[Technic]

Originally Posted by Marc R

How does one add a custom sub in the trunk togehter with Match 10 DSP?

The Match UP 10DSP has RCA out for sub. Download user manual for more details.

[Marc R]

Originally Posted by Technic

The Match UP 10DSP has RCA out for sub. Download user manual for more details.

Thanks, but this was all i needed to know.

[kapa1122]

Helps if I plug the harness in to the booster and not the ram...lol. This definitely satisfies the bass for me, no need for a big trunk sub that takes up space.

Had some leftover plywood and ordered some speaker box felt from ebay and mounted the amp off the rear deck.

[Rodriguezw92]

Originally Posted by kapa1122

Helps if I plug the harness in to the booster and not the ram...lol. This definitely satisfies the bass for me, no need for a big trunk sub that takes up space.

Had some leftover plywood and ordered some speaker box felt from ebay and mounted the amp off the rear deck.

Are you only running the sound stream RS2.1200 amp? I have the match 10 dsp and currently going through the tunning process of the amp my original goal was to achieve a deeper base but don’t if it will be achievable with the match 10.

[kapa1122]

Originally Posted by Rodriguezw92

Are you only running the sound stream RS2.1200 amp? I have the match 10 dsp and currently going through the tunning process of the amp my original goal was to achieve a deeper base but don’t if it will be achievable with the match 10.

Yeah I'm just running the RS2.1200 and 2x sws-8xi, everything else is stock hk system for now. I can't talk much about the match 10 since I have no experience with it. Too bad you're far away, I'd let you listen to it haha

[Rodriguezw92]

Originally Posted by Technic

We suggest powering the OEM woofers with a Soundstream Reserve RS2.1200 2-ch amp ($150 at Crutchfield), with a Wavtech Link2 LOC ($70 at Crutchfield) for a low cost bass upgrade for a HK system. The Bass Boost feature of this amp can get a deeper and louder bass from the OEM woofers without the need of replacing them.

If you are not satisfied with the extra bass of this aftermarket amp setup then replace the OEM woofers with SWS-8Xi and the Soundstream amp.

I’m runing the match 10 amp with 1.9 HK harness while the overall sounds is a lot better but I didn’t achieve the punchie base I was looking for would I be able to run the sound stream rs1200 for the underneath subs along with the match 10 if so what would I need?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Rodriguezw92

I’m runing the match 10 amp with 1.9 HK harness while the overall sounds is a lot better but I didn’t achieve the punchie base I was looking for would I be able to run the sound stream rs1200 for the underneath subs along with the match 10 if so what would I need?

Are those the OEM woofers?

[Rodriguezw92]

Originally Posted by Technic

Are those the OEM woofers?

I replaced the the oem subwoofers with bavsoud under seat subwoofers.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Rodriguezw92

I replaced the the oem subwoofers with bavsoud under seat subwoofers.

Are they 8, 4 or 2ohms?

[Rodriguezw92]

Originally Posted by Technic

Are they 8, 4 or 2ohms?

They are 8 ohms.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Rodriguezw92

They are 8 ohms.

Post screenshots of your DSP inputs, and EQ screens of each channel, please

[Rodriguezw92]

Originally Posted by Technic

Post screenshots of your DSP inputs, and EQ screens of each channel, please

Here are the screen shots I appreciate the help.

[Technic]

Need the inputs screen snapshot, please.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Rodriguezw92

Here are the screen shots I appreciate the help.

Sample setup, Driver-center tune - adjust to taste:

Out A/B = Front components (left/right front door tweeter/mid):
- Hight pass frequency : 150Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -18dB/Oct
- Distance : 36 inches (left), 60 inches (right)
- Output level : +2dB

Out C/D = Rear components (left/right rear door tweeter/mid):
- Hight pass frequency : 150Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -18dB/Oct
- Distance : 24 inches (left), 65 inches (right)
- Output level : 0dB

Out E/F = Rear surround components (left/right shelf tweeter/mid):
- Hight pass frequency : 150Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -18dB/Oct
- Distance : 70 inches (left), 80 inches (right)
- Output level : 0dB

Out G = Center component (dash tweeter/mid):
- Hight pass frequency : 200 Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -24dB/Oct
- Distance : 48 inches
- Output level : +2.5dB

Out I/J = Under seat woofers (left/right):
- Hight pass frequency : 30Hz
- Low pass frequency : 160Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -24dB/Oct (HP) and -18dB/Oct (LP)
- Distance : 0 inches
- Output level : +4dB

[Rodriguezw92]

Originally Posted by Technic

Need the inputs screen snapshot, please.

Is this the correct one?

