass Through Socket above)

E-Torx Socket:
□ E12
□ E20

Hex Allen Wrench:
□ 5 MM (with 16 MM Pass Through Socket above)
□ 6 MM (with 18 MM Pass Through Socket above)

Special Tools:
□ Outside Spring Compressor
□ 1/2" and 3/8" Torque Wrench/s for ranges 10-150 lbs
□ Knuckle Spreader (to open strut clamp) (1 required **ESC Tuning # 2652181)
□ Crows Foot for Pass Through Sockets (I used 19mm or 3/4", optional due to your personal tools usage)
□ Trim Tool for Front Strut Rubber Cover Expand Rivet Removal
□ Floor Jack
□ Jack Stands

[oln08]

Thanks for the video and writeup! This will really help me a lot when I change my G20s suspension to BC Coils.

Few questions though:
1. Do you think lowering the front shocks without removing top hat work for G20? Didn't have to remove the top hat of my F30 when i replaced my springs. I just supported the brake disc with a jack, removed the strut nut from the engine bay and slowly lower the entire assembly down, then pulled the springs out. This method works for my M2 also.

2. I tried to find all the torque specs for the bolts and nuts but newtis.info still doesn't have most of the torque specs listed on the website, I initially decided to use the torque specs of the F30 for the G20. If you don't mind sharing where you found the torque for all the bolts and nuts? or are you also using the F30's?

3. Do you have any experience with BC coils? Planning to get this for the G20 as daily driver.

Thanks!

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by oln08

Thanks for the video and writeup! This will really help me a lot when I change my G20s suspension to BC Coils.

Few questions though:
1. Do you think lowering the front shocks without removing top hat work for G20? Didn't have to remove the top hat of my F30 when i replaced my springs. I just supported the brake disc with a jack, removed the strut nut from the engine bay and slowly lower the entire assembly down, then pulled the springs out. This method works for my M2 also.

2. I tried to find all the torque specs for the bolts and nuts but newtis.info still doesn't have most of the torque specs listed on the website, I initially decided to use the torque specs of the F30 for the G20. If you don't mind sharing where you found the torque for all the bolts and nuts? or are you also using the F30's?

3. Do you have any experience with BC coils? Planning to get this for the G20 as daily driver.

Thanks!

1) That could potentially work if your model has short springs. The springs on this 330i base suspension were really long. That method didn't work on all F3x vehicles, I tried it on my F31 xDrive.

2) NewTIS is still missing a lot. For the items NewTIS didn't cover I looked at the bolt diameters and thread pitches for G20 and compared it to F2x/F3x, and while the PNs were different (due to minor differences in the bolts, like the length) the thread pitches and the nuts were the same, so the same torque spec could be used.

3) I don't have any first hand experience with BC, but everything I've seen suggests they're a lower quality part. Good for making things "feel stiff" but not the best for longevity or creating a smooth, coherent, and controlled ride. Also, the spring rates they usually suggest don't have flat ride frequencies, which the OE suspension does, and helps the car settle faster to create a smoother ride.

[oln08]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

1) That could potentially work if your model has short springs. The springs on this 330i base suspension were really long. That method didn't work on all F3x vehicles, I tried it on my F31 xDrive.

2) NewTIS is still missing a lot. For the items NewTIS didn't cover I looked at the bolt diameters and thread pitches for G20 and compared it to F2x/F3x, and while the PNs were different (due to minor differences in the bolts, like the length) the thread pitches and the nuts were the same, so the same torque spec could be used.

3) I don't have any first hand experience with BC, but everything I've seen suggests they're a lower quality part. Good for making things "feel stiff" but not the best for longevity or creating a smooth, coherent, and controlled ride. Also, the spring rates they usually suggest don't have flat ride frequencies, which the OE suspension does, and helps the car settle faster to create a smoother ride.

Thanks for the info.

I may just go ahead and try my luck with BC. I really dont want to use springs anymore to lower my car, been doing it since my JDM days.
Although eibach springs isnt too bad with F30, still have it till now for about 5 years already. I just dont like the occasional bounce at high speed.

The G20 is a daily, so hopefully I will find the right rebound with BC's 30 click adjustable. This car needs to be lowered so bad but cant justify buying more expensive coilover.

[pdxdbo]

Anyone have advice for disengaging the bottom of the strut from the knuckle? I removed the knuckle bolt and opened the knuckle using a spreader and was able to slide the knuckle about 3in down the strut body but couldn't get get it far enough down to angle the strut and free it from the knuckle.

[Chubbiejones]

Originally Posted by pdxdbo

Anyone have advice for disengaging the bottom of the strut from the knuckle? I removed the knuckle bolt and opened the knuckle using a spreader and was able to slide the knuckle about 3in down the strut body but couldn't get get it far enough down to angle the strut and free it from the knuckle.

I encountered the same issue on the drivers side when installing a set of coilovers. To save my sanity and time, I ended up removing the entire hub carrier from the vehicle.

[pdxdbo]

Originally Posted by Chubbiejones

I encountered the same issue on the drivers side when installing a set of coilovers. To save my sanity and time, I ended up removing the entire hub carrier from the vehicle.

Yeah it was the driver side giving me the trouble, someone else suggested removing the whole assembly as well. May give that a shot.

[Chubbiejones]

Originally Posted by pdxdbo

Yeah it was the driver side giving me the trouble, someone else suggested removing the whole assembly as well. May give that a shot.

To be honest, the removal only adds a few additional minutes to the entire process. I spent more time trying to determine a solution with the assembly in place than just removing the entire assembly from the vehicle.

[Rural Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by Chubbiejones

To be honest, the removal only adds a few additional minutes to the entire process. I spent more time trying to determine a solution with the assembly in place than just removing the entire assembly from the vehicle.

Trying to install Dinan springs on the front of my 2019 330i. What is the procedure for removing the front hub assembly?

[Chubbiejones]

Originally Posted by Rural Enthusiast

Trying to install Dinan springs on the front of my 2019 330i. What is the procedure for removing the front hub assembly?

All documentation you require is listed within the below thread - ensure you are utilizing a web browser to view the thread as viewing via the app will not allow you to view.

Ohlins R/T Coilovers with Swift Springs - Installation & Review https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1936802

[jacky43211]

For some reason, both of my front struts are stuck to the knuckle. We tried using pb blaster, air hammer, hammer, and body weight. The strut didn't move a bit at all. We followed this and kies video. I guess no lowering springs for my g20.

[Chubbiejones]

Originally Posted by jacky43211

For some reason, both of my front struts are stuck to the knuckle. We tried using pb blaster, air hammer, hammer, and body weight. The strut didn't move a bit at all. We followed this and kies video. I guess no lowering springs for my g20.

Had the same issue on the drivers side of my car. You will have to remove the entire assembly from the vehicle in order to have enough room and force to separate the strut from the hub assembly.

[Rural Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by Chubbiejones

All documentation you require is listed within the below thread - ensure you are utilizing a web browser to view the thread as viewing via the app will not allow you to view.

Thanks for your reply. I do not see the "below thread". I am using a Firefox for my browser. Thanks again!

[Chubbiejones]

Originally Posted by Rural Enthusiast

Thanks for your reply. I do not see the "below thread". I am using a Firefox for my browser. Thanks again!

Ohlins R/T Coilovers with Swift Springs - Installation & Review https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1936802

[Rural Enthusiast]

Thank you!

[Chubbiejones]

Originally Posted by Rural Enthusiast

Thank you!

Anytime! Good luck with the installation; any additional questions just let us know

[VINCER0]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

So I had a new G20 330i for a bit the other day and decided to make a DIY guide on how to change the springs/shocks on this latest generation platform (including all torque specs as I always do). In general, the suspension layout and process are VERY similar to the F2x/F3x generation, and the methods I used are the same as I do for F2x/F3x xDrive cars. Hope this helps!

Some other things of note:
If you're a quickjack user, pay close attention to the raising the car section at 2:26. I'm pretty disappointed BMW chose to make their jack points so far apart!

F2x/F3x springs look like they fit the mounts of G2x, but it also looks like G2x uses longer springs in general, so I'd hold off on trying to use F2x/F3x springs to lower the car for now, plus we don't know the G20 spring rates.

As usual, damper travel before bump stop engagement is important to understand before lowering your car. For this base suspension car, the front doesn't have much travel at all, but the rear has a good amount.

I was actually quite surprised and impressed with the base suspension on this G20. I liked it better than the M340i's adaptive suspension in sport mode at the UDE autocross. BMW did a good job of firming up damping without making things harsh IMO.

Wow you're extremely talented (on par with Papadakis and Kies) and what a super informative and helpful video! I subscribed! I really appreciated all of the guidance on the specific tools used and the links to them. 👍👍