[Rodriguezw92]

Originally Posted by Technic

Sample setup, Driver-center tune - adjust to taste:

Out A/B = Front components (left/right front door tweeter/mid):
- Hight pass frequency : 150Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -18dB/Oct
- Distance : 36 inches (left), 60 inches (right)
- Output level : +2dB

Out C/D = Rear components (left/right rear door tweeter/mid):
- Hight pass frequency : 150Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -18dB/Oct
- Distance : 24 inches (left), 65 inches (right)
- Output level : 0dB

Out E/F = Rear surround components (left/right shelf tweeter/mid):
- Hight pass frequency : 150Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -18dB/Oct
- Distance : 70 inches (left), 80 inches (right)
- Output level : 0dB

Out G = Center component (dash tweeter/mid):
- Hight pass frequency : 200 Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -24dB/Oct
- Distance : 48 inches
- Output level : +2.5dB

Out I/J = Under seat woofers (left/right):
- Hight pass frequency : 30Hz
- Low pass frequency : 160Hz
- Characteristic : Chebyshev
- Slope : -24dB/Oct (HP) and -18dB/Oct (LP)
- Distance : 0 inches
- Output level : +4dB

Thank you so much I’ll try this out

[Technic]

Input setup:

• Input A = Front Door Left + Woofer Left = Front L Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer L (50%) = Virtual A
• Input B = Front Door Right + Woofer Right = Front R Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer R (50%) = Virtual B
• Input C = Rear Door Left + Woofer Left = Rear L Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer L (50%) = Virtual C
• Input D = Rear Door Right + Woofer Right = Rear R Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer R (50%) = Virtual D
• Input E = Rear Shelf Left + Woofer Left = Surround L Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer L (50%) = Virtual E
• Input F = Rear Shelf Right + Woofer Right = Surround R Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer R (50%) = Virtual F
• Input G = Front Door Left + Rear Door Left + Woofer Left = Front L (33%) + Rear L Full (33%) + Front Subwoofer L (33%) = Virtual I
• Input H = Front Door Left + Rear Door Right + Woofer Right = Front R Full (33%) + Rear R Full (33%) + Front Subwoofer R (33%) = Virtual J
• Input I = Center = AUX L = Virtual G

Please read labels in these blue wires and post what is written on them:

[Rodriguezw92]

Originally Posted by Technic

Input setup:


Input A = Front Door Left + Woofer Left = Front L Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer L (50%) = Virtual A
Input B = Front Door Right + Woofer Right = Front R Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer R (50%) = Virtual B
Input C = Rear Door Left + Woofer Left = Rear L Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer L (50%) = Virtual C
Input D = Rear Door Right + Woofer Right = Rear R Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer R (50%) = Virtual D
Input E = Rear Shelf Left + Woofer Left = Surround L Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer L (50%) = Virtual E
Input F = Rear Shelf Right + Woofer Right = Surround R Full (50%) + Front Subwoofer R (50%) = Virtual F
Input G = Front Door Left + Rear Door Left + Woofer Left = Front L (33%) + Rear L Full (33%) + Front Subwoofer L (33%) = Virtual I
Input H = Front Door Left + Rear Door Right + Woofer Right = Front R Full (33%) + Rear R Full (33%) + Front Subwoofer R (33%) = Virtual J
Input I = Center = Front Center Full = Virtual G


Please read labels in these blue wires and post what is written on them:

It reads center in +

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Rodriguezw92

It reads center in +

Center = AUX L = Virtual G = Amp Output G

[Rodriguezw92]

Originally Posted by Technic

Center = AUX L = Virtual G = Amp Output G

I Turly appreciate all you’re help the sound overall definitely sounds better but I just feel like the base is no where near what I had in my F80 with HK, would you maybe recommend just runing the AudioControl ACM-2.300 just for the subs and maybe taking out the match 10 amp?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Rodriguezw92

I Turly appreciate all you’re help the sound overall definitely sounds better but I just feel like the base is no where near what I had in my F80 with HK, would you maybe recommend just runing the AudioControl ACM-2.300 just for the subs and maybe taking out the match 10 amp?

I don't think that you understand how to set and tune a DSP. Good luck.

[Marc R]

Everybody has their own taste on how things should sound, therefore it is much better to just take the basic settings and fiddle around until you have a sound that you like.

Thats not as easy as it sounds

I always like to work from the front to the back, each separate speaker at a time and when I am satisfied with one speaker then mute it and move on to the next.

When all speakers are done then its time to join all channels and make them work together.

With the G20 the weak point for me are the 2 underseat subs, they sound horrible and get distorted very easy.... but a good external sub will solve that